Sure you planted Bermuda? In the first pic on the bottom where I can see closely is not Bermuda grass.

What did the seed look like? What variety?

It does look super long for bermuda seed at 3 weeks old.

I have to agree. Doesn't look like Bermuda to me. Looks too clumpy, like a cool season grass.

The stuff at the bottom of the first pic looks a lot like crabgrass to me.

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I'll buy it being bermuda with a bunch of weeds that came up too. Notice in the thrid picture you can see the clumps of weeds. The bermuda is not coming in well yet but I can pick it out in what looks like the outter bottom of the third picture. Bermuda takes 3 weeks just to germinate. My concern is the competion with the weeds that have a huge head start on the bermuda. I would think in a few weeks you should start to feed it hard with N. Hopefully you can encourage the bermuda to start to grow and then hope your weeds are summer annual weeds. Good luck but I would put anymore into seeding bermuda at this point. Try mowing around 2 inches this season twice a week as soon as it gets to 2 1/2 inches. The bermuda that is. If you can next season your going to want to be down to 1 inch to help the bermuda fill in even more.

Yes, I am sure it is Bermuda seed. This is a very large area that was seeded. Here is a pic of weed that was in the 1st picture. What looked tall in the 1st one. Also another pic of the grass from straight down.

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You need about 20-30 trees in that size of backyard mainly along the fence for privacy! 5 gallon container trees are pretty cheap and will quickly establish and start growing next year if planted and mulched properly.

OK the last pictures are Bermuda.

Get to mowing it right away. You can reseed if you want, but not nessecary. Go ahead and start fertilizing every 30 days up til about 30-days before your fisrt frost date. Be patient, you are really shooting for a yard next year.

You will want to use pre-emergence in both fall and next spring to keep weeds in check. You will also need post emergence next late spring. By next Summer you should have a full lawn.

Yes. I know I am getting ready for a lawn next year. What type of fertilizer should I put down?

something w/ plenty of N like 30-4-10. The recomendation from above is for an established lawn. A newley seeded lawn needs 1 1/2 pounds of N a month in two applications. Then a slow release a month before the first frost. I know because I did a grow-in of a golf course.

Well I have a different spin. I assume you used a starter fertilizer, if that is true you are done with balanced fertilizers for this year. I would suggest a straight nitrogen urea 75% slow release and 25% fast release. If you have a LESCO around obtain product code 000777 (29-0-0 75PPCSU) applied every 30-days up to 30-days before the first frost.

You can make an argument to use a balanced type either in the spring or fall. For now you have already done it.

My other concern would be what type of Bermuda you choose being in the TX Panhandle. Up around Dalhart and north winters can get quite extreme, so you would really need a very good cold tolerant variety like Yuma.

WOW, that looks totally different than my princess coming in. I do recognize that type of bermuda because it looks identical to my parents lawn in Atlanta. It's just, now that I can compare the two (that strain vs. mine) they look like totally different grasses.

My grass is also 3 weeks old, that's why it is so suprising to me comparing the two.

30-4-10 is not a balanced fertilizer. 20-20-20 is. Notice the difference if you have a scale the scale won't move on a 20-20-20 but a 30-4-10 the scale is going to tip towards the 30. The amount of phosporus I mentioned is minimal but still needed for seedlings. The potassium is good for stress prevention going into the summer and eventually into the fall. I'm curious why you'd use a 75% slow release fertilizer on a newley seeded lawn. What the seedlings need is fertilizer now. If a slow release would have been down 6 weeks ago then ok fine but it needs food now.

Assuming the OP used a starter fertilizer, then there is more than adequate amounts of Phosphorous and Potassium to carry the grass over until next spring or fall. These two elements are very stable in soils and used very sparingly by developing and mature plants. Adding more IMO adds no additional value. Knowing the Texas panhandle has an abundance of these two elements naturally indicates no Phosphorous or Potassium should really ever be needed.

Using a 75% slow release means 25% is fast release. The fast release will feed the grass now and for the next few days, then the slow release will take over and constantly feed for the next 4 to 6 weeks. Using 100% fast release like Ammonia Nitrate will give it a quick boost of energy, and then peters out after a week or two. With the abundance of rain TX is receiving even shortens that time frame. Slow release urea just makes since in just about all situations as it is very economical, efficient, and supplies a constant steady stream of food.

You can certainly use a 100% fast release like Ammonia Nitrate, but if used should be applied at ½ or ¼ application rates applied bi-weekly or weekly respectively. However not very efficient IMO.

I see the points your making. It's just an option to spoon feed as it's called just like you say 1/4 of a pound every two weeks is great but I guess how much time is available to put into will determine this. I do also realize how P is in the soil. Without getting into a soil biology lesson almost all of the P in the soil is unavailable for plant uptake. Therefore the use of a P fertilizer would be needed to allow the plant to uptake the P. Also 4% P in a 50 pound bag is what 2 pounds total. If the bag says it covers 5000 sq feet and you go by pounds per 1000 then you are only putting down around .4 pounds of P per 1000. The potassium levels in Texas would depend on how heavy your soils are but lots of rain that you refer to will flush the system. I like to continue the use of P and K products the first season to make the grass tough and allow for good root growth which N doesn't give you. I really don't like to preach too much P because after the first season I'd rather not use any at all. I'll go with a 20-0-10 or something similar type fertilizer unless a soil test shows you need P that will only benefit germinating weeds.

Back to one of the OP's questions...Do I need to re-seed these areas?

If it were me I would re-seed. Bermuda will spread to fill those areas, but some of those areas shown in the overhead pictures are huge! I don't think those areas will be covered by the end of the season if you don't put down some more seed. It's up to you; it will EVENTUALLY fill in, just depends how patient you are....

Get some UMAXX (real slow release) or UFLEXX (slow release). I believe both are 47-0-0, but one has a higher % of slow release than the other.

UMAXX?

I went ahead and re-seeded the large areas. Mainly because when I called the lawn place to ask about more seed they had a recently busted bag of the same seed I had bought 3 weeks prior. They gave me 12 lbs for free. I loosened the soil and added more seed. I also mowed it for the 1st time which made a huge difference when looking at the lawn.

eyoung, curious what variety?

That's just common Bermuda I guess. I laid Tifway II in the front.

mscottw2, could you post some pictures of your Princess 77 seedlings?

Oh I've been dying to post pictures for about a week now but my digital camera bit the dust about a month ago. So, after getting the Crutchfield magazine earlier this week I'm really itchin'. I'm trying to talk my wife into upgrading to a camcorder with a built-in hard drive. Takes pictures too.

TW, here you go. Also has info abour UFLEXX (my preference).

Here is a link that might be useful: UMAXX

txweed, i'd be curious to get your take on this product for bermuda lawns if you get a chance to read up on it.

heelsfan, how long have you been using this product and on what type of grass???

eyoung, don't mean to hijack this posting from you just had a couple of question in regards to this product in relation to lesco's products. thanks

AJ, I've been using UMAXX for about 2 months on my Bermuda Tif-419. My first application was around June 1. I just applied the 2nd application Saturday. So far I can't tell a real difference between this and the LESCO product I was using (product 000777,39-0-0). Both come in 50lb bags. UMAXX was $27 and LESCO is $37. I need 8.5 lbs of UMAXX product to fertilize my 4000 sq ft yard. That is $4.59 per fertilization. I need 10.25 lbs of LESCO fertilizer per application for a rate of $7.58 per application.

The cost is the only real difference so far and that isn't a whole lot.

AJ, I do not have any experience with UMAXX, all I know is claims I have read in the past 30-minutes.

My first thought when I read Slow Release Urea 46-0-0; is that is impossible, but after reading the MSDS I an assured it is 46-0-0 as this is government registered information. Looks to be as safe as Urea, almost no warnings, just a minor irritant to eyes, lungs, and skin. No known chronic effects to exposure. Source is synthetic organic same as urea. So it appears to be evirometally friendly.

If the product does half of what it claims, I would be impressed, but I am a skeptic. What I cannot find is any independent case study to back any of the manufacture claims up. Not saying they are not true, just cannot verify.

My problems and/or blank spots.

 Where to get it? Looks like custom order from TN only, significantly adding to a mystery cost.

 Does it really last 12 to 16 weeks, and if so will it release enough fast enough for aggressive varieties of Bermuda grass such as Tifsport, Tifeagle, etc. If it does the job, and is competitively priced to traditional slow release urea products, then great.

 Since it is an incomplete fertilizer, and I do not see the manufacture offering a complete fertilizer would mean you still need a traditional complete product once in the spring or fall.

Put it too you this way. If a rep came to my farm or landscape business, gives me a couple hundred pounds for a sample to try, I would give it an college try. If it does what it says and competitive pricing, I would give it a nod.

Last comment is the manufacture states the product or technology has been used in UK since the 60's. So if someone can point me to where to verify and independent studies i would appreciate it.

Yeah. Where do you get it?

I'm not taking sides on this Umaxx stuff but I wanted to see what kind of studies have been done on this stuff. Here's a link.

It didn't post last time let's try again.

Here is a link that might be useful: umaxx 46-0-0

Stephen thanks for the link. Cannot draw any other conclusion other than what the manufacture stated in the website that it performs as well as urea on cool season grasses grown in Canada.

Would be great if TAMU or OSU did a study to see how it performs in the south on warm season grasses.

I actually found about this stuff by Googling, but figured I would continue using the LESCO product. I went into a local Farm & Feed Store and asked what kind of slow release Urea they had. The guy brought out a bag of UMAXX so I figured I'd give it a try, especially for only $27.

heelsfan, thank you for informing me of the product. I called the office and the company is sending out a rep. Short story is they are going to give me 250-pounds to try in my (really mu Son's) lnandscaping biz. Let you now by season's end what I think, just remind me as I am forgetful folks.