Reread the Bermuda Bible. It has the details for fertilizer, when, how much, and how often. It also covers watering and mowing height and frequency. After you fertilize all you have to do is wash the fertilizer off the grass blades and down into the soil. That should be enough water to mostly dissolve the fertilizer. What you don't want to do is let the dry fertilizer sit on the grass until the following day. Problems come right away when dew only partially dissolves the fertilizer and burns the grass blades and roots. I've never seen the Lesco fertilizers recommended in the BB at Lowe's or HD in San Antonio. Austin may be different. Tractor Supply supposedly carries the exact products (never been there). They are all around Austin. Call first. If you want to try to get the same results with organics, try applying corn GLUTEN meal at a rate of 30 pounds per 1,000 square feet every month. The first time I would apply at 10 pounds. Second month at 20 and bump it up to 30 for the third app. Why? Because that will build your soil microbe population and eliminate some of the sour smell of corn decomposition. If you dumped all 30 pounds the first time you may regret it. That smell is to be avoided because it is wasting the valuable nitrogen in the corn gluten meal. Better to bring up the microbes to handle it and avoid the waste.

I used a balanced fertilizer on the bermuda when it started greening up this spring. You stated not to use a balanced fertilizer for the last fertilization if used a balanced in the spring. Just wondering what the reason for that. What would you suggest for the last fertilization. It is fairly simple; Phosphorous and Potassium are used very sparingly by plants and relatively stable in the soil. Whereas Nitrogen is heavily used by plants and freely moves, or purges from the soil via water movement. A 1-time application per year is all that is necessary with respect to Phosphorous and Potassium. In fact in a lot of areas P and K are never needed. Using a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio balanced fertilizer once per year is a generic recommendation in lieu of a soil test. 3-1-2 is what is known as Mother NatureÂs natural balance. So if you want to know exactly what your soil test needs, only your soil dresser knows for sure via a test. If you have a soil test done, the lab will give you the exact amount of P and K needed in one application for the year. So since you applied a balanced fertilizer in the spring, all you need to do is give a final Nitrogen only application about 45 days before you expect your first frost. At this time you can have a soil test done, and see what you really need next spring, or if you react quickly and get the test results quickly you can add what is recommended this year and be done with it until next Fall. So I stand by what I say; only one balanced application per year. DoesnÂt matter the grass type.

It's listed right on the product page: http://www.milorganite.com/using-milorganite/products Guaranteed Analysis (label): 5.0% Total Nitrogen (N) = *3% Water Insoluble (slow-release) N + 2% Water Soluble N That's 40% water soluble N. My guess is urea, it's cheap, but it could be something else. Here's the kicker: - A 36# bag of Milorganite contains 1.8# of N, 0.72 of which is WSN and 1.08 of which is organic/WIN. - Urea costs about $0.50/1# N , so the amount of WSN in a bag of Milorganite is worth about $0.36. - The bag also contains 1.44 lbs of P, which is worth about $0.50 as TSP and 1# of Fe worth about $1 in the form of Ferrous Sulfate. - A bag of Milorganite costs about $12 at big box stores, regular price. Sometimes it goes on sale for $6. If we subtract the value of the WSN, P and Fe, that means that the ~ one pound of organic N in the bag costs $10 ($5 on sale), or 20x (10x on sale) more than a pound of WSN derived from urea. If I wanted to go organic, I would go with alfalfa pellets - I haven't done the math but since it's all organic N, the cost per pound of organic N should be lower. And it's not sewer sludge, I think alfalfa would more closely mimic the natural cycle and bacterial/fungal population of a pasture.

You can rent a water fillable roller, possibly even at Home Depot. They are very heavy even before adding water. You likely don't have to add water, especially since no tilling was involved. That is one thing the installer did right (not tilling). The water should be just barely enough to moisten the soil under the sod. If the soil feels soft or squishy, that's way too much water. Check it with a screwdriver, not your feet. You don't want to create holes by walking on it. The screwdriver should go in easily through the sod and then get hard to push in. That will change later on, but for now you just need the surface to be moist so the roots of the sod knit into the underlying soil. Search this forum for "deep and infrequent" to find my (overworked) advice about watering. To address your initial concern, I believe the dead looking grass is dormant and will revive with the daily water. Bermuda is insanely hard to kill, but relatively easy to make dormant. You asked about fertilizer. 419 can take monthly fertilizer with a high N, fast release like uncoated urea (48-0-0). But you don't have to use the super high N ferts or do it every 4 weeks. The point is it is hard to hurt bermuda with fertilizer. Ammonium sulfate is low cost and will provide some minimal amount of acidification to your alkaline soil. AS will also kill all the snails and slugs you might have, so there's a bonus. There are folks around who are successful with monthly applications of an organic fertilizer like corn gluten meal or even alfalfa pellets. Call around to your local feed stores to get prices and availability. They will all have alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow), but only a few will have corn gluten meal. If you want a commercial organic fertilizer, there are many organic nurseries in the Austin area. John Dromgoole has a very nice nursery near the Barton Creek Preserve. Be prepared to follow some strict covid rules. You asked about micronutrients. You'd need a good soil test to know that. Unless you are a die hard TAMU fan, get the $20 soil test from Logan Labs in Ohio. When they email the results, post them as a new topic here and morpheuspa will tell you what to apply, how much, when, how often, and why. Search this forum for 'soil test' to see what kind of advice you can expect. You could get similar testing from TAMU but they don't run the full battery of tests unless you pay for the extras. Logan Labs runs the full test every time. As I'm sure morph is reading this, morph, is there anything he needs to tell Logan Labs about his soil? Our typical soil is 1,000 feet deep of limestone with a pH of 8.0. Another issue you might see is nutgrass popping up in the sod. Don't get excited about that. Nutgrass is a swamp type sedge that loves the extra water you're putting out. Once the grass becomes established (early August), you'll back way off on the watering frequency and the nutgrass will disappear/hybernate until we get another multiday rain event. That usually happens for us in September. AT THAT TIME is a good time to put down a preemergent herbicide. The early fall rains is when the Texas wildflower seeds germinate. The little plants immediately go dormant waiting for the cold temps and then the spring conditions to bolt into full sized plants. You can avoid the spring "weeds" with the fall preem applied during that rain event.