Any help with this? I sprayed it a few weeks ago with ortho weed b gon for southern lawns (I highly recommend it) and it started wilting within 24 hours. However, there was so much of it that it will definitely require a 2nd application. It hadn't rained in awhile and the weeds that were left were starting to wilt. It poured down rain all day yesterday and that definitely gave this weed a second wind. The pictures I posted are mild compared to how it is in some parts of my yards. My grass looks great besides this. One small fact in case this helps with the identification. The one thing I noticed is this weed started growing weeks after other weeds. It required a higher temperature to "wake up" then most other weeds. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks for the messages. I investigated as Darius said and confirmed Dollar Spot as well. Interestingly, I fertilized a few weeks ago (maybe 3 or 4) with Milogranite. The yard was starting to look amazing. I probably should have dethatched prior to that, but didn't have time. Anyway, I went to Depot last night. They carry the Scotts Fungus product (which I bought) and another one by Spectracide (pellets, not liquid). I read both of them, and they contain different active ingredients. The Scott's contains - Dimethyl [(1,2-phenylene) bis iminocarbonothioyl)] bis [carbamate] (Thiophanate-methyl). I didn't write down what the Spectracide pellets contained, but it definitely was different than what's in Scotts. Any recommendations from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. On another note, I believe my lawn needs to be dethatched. We just moved in (Pittsburgh) in December, and the other owners hadn't done it for a couple years. Can you do this in the mid/late summer? If not, when? THansk.

Sorry billhill I thought of the size after I posted. Philes21, I started the lawn from scratch in April of 2006 when I built the house which is partly the reason to lack of thatch. In about July 2006 I hired Chemlawn to do the ferts and "lime". I felt that they did a fair job, but thought they charged a good bit. In April of this year Scotts called and swore up and down that they could do a better job than Chemlawn at a little less price. He stated that all Chemlawn puts down was liquid fert and that they (Scotts) put down pellets which would be more healthy for the root system. (Remind you I really didn't know anything about lawn care) So with that said, I thought what the heck and went with them. Scotts started off pretty good. My lawn was looking good and weeds were not a problem. Then..... in mid June I started getting weeds throughout my lawn. When they came, they wouldn't treat my entire lot, skipping corners and the tree lawn. I made my calls to their office stating that I wasn't satisfied and after the third call I wanted to speak to management. Instead, they sent yet another service tech out that was not able to answer my questions (which were later answered here thanks to you guys and gals). After this, I was tired of calling them and decided to discontinue my serivce (a couple of weeks ago). I figured that I would be able to pick your brains enough to give me the ability to do it myself. So... with that said, I really didn't "save $210 over the last four years". I didn't take that offensively as I know you are here to help. As far as the NPK of the ferts that they used I am not sure. I know that both companies came at least once per month and that Chemlawn came twice in some months. During the dryer months I made sure to water deep every week. I have the water bills to prove it!! LOL!!! I did water in the evenings some times as I know now that I shouldn't do. With your suggestion, I plan on picking up some high nitrogen fertilizer tomorrow. I have kind of picked up on the fact that fertilizer is fertilizer is fertilizer as far as brands go. Is this true? I realize that there are different NPK ratios and additives, but to the extent of brands, are they all made by the same company and packaged differently?

Solarization may help with Early Blight or other diseases but LATE Blight needs a host plant to survive... if you removed your plants, be sure you leave no signs of them, like leaves or fruit that may have fallen off... clean up any nightshade family weeds that may be around too. Here is the some of the latest FAQ about the northeast Late Blight problem... "Some plants may escape late blight if the pathogen does not get on them. However, the chances of this happening this year are very low based on the fact occurrence of late blight is very widespread very early in the summer growing season. " "This year there will be a lot of wind-dispersed spores with so many occurrences of late blight widely distributed in the eastern U.S. this early in the season. These spores can be moved long distances." 3. Can plants be saved in a garden once late blight starts to develop? This depends on amount of symptoms seen, type of symptoms, how early in disease development symptoms were found, environmental conditions, proximity to other gardens or farms where late blight is developing, and management steps being taken. It is more likely possible to save plants in a garden if when the first symptoms are found: 1. There are very few. 2. They are on the leaves and not stems. 3. The garden has been inspected very thoroughly on a frequent basis (preferably daily) and thus the symptoms are discovered shortly after they formed. 4. Conditions are expected to be hot with no rain or lengthy dew for a prolonged period. (uh-oh!) 5. There are no nearby places with late blight that could be a source for more spores. 6. Further development of late blight will be slowed by regularly removing affected tissue (daily cut off and bag, preferably during the day when plants are dry and there will be sunshine for several hours afterwards) and applying fungicides (minimum of weekly). Additionally, success is more likely if fungicides were applied before symptoms were seen (thus there will be fewer initial symptoms) and spray coverage is maximized by using a pressurized pesticide sprayer to plants that are trellised. Removing extra branches will also help. Realize that even with an ideal situation (all above conditions met) there is no guarantee that success will be achieved. Late blight is a very destructive and difficult to manage disease. Impact can be great considering that tomato fruit and potato tubers that become infected can quickly rot. Plants can be killed quickly when late blight is not managed. A spot (lesion) can form within 4 days of when a spore lands on a plant (even faster, less than 3 days, with one strain of this pathogen) and a day later be producing spores that can be dispersed by the wind to healthy plant tissue resulting in more spots within a few days. Lesions that develop on stems are especially destructive. Late blight is not like most other diseases (e.g. Septoria leaf spot and anthracnose) that you can live with unmanaged because the plants wont be killed and all fruit lost. Late blight needs to be aggressively managed not only to try to save plants in the garden but also to avoid having the affected plants serve as a source of inoculum (wind-dispersed spores) for other gardens and farms. Promptly remove affected plant tissue on a regular basis. Realize that when symptoms are first seen, all points of infection likely are not yet visible. There is a latent period of a few days between infection and when symptoms are visible. No fungicide can cure tissue that is already affected, and this tissue will produce more inoculum. " "Fungicides cannot cure a spot that has already developed (disease control in plants is very different from humans). This tissue will soon die, but before it does the pathogen will produce hundreds of spores. The more spores, the greater the odds some will be dispersed to plant tissue that has not received fungicide. It is difficult to achieve complete coverage of plant tissue with fungicide, especially when a contact* fungicide is used, even with the best farm sprayer. The underside of leaves is an especially difficult area to reach (the pathogen can infect through either surface), " "After about 7 days the concentration (dose) of many fungicides can be too low to be adequately effective. "