I would guess there are some municipal constraints that control what you can do with a spring. It might be smarter to landscape in a way that allows the water to ebb and flow than to try to shunt if off your property - if that is where mother nature and the city decree that it should be. Also, where do you want the water to go - check that it is OK for it to go there. The more you can tell (and show) about the problem and the area, the better the information you will get. Karin L

Your page does not indicate what area you compost in, so I'm not sure about your climate. If you are in a very hot, dry and windy area; wrapping the outside of your bin in three layers of burlap cloth or one layer of landscape fabric might be a good idea. I have seven mesh bins in various stages, so usually there is at least one on the hot side. I put problematic ingredients like fish parts, veggie and fruit wastes, freshwater seaweed-type plants; only in the core (center) of a pile which is 130F to 165F in the center. Fish parts will dissolve in ten days or less. I try to start out with a hot pile by making a 4' diameter pile 24" or 18" high from shredded leaves and fresh grass/coffee grounds. That gets off to a nice start and the problematic ingredients can be put in the center in as little as three days later. Too much moisture in the middle might be a problem from the start. It may need to be turned.

Depends on how fast your grass grows and how thick it is? I sometimes have to do it also. I blow off the top of my deck (course I blow off MY equipment after every use) and using a garden hose spray the grass off the under side of the deck. The wet grass will come off fairly easy provided you don't let it dry. Usually will be grass and dirt stuck to the bottom of the deck anyway. sometimes a scraping is required to get it removed. I rarely spray the top, but same thing if it gets stuck you have to loosen it up so the blower will blow it off. I blow the rest of the LT off and wipe the deck with a rage or old towel. Then I start the LT and engage the deck to let the blades blow any water from under the deck. IMO the problem is when you let the wet grass and dirt buildup and leave it. Now you got the potiental for rust, especially if you leave large clumps of grass and dirt on top of the deck. I've done this for 20 years on my first older LT4000 and the deck has not got a rust spot on it (or the FRAME, i know some will find that hard to believe!). IMO as long as your blow dry or wipe it off and store it inside where it will dry completely you won't have a problem. I seen alot of decks rusted out from neglect (not keeping them clean) and just leaving the LT out (basiclly they leave it in the yard or under a tree, get on and mow, and a few years later wonder why they have all the problems. IMO the only way a deck rust through is to leave wet grass on top of it and not clean it off. More information that you was looking for, but take it for what it worth.

There is also pickrel rush, ice ballet milkweed,cinderella milkweed (pink) ribbon grasses, several types of rushes, many types of sedges, spider lillies all types, mints all types ( warning mint can be very invasive), pink flamingo water celery, obediant plant, most types of cannas once they are up and have the first leaf unfurled, many types of taro,lousiana irises, japenese irises, ragged robin, hardy purple thalia, if part of it is shaded in the afternoon white butterfly ginger, elephant ears, calidums, celosa,impatiants ( impatiants can take full sun if wet enough). If you go to the ponds forum you would be surprised at some of the terrific plants that like wet feet.