Round-up kills pretty much everything that's green: weeds, grass, etc. Grass usually only dies from too much sun when it doesn't get enough water. Most of your better seed comes from independent seed sellers, not the big box stores. Many people source their seed via the internet. Choosing what type of grass to grow is up to you, and what you think would do best in your environment. Since this is a spring seeding, and you live in the city, tall fescue might be your best option. Kentucky bluegrass produces nicer turf in my opinion, but it is much better suited to a late summer seeding since it takes longer to germinate and mature. Perennial rye is the fastest to maturity, but it can be a bit thirstier.

1) Can you confirm this is a lawn fungus? Pattern has been, grass gets a dry area and then develops the yellow color of doom. Mostly this happened in a handful of places the irrigation doesn't cover too well. I'm not an expert at disease in northern lawns, but if I had those spots in my St Augustine I would declare it a disease. 1) What is the best path forward from here? Just hope and wait the fungicide works? Am I watering too much/too little? Can I over fungicide? Can I go get immunox and double down or will that kill the grass? You can absolutely overuse fungicide. As far as I'm concerned you already have. To my belief using a fungicide is like poisoning your soil, so I stay away from it. Why? Because most of the beneficial microbes in your soil are fungi. Best path depends on the watering issue. Are you watering too much or too little? You'd have to tell us how much you're watering to help us with an answer to that. How often do you water and for how long? If you are still watering multiple times per day, as if this were just installed, then you're watering too much. That would be my suspicion. Transitioning from new install watering to mature turf watering can be tricky. At this point if you are watering more than once every 10 days to 2 weeks then I'd be suspicious of too much water. Put some cat food or tuna cans in the yard and turn on the sprinklers. Time how long it takes to fill them. That's how long you should be watering. 2) Is the yellow grass a goner? At this point in time I'm planning on having to resod a handful of places come September, but if it'll come back on it's own I'd be very happy. Agree. Adjust your watering for now and resod selected spots at your leisure. Boston area is a forgiving climate for new grass, unless you got bad advice on watering the new grass.

On the back of the bag of the turf builder, it said to do it once a week for 4 weeks. And it shows what the grass should be doing in each week. I got to application 3 and everything was fine. I stopped it there because then the heat came and turned everything yellow. In the picture, i applied turf builder to that area. It was great until it turned 90 and above for the weekend and it all turned yellow except for that one really green edge. I applied it there because the rest of that grass belongs to my neighbor. The watering schedule is sun, tues, and thursday at 6am for 10 minutes. The sprinklers are set up to cover the whole area that is my yard in the frpnt and back, so I can get an inch of water with those in 10 minutes. According to the landscaping company. But that just started this past sunday. A month ago i would do a spray with the hose every other day. I dont know how much i watered, but i would skip a few days after a rainy day. Maybe I watered too much. (-.-) The HOA landscapers are not optional for my neighborhood sadly. So i cannot control the mowing aspect of my lawn care, but I can control the water system and everything else.

My theory is, if it's green, it's good. We don't mow until after our violets bloom. I'm not a fan of creeping charlie, but I have some, too. Seriously, though, if your lawn is green, who obsess over whether it's grass or not? And let your violets bloom. They're gorgeous and any grass won't really need it until after tge violets are over.