There is a set of 2 of these blades on e bay now if you do a seach under lawn boy. one picture shows the exact part number stamped into the blade and other shows a shipping invoice tag that apears to be a fairly recent form although the part was discontined within the last couple years i belive. i buy NOS parts fairly often on e bay usually in lots from closed dealers but if this is the exact part you need go for it. I dont have a 18" mower in my collection or even seen one of those models in person to be honest so i wont outbid you.

Well, you mentioned heavy duty metal parts...and for that, I'd probably want the Ariens. I went with the Snapper Commercial for that reason. I looked at the height adjusters on the Toro, LawnBoy,etc. and thought they looked like they were made out of that metal that you band wood bundles together with. I think the Honda had some sort of metal for that Xenoy deck, even though the detents were plastic. My dad has a HRX217, and he likes it. I really wanted to like the LawnBoys, but I couldn't get past all of that plastic and the engine choices (refuse to go Briggs Quantum due to experience and discussions with shops). I realllly wanted the Kawasaki and I love power/idle of the engine. Tecumseh really impressed me a week ago, though, because my dad gave me his Yard Machine late last fall and I left it outside because I had no room and in the garage. We got hit with some snow that lasted months and it sat under a drift for at least 2 months, non-winterized and recently started after some priming and playing with it for 5 minutes or so. I was down to either a Husky, Ariens or Snapper. For the money, I could get the best features on the Snapper Pro. I liked the controls better on it, and the bagging system was more ideal than the Ariens for me. Plus, you can add the casters to the Snapper Commercial, and the caster model of the Ariens just didn't appeal to me at all. The Husky had the aluminum deck, but I still liked the Snapper better for that price range. I'm hoping that it will last a long time and I love it so far. Maybe all of the plastic and lighter metal on those other mowers is okay for what I would do with a mower. My dad broke the back wheel off of his Yard Machines a year or two ago, and that was the metal part.

Tip the mower up on it's RH side wheels (carburetor up). Remove the bag or mulch plug - this cuts off the ignition. Remove the spark plug wire anyway. Rotate the blade until it's straight up and down, and place a piece of 2x4 wood in the deck on the RH side of the blade. Stand on the wood and put the 5/8"* wrench (may have to use a breaker bar or at least a 1/2" drive ratchet) on the bolt head and put your weight on it to turn it COUNTERCLOCKWISE, or LEFT. Do the opposite to install the new blade. *some have a 9/16" bolt If you have already tipped up the mower on the wrong side, you will have to replace the air filter if oil-soaked, and you may have to take the spark plug out and pull the starter cord (be sure to GROUND the spark plug wire on the post provided to the left of the spark plug hole before pulling the starter) about twenty times to blow the oil out of the cylinder. Put the plug back in, connect the wire and check the oil. If all good, start the engine. It will blow smoke for several minutes. Don't do this again, unless you like the remedy. Coincidentally, I just got through changing the blades on my 10684 and 22271, which are exactly alike as far as the blade and driver.

I had a rear-discharge Honda that had a discharge chute available. I got one and used it a few times - it was the best discharging I've seen. Because it was mounted higher than a regular side discharge, it threw the grass out over a wider area with no clumping at all. You may be able to get one of those chutes and find a way to mount it on your mower. Otherwise, just mulch at the maximum deck height and go back and bag up the clippings. After that you should be able to lower the deck one notch at a time and bag or mulch normally. You should look into a new blade for that mower once you fix the blade clutch cable.