For you guys out there restoring mowers, is there anywhere I can find original deck decals/warning labels, etc. I see Parts Tree has like one out of three I need to make it appear stock again. Was thinking about having the deck blasted and power coated. Can anyone help with locating a battery box and maybe the correct battery part number or size? Parts Tree has one for more than I'd like to spend. Also, I understand the crank case is sealed without a gasket? I noticed some small bubbles coming from one of the bolts. Engine runs great though with good power. I figured if I was going to go through the hassle to split the case, then the good ol' F was getting all new harware inside-bearings, seals, piston and rings. Is the cylinder chrome lined? Should I make a few passes with a hone to freshen up the walls? Heck, this will be my second 2 stroke rebuild only because all my other Lawn Boys wanted to live to see Armegeddon! Thanks for all your comments! They're highly appreciated!!

Echoman, I would have posted earlier but I've been working on a couple projects myself and haven't been able to spend alot of time on here.
As far as decals you will have to seekout New old stock decals probabbly. Most dealers are not going to have decals for a 23 year old machine. I know no where to get any, so I usually do without.
As far as the battery box goes you may be able to use a more modern version, I'm not very familiar with that age of box but would a battery and box work from a 10545? You might start there.

Yes the crankcase is sealed with a sealant known nowdays as anaerobic gasket maker. I use Permatex brand, It comes in small tubes or in large ones but I usually buy the small ones. You will need to clean the case surfaces very well wipe them clean with alcohol then when dry apply a thin uniform coat to the surfaces and place together. Of course this is one of the final steps after the overhaul.

It sounds to me like you may not need a complete overhaul, I'll bet if you re-ring the piston after a thourough cleaning it may be O.K. I usually deglaze the cylinder wall and clean exhaust ports good. Don't go honing the thing out if you don't need to, Unless you have an oversize kit. And then I wouldn't think it were worth it as "F" engines were abundant. BTW the walls are iron lined not chrome so they do have commercial quality.
Make sure you use new seals and install a new reed valve while you have the case split. You can get alot of good info from this guide under "F" engine powerhead teardown.

Post anymore questions as you go along, we are still around here and there. Its spring you know alot of us are outside using the machines we talk about all winter long.
Alot of LB guys are at My tractor forum. I'm not a member as I don't have a digital camera, They really like pictures over there. I'll join as soon as I do get one though, I'd love to show off some of my cool machines I've built.

Good luck, Neal

Here is a link that might be useful: Service manual

Lawn Boys have been my favorites since I first mowed as a kid! Thanks a lot for the info! I'd love to see more pics of everyones 2 stroke mowers they own! I think I'll get the deck p coated, and do a complete engine overhaul just for the heck of it. It runs great now, but for less than $100, it'll be a fun time! I'm sure to get back about something. Thanks again Neal!

Neal, I re-read your post. How would you "deglaze" a cylinder without honing it? Isn't it a good measure to make a few swirls to cut new crosshatch in the cylinder for the new rings to seal well?

De-glaze or "Hone" same meaning. Yes that is exactly what you should do if it needs it. The cylinder walls will be a black stainish color if there is a "glaze" to remove.

I've opened up twenty year old engines and found cross hatch still visible with nice clean walls. Thats the beauty of steel lined cylinder walls.

I was just cautioning you to not get out of hand with the hone. just enough to clean it up, not bore it out.

You say it runs great, then why buy a overhaul kit? Don't buy some aftermarket kit because then you'll have a piston and rings made in Taiwan or something unless thats what you want. New pistons and etc are still available through Toro but be prepared to shell out some cash. I would keep that piston if its in good shape, meaning no scuffs or scratches as its a genuine OMC part. If you really want just replace the rings thats probably all it would need.
Mabe get some new seals and a reed valve. Re-kit the carb and walla new mower under $30.

But its you're machine you should do what you want. I'm just trying to save you a bunch of work. But then again total teardowns are good learning, especially when you over torque a rod bolt and throw it about twenty minutes into setting you're new rings and totally destroying the engine and casing and all that work, time and money.

Have fun and we'll be here if you need.

Neal

Info like this is always appreciated in my book. I do have all original parts priced out except for the piston/rings. Guy claims it to be aftermarket, but he a repairman and says he gets good use from them. $25.00-should I pass on it?

$25 for what?? I don't understand the question. Are you saying for the entire overhaul minus the Piston and rings?

Listen, the nice thing about "F" series engines is there's hardly anything to replace besides seals, $2.00 apiece X2=4.
Carb mount gasket, $2.00 on the high side X1 = 2.
New rings genuine Toro $9.00 X1=9. small tube of anaerobic gasket maker, $3.00 X1=3. Spark plug, $2.00 depending on brand X1=2. Exhaust gasket, $1.50 X1=1.5. Reed valve, $3.00 X1=3. Carb overhaul kit W/float $10.00 X1=10. I get $34.50

I'm quoting pretty close to what I pay for Genuine Toro/Lawnboy replacement parts. Of course I may be off a few dollars but You should get by pretty good for $30.

Aftermarket is O.K. but I notice the gasket material used in aftermarket kits are cheap paper replacements that will wear out faster especially the exhaust gasket. Get the exhaust gasket from a dealer and be sure it is genuine, It will be made of a metallic material that lasts forever basically. It will keep the blow-by in the muffler and not on the fresh polish job on the deck.

Just be sure you know what you are buying if you get the aftermarket kit is all.

Neal

Sorry about that Neal. I meant $25 was for a aftermarket piston,rings and pin. The guy selling me all the parts says he has good service with the piston setup-all the other pieces needed for a complete overhaul is OEM. I want to go through this engine, really "just because". A hobby, and I want to know it's ready for another 30 years. One more thing, what is this "toe bar" steel strap located on the radius of the deck at the discharge? I never used one on my last mower, but never mulched, just side discharged and occasional bagging. Is it for support for the mulch plate or the grass bagger chute? If left on to side discharge, it would appear to collect and deflect grass clippings from exiting like it should. Am I correct on this?

"If left on to side discharge, it would appear to collect and deflect grass clippings from exiting like it should. Am I correct on this?"

Yes especially when wet. I like to leave mine on for extra support and I don't do alot of side discharge mainly mulch and Bag.

If you side discharge alot it comes off easily and you're mower will be fine, just don't slam it around too much.

Neal

I've got my M to mulch and bag when needed, though I do have everything for this one also, but will mainly side discharge. I never ran that strap or "toe bar" on my last mower which stayed with the EX,(then she burned it up), I know I know, why? Should have left the newer Super Recycler Don't know, anyway, I never had problems with fatigue or cracking with that mower and my back yard had some rough spots and divets. I'm careful when I mow and take my time. Wasn't sure it that strap was for support or for the mulch plate because I had never seen or used one before until I bought this one. Wish I had my ol' bricktop back. That was my first one. Would love to have a new 10550 though. I want a Duraforce now! Won't spend a $1000 to have one though. $500 or 6 maybe.

I saw the thread here and want you guys to know that with a little ingenuity, a color scanner, AND a color printer, YOU can make your own decals.

Decal paper is available that will run thru an inkjet. You're basically scanning to file, then making copies. After you get the copy you're satisfied with, there is a topcoat fixative that seals the paper to make it waterproof. Cut it out, soak in water and.........BING!.........a decal.

Do some internet searching for "decal paper", then follow your nose. The trick is to get the necessary detail, and to get them color correct, which, depending on how anal you are, may require a lot of patience.

Model makers do it all the time.

Good luck.

Hey echoman get the part numbers for your decals off lawn boy.com and go to jackssmallengines.com go to lawn boy parts looks up some of the decals you want are still availble some are not. Any pictures of the unit? I got some of my decals from there for restos of some of my mowers.