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Results of over seeding.

15 years ago

Last fall I posted here and discussed over seeding and also killing the whole lawn and going with a pure KBG blend. I just couldn't kill the lawn so I dethatched, aerated and over seeded heavily with Scott's Pure Premium Sun and Shade.

http://s283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/The_House_photos/Lawn/

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Comments (7)

fourstringdrums
15 years ago
Looks great! You did exactly what my plan is for the fall. Did you roll the seed afterwards, go back over with the dethatcher or do nothing?
nc_lawn_nut
15 years ago
NICE!! I am also not in the "renovate with KBG or else crowd". Any lawn with a consistant stand of grass (pick your variety) is going to look good when fed and watered correctly.

I really wish this site would get off the 100% KBG bandwagon. There's just so many areas and conditions that all KBG don't work well but where a mix with fescue will actually yield a stronger turf. Scott's has a lot of $$$ invested in marketing of seed products and there's a reason why they use a blend.

I'm expecting my lawn to look like yours come next Spring. Another round of seeding this Fall should be the last step I need.
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I am going to suggest stuck-tape removal a little differently than christophern (as an alternative for you to try). Loosen the tape very slowly from the loose/floppy edge (hopefully you left one) toward the stuck edge -- try do a whole segment or length at a time if you can. This should minimize what comes off at the edge line. For any tape splotches that are totally adhered, use a blade to loosen the far edge and pull off toward the wall edge. Flick off anything that is clealy a peel, sand that with fine grade paper, prime the splotches, paint the spots free hand. In the future -- try priming and first coat of paint with no tape. A little trick is to deposit paint with a good, angled brush (1.5") at your edge line in a perpendicular fashion (yes, crosswise and short strokes for about two feet along your window edge or moulding). Then, gently swipe with the grain (now parallel) along the edge using the side of the brush and WITHOUT reloading your brush and WITHOUT touching the edge itself. This technique will first "deposit" the paint close to your edge via the 1.5" bristles, followed by smoothing the paint along the grain with a normal stroke. Repeat as needed. Never put a loaded brush (bristles or side of brush) close to an edge! Even if you use tape with the above approach, you will rarely get paint on your tape ... if you do it will be light bristle touches during your cross-wise load .... or a swipe wisp with your parallel smooth-outs. In either case, you won't be putting any significant amount of paint onto your tape and the protected adjoining surface (which is usually the culprit for any sticking). Finally, if/when laying tape, use two/three foot segments and run your fingertip LIGHTLY on the edge you are protecting (1/8" or 1/4" adhesion at the most) -- leave the rest flapping loose. The light touch will minimize any chance of the tape stickum penetrating an under coat (which is shouldn't anyway) and the little stuck line (1/8" or so) will minimize the tape edge available for paint-oopsies. Then -- like Christophern said, take the tape up when your top layer is still wet. This post was edited by PinesEverywhere on Wed, May 8, 13 at 8:52
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m1shmosh
15 years ago
You can get any stand of grass to look good with proper care. Many of us renovated because we want our lawn to look GREAT. If that also means less mowing, less watering, fewer diseases (with the newer cultivars)... even better!

Scotts now owns Turf-Seed Co with some of the best cultivars available under their belt. I wonder why they don't put these cultivars in their "premium" blends if they truly want your lawn to look great.
diyourselfer
Original Author
15 years ago
I did not use a slit seeder. After dethatching with a power rake I used a hand rake and really gave the ground a good scraping. That got up most of the thatch and gave me good access to the soil. I used a drop spreader and put down twice the recommended portion of seed. The next step was hand throwing Scott's seeding soil over most of the lawn and then starter fertilizer using the spreader. The sprinkler system kept everything moist for the next few weeks.
nc_lawn_nut
15 years ago
m1shmosh, I'm not knockin' people who renovate. I would strongly argue that a well fed, weed-weed free stand of TTTF/KBG can also look GREAT. Thick consistent turf for a given yard condition(s) is what makes a lawn look "GREAT".

For the causual observer on this site (I was a long-time lurker) the impression can often be: "Bring your bag of KBG to the game or just stay at home"

Having used both "sod-quality" and Scott's seeds, the only difference I found was the price ;) They both get weeds when starting the lawn.

I think his lawn demonstrates that a blend can be quite nice.
m1shmosh
15 years ago
Your are probably right. I have seen a lot of really nice lawns in my area--not really likely any are monostands. Sometimes even a professional cut can make a lawn look better.
jandree22
15 years ago
"For the causual observer on this site (I was a long-time lurker) the impression can often be: 'Bring your bag of KBG to the game or just stay at home'"

I got the same impression. The outstanding lawn pics linked above, along with the thread here... Is there anything to love about perennial rye?href> were encouraging and reassured me that it wasnÂt necessary to kill off and reseed my perfectly healthy lawn.

However, I should state that I do understand why people do go with the completely new KBG lawnÂ itÂs just a preference in having everything homogeneous. Personally, IÂm just in the mindset of having a thick, dark green, weed-free turf and IÂm happy!

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