I would suggest you not use any broadly applied herbicides or pesticides this year. No sense chancing stressing the turf. and at the very least check the label for advisories regarding applying. A half pound/k of NPK every two weeks applied to dry blades and then watered in until mid June will be beneficial for the sod. As far as fertilizing new sod or grass, what follows is the best advice I've ever found: "The Philes Phertilizer Lecture follows: These new KBG lawns are hungry for fertilizer. Very much like, (and if you renovated, exactly like) a sod farm, those guys that start with bare ground, throw some seed around, and by late July of every year, they are selling product: a deeply rooted, dense intertwined dark green carpet of lush (no bare spots) Kentucky Bluegrass. Now how do they do that every year? (And, of course, the implied question "How come you and I can't do it also?") They do it with frequent, rather than heavy, applications of fertilizer. Literally, every two weeks, a light application of fertilizer. At seeding time, they start with an 8-8-8 or a 10-10-10. Upon the grass reaching the 'first mow' stage, they add Milorganite, and then it's Milorganite every two weeks, as the weather gets warmer. Every two weeks would seem to you (and in the old days, to me) as 'excessive'. It's not. Not only is it not excessive, it may well be Required. There's only one difference between the sod farm, with that lush green grass for sale every year, and the typical homeowner here (I'm leaving out the general public: the public is a 2 or a 3, as you know, and you guys and gals are a 6 or a 7. Twice as good. But I'm trying to get y'alls up to a 9, which is where the sod farm is), and that difference is Frequent Applications of Fertilizer. Especially with KBG, more fertilizer than you are used to putting down is good. A typical homeowner would fertilize once in the fall. Not the first year, but every following year, on these newly renovated (or overseeded) KBG lawns, two full applications are required in the fall. Spring? A lot of people don't like to fertilize in the spring. A KBG lawn requires an application of big-first-number fertilizer, in May. A newly renovated KBG lawn requires yet another application in mid June. That lawn needs the nitrogen, for all the growing, both above, below, and across the ground, that it's wanting to do, and will do, if you feed it. Density? It requires nitrogen. Color? Requires more nitrogen. Aggressiveness? You already know what it requires. Even an old KBG lawn, the Merion sods of this world, needed more nitrogen than they received. As proof, drive through the subdivisions of ten or twenty years ago, and look at the lawns: those lawns were not exactly treated like a sod farm, were they? If you want your new lawn to turn out just like that, here's all you have to do: fertilize once in the fall, and once in the spring. That's it. The results are guaranteed. By now, somebody is saying (and should be), "Is it possible to OVER fertilize a lawn?" Yes, it's possible. But not what you'd think. The 'typical' overfertilize stripes that we all seem to fear came from the old drop spreaders, when the rows were overlapped. That overlap caused a doubling of the fertilizer along that narrow, overlapped row, and it was all delivered in one day. What most people forget, while imagining the scorn of neighbors and children, is that those bands of over fertilization did not last until fall, they went away in less than a month. Repeat: the so called over fertilization went away, in less than a month. The homeowner had not created another Love Canal toxic zone, the homeowner had instead managed to put down more than the grass could handle all at once, but in fact the lawn handled it, and probably even needed it. The lawn just didn't need it all at once. Nor in summer's heat. Disaster? No. Bad delivery technique? Yes. It wasn't too much fertilizer, it was too much fertilizer all at once, and there's a difference, isn't there? These days, with the rotary far-flinging spreaders, a more evenly spread application of fertilizer is the norm. Now that we want to emulate the sod farms (and their turf success), we know that there's no sin in putting down a half application, in one direction, and putting down the other half application, in the other direction a week later. Now that we want to emulate the sod farms, we will want to feed the lawn during summer, rather than letting it starve while it battles the hot summer sun. So Milorganite, or other organic fertilizer is required, rather than a big-first number fertilizer. At least once in summer, but if you've renovated, or over seeded, that new KBG needs two applications. It needs the food. So there's my recommendation for the renovators and overseeders: two applications in the fall (not the first year, on the seedlings, they can't use the food yet, as they haven't grown enough yet) at least one application in the spring (two if you renovated or overseeded. That application we skipped last fall goes down the following spring), and you must feed the lawn in the summer: that new KBG needs the food. So here we are, end of August. You know you are going to fertilize in the fall, probably twice, and perhaps didn't do enough during spring or summer. You can do a half application right now, of big first number fertilizer, or a full application of Milorganite. And still do the regular fertilizing when fall gets here. But your lawn likely needs the meal, and if you provide that light meal right now, before fall gets here, I think you'll love the visible results. Good luck with it."

Yes you should fertilize it but not necessarily in July. Northern grasses should be fertilized on Memorial Day, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. The best fertilizer will NOT be a weed and feed. If you want the very best, get a soil test and do what they say. If you don't care that much, you can use any fertilizer and get the same results. Or you can use organic fertilizer. Any one of those is good. I prefer to make my own from ingredients found at my local feed store.

I used a balanced fertilizer on the bermuda when it started greening up this spring. You stated not to use a balanced fertilizer for the last fertilization if used a balanced in the spring. Just wondering what the reason for that. What would you suggest for the last fertilization. It is fairly simple; Phosphorous and Potassium are used very sparingly by plants and relatively stable in the soil. Whereas Nitrogen is heavily used by plants and freely moves, or purges from the soil via water movement. A 1-time application per year is all that is necessary with respect to Phosphorous and Potassium. In fact in a lot of areas P and K are never needed. Using a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio balanced fertilizer once per year is a generic recommendation in lieu of a soil test. 3-1-2 is what is known as Mother NatureÂs natural balance. So if you want to know exactly what your soil test needs, only your soil dresser knows for sure via a test. If you have a soil test done, the lab will give you the exact amount of P and K needed in one application for the year. So since you applied a balanced fertilizer in the spring, all you need to do is give a final Nitrogen only application about 45 days before you expect your first frost. At this time you can have a soil test done, and see what you really need next spring, or if you react quickly and get the test results quickly you can add what is recommended this year and be done with it until next Fall. So I stand by what I say; only one balanced application per year. DoesnÂt matter the grass type.

Here are my thoughts on the fertilizer you used. bone meal - useless unless you really need calcium and potassium. feather meal - useless unless you plan to be around until the next ice age. Feathers do not decompose in your lifetime. blood meal - not bad for a protein source in a mix like this. Blood is extremely fast release, so use only in small amounts. fish meal - also not bad but in the small amount that must be in the bag, color it useless. molasses - nearly useless. It will help awaken the bacteria in the soil. In my opinion you will get a much better value (MUCH better!!) by buying a 50-pound bag of alfalfa pellets. Apply at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet as often as you want or can afford. Weekly is not too often. Apply at least 3x per year with two of those apps going down in the fall before the grass stops growing. Even a bag of dog food has more and better protein than the fertilizer you mentioned. The top three items in a bag of organic fertilizer should be strong protein sources. Bone and feathers are not. Soybean, cottonseed, corn gluten, and alfalfa meal/pellets are the top sources of protein (not in that order). Sometimes you see meat byproducts listed on the label. That's good, too.