I bought a pot with no holes in the bottom, can I get away with this?

No. I'd like to qualify this with some way to go without drainage anyway, but -- just no. [shrug] Sorry.

Can I put stones or something in the bottom of the soil, will this be enough drainage?

No. Won't help. Sorry again.

Do flowers grow all the time?

Kinda. They supposedly flower mostly between February and September, but in actuality they will flower whenever.

When do I remove the flowers?

Whenever you want to. The flowers typically turn green as they age, and then eventually move on to brown, dry up, and can be pulled out of the plant easily, but generally people cut them out well before reaching that point. I don't like the look of the green flowers myself, and usually wind up cutting them out early. It doesn't matter to the plants, though. Some people also don't like the look of the spadix (the actual cluster of flowers: it's firm and sort of vaguely hot dog shaped . . . but, you know, a bumpy hot dog) and cut those out leaving only the spathe (the white modified leaf that everybody thinks is the flower), but that doesn't matter either, unless you have one of the fragrant varieties, in which case you have to leave the spadix in order to get the fragrance.

I have seen mention of perlite, do I need to mix this into my soil?

It's not likely to hurt, but for a Spathiphyllum, no, it's probably not necessary.

My plant will be in a large north facing bay window so I think that is perfect, but to one side will be a radiator will this be okay?

It depends on how far from the radiator. If possible (and I realize it may not be), try to keep the plant at least six to eight feet away. They shouldn't be in a permanent location that's colder than about 55F (13C), so be careful getting your plant too close to a cold window, but you don't need to worry about them nearly as much as you would for some plants (like Aglaonema, Chinese evergreen). If it's not possible to keep them away from the radiator, putting something, pretty much anything, between the plant and radiator will deflect some of the heat.

I also want to keep it a manageable size, can I trim it as usual to keep it under control?

They don't really get taller, so much, and getting wider takes a fair amount of time, so I don't think you'll actually need to worry about this.

Hi Claughton...
Let's start with keeping your PL at a manageable size.
There are different types of Peace Lily's, Spaithiphllums,) from mini's, 7-8" to the tallest and largest growing foliage, 5-6' plants. (Mauna Loa) By any chance, do you know which type you have?
Pruning PL's, as far as I know, isn't recommended. To be honest, I don't see how it could be done.
You can keep your plant underpotted, and if you fertilize, do so only once a year. Keeping roots trimmed might do it, but I've never done this personally (w/a PL) so I can't tell you what to expect.

No-drainage pots: It's not recommended, especially for someone just starting out. For one thing, if the pot doesn't have holes, excess water builds up, which can lead to rot. Not to mention what can happen with fertilizers.
I'm not saying it's impossible, I grow several plants, including cactus and succulents in pots w/o drainage..the longer you grow plants, it seems, rules can be broken.
But, I advise against using a pot w/o holes.
Do you have a pot you'd like to use that doesn't offer drainage? If so, what's its material..If plastic, holes can be drilled..if ceramic, and decorative, there's ways getting around it. Keep the plant in a plstic growing pot, set styrofoam sheets inside outter container, then set growing pot atop styrofoam..When water drips from drainage holes, it settles on the bottom of outter pot. If by chance the water flow is higher than styrofoam, excess should be dumped.

It's a good idea adding Perlite to whatever mix you use. Most plants require a well-draining soil. If you can't find a suitable packaged soil, mixing your own should be done.

When flowers fade, cut them and their stem closest to the base of soil. They don't normally interefere with future buds, but they look unsightly..

Do flowers grow all the time: W/PL's, flowers grow when they want..LOL.. Actually, very few plants flower year round, but PL is one that can flower any season..I find semi-potbound PL's are more likely to bloom than those in large containers. It's said, PL's can live in low light, but IMO, they should be placed in at the minimum, medium sun. Since yours will be in a north bay window, as long as it's unobstructed, (curtains/blinds/buildings/trees) it should be fine.
What type of heat do you have? Can you place your plant on the other side of the window so it won't be near/hitting the radiator?
The important thing is, do not overwater, regardless of pot size/material. Give adequate sun light, and because PL's are semi-slow growers, they don't require as much fertilizer as other tropicals do. If you're not too worried about height, once a month, during growing season is adequate. Good luck, and Happy Holidays, Toni

You could use the hole-less pot as it is intended as a catch pot which is basically the same as a glorified saucer. It is a bit more tricky though since you can't see the water level. What you could do is leave it in the smaller pot and used the catch pot as decoration, taking the plant out to water, make sure it drains well before putting it back in. You can use gravel and aquarium charcoal to catch any drips and raise the rim of the inside pot.

I've found that PL's need more light than are usually given, I would put it in a east or west window, if you have one. a few feet from a south window will work also, but is not nessesary for good growth. Keep an eye out for spider mites, I can't tell you how many I have lost to mites, to the extent of cutting all the leaves off and letting them grow again.

Cloughton, as far as having a pot with no drainage holes and can you grow a plant in such ....YES....you can...but its not recommended.
Think of it this way...you know you need to water the plant...but how much. Too much, and you know the water will sit for a time in those stones you are taking up space with. How much of the water is the plant using.
If you know, if you can trust your instincts, then there is no barrier to letting your plant grow this way.

But most of us cant really tell when the plant is using its water...and how much is being taken up.
The roots we know should not be continually surrounded by water...like us, we wouldn't think to stand in water too long--our skin would pay for it.

So putting drainage holes in the pot, allows iet it drain away that excess water the plant cant use. When we water, we give it enough that we know has gone down to the roots.
Its the roots that feed the plant. And we don't want the roots to be forever standing in water...so we let it drain.
If such water was allowed to sit at the roots and not be taken up by the plant, they would soon rot and prevent the plant's tissue to tkae up nourishment.

Putting a hole into most containers is easy as long as you take it slow, use the correct drill bit and take precautions so as to not cause the pot to split or crack.

Enough of that!

I suggest you learn something about "exposures". i.e. from which direction the sun is invited to pay its respects to your plants. Usually we speak in terms of direction.
North, east, west and south.

Such exposures to sunlight does give to plants certain intensity of the sun's rays. West is slightly warmer than south, which is to a degree warmer than east....and all three of them are warmer than north.
Most plants do not do well --- cant do as well...put in a northern exposure.
You have heard the expressions...."full"...."partial"...and "shade" when referring to how plants are best suited.
Its in their genes.

Full sun is that which is normally thought to be of a length of time...8 hours.....down to 6 hours is what benefits those types of plants needing it.
Partial sun plants get along famously with 5 --even 4 hours of sunlight.

Shade plants....and there are different degrees of shade..are those that do well outside in a northern or to the sides of this exposure...intensity.

There are a few houseplants that can do very well in a northern exposure. But, when we think about it, how such exposure limits the sun's intensity to give to our plants what they need, we try our best to find a place to put our plants in so that they receive more fuller sunlight.

Then there is the question of seaons.
Do you know we get our seasons because the Earth is tilted.
If the Earth was not tilted on its axis....all seasons would be the same....the north would be cold...the middle warm...the center hot....and I guess would be where we all live happily ever after.
All light then would be the same and we could put our plants in any window and get the same intensity.

But that's not the case is it.

And Peace Lily...."spathiphyllum" is the Latin name...likes it bright...but just not direct sunlight.
But then, because the sun is not shining as bright now as it will later on, we can give the Spath more direct light without putting it in jeopardy.

I suggest, for the better sake of the plant, you try to give it a better light source. West or south is suggested.

Your heat register causes air currents to flow in and around your room. If a plant is in direct path of such current of air, it can dry out that much quicker and the abrupt change of temeperature can affect badly a plant.
How much, depends on many factors concerning the plant.
So generally, try to not let your plant be put in a direct path of warm air currents. This also applies to cold air currents....from doors that are constantly being opened and closed. (windows too)
Plants too should not be where they can be bumpted into by persons using the traffic paths.
Where sunlight is not so bright, and if one wishes to give such light, then try to "raise it"...either by placing it on a pedestal or table or shelf....or hang it up from the ceiling.
If walls are of a brighter color--especially white or oft white, such wall can reflect light back to our plants.
This can amount to a very helpful way of giving more light to our plants when they need it.

Generally, keep a plant trimmed when it is actively growing....it can then fix itself for how we treat it.
Too, we often trim our plants' leaves to keep them in good looking order. We use scissors to trim the edges or tips when the occasional brown or yellow shows up.
Most housepalnts though are slow --to a point--growers and need not be pruned per se to any great degree.
Withdrawing them from light will often cut back their growth potential.
Same goes for how much fertilizer we give them and how much water we give them. But don't starve your plant of either should they need it.

Jeannie, how and why does one prune a PL, other than cutting back nearest the roots if there's a problem? Toni