One thought is what you've done so far was done way too early. Mechanical practices are done after the grass has greened up because then you know it is into active growth mode. It's during active growth that it is able to repair itself from the damage the machinery caused, machinery includes aerators, vertical mowers, and power rakes, and even rakes. Raking, as innocent as it may seem, is done gently if done before the soil is dried and the grass is actively growing. But raking is also best done afterward.

Another thought is you didn't have a real lawn last year. It's possible the former owners planted annual ryegrass in order to get something there quickly for the house to sell. The annual variety establishes very quickly but would only last one season. Under other circumstances, I would suggest getting the grass identified, but I don't see the purpose at this point. Just plant some grass seeds. In your area, it is most likely ryegrass, but of the perennial variety. Incidentally, it may or may not have been the former owner's intention to plant the annual variety (if in fact that is what he did). It's easy to make the mistake between the two, so be mindful and read the labels carefully.

I don't think there is any hurry but I need more information...

What kind of grass do you have? Is it a mixture of grasses?
How have you been caring for it? (watering frequency and mowing height)
Did you fertilize last year?
Use any herbicide or insecticide last year?

A vertical mower will definitely pull up some "thatch" but it is very hard on grasses with stolons (horizontal runners on top of the soil surface).

Well I don't think the lawn is *dead* maybe I need to clarify that. It just seems to be really slow to green up by comparison to those around it. There is definite green coming through, and after being out in it for an extended period of time, it does appear to be evening out (more of an equal mix of the two).

As far as what type of grass I have- I do not know that. I assume it's a mix-- perhaps Kentucky, Buffalo and fescue??? Honestly I have no clue so I don't know why I'm even guessing! I have contacted the county to find out who to contact to send in samples to have this confirmed.

Watering frequency has been difficult for me- the former owners I *think* installed their own sprinkler system and IMO it leaves quite a bit to be desired (they put leaker hoses on the same line as the regular lawn sprinklers but that's another story). I Spent a good portion of last Summer adjusting the sprinkler heads and trying to find out how often and how much water was needed. I had a very difficult time keeping my lawn green until I started watering 3-4 times a week and for up to an hour at a time which to me seemed excessive. My next door neighbor, by contrast, was only having to water 2-3 times a week, and for 45 minutes or so at a time (or so he said). I've still got work to do with the sprinklers for this year- maybe it's impossible but I'd like to get down to watering only 1-2 times a week and still maintain a green lawn.

As for fertilizer- I only use organic/natural fertilizers. No pesticides or commercial companies came to our home last year. The fertilizer I have is Pro-Rich Richlawn. I believe I fertilized twice last year- once in May, and again in Aug/early Sept.

Mowing height- between 2-3 inches depending on heat. In the early Spring I'll mow it shorter, but in the hot part of Summer I set the height higher.

Great answers! Thanks.

You do not seem to be enamored with having the 'correct' grass type. This is a good thing. The relaxed approach and the organic plan are an excellent match.

Although this is not the most important thing in lawn care, it is the easiest thing to do. Reset your mower for the highest setting. If it will go to 5 inches, put it there. It will probably only go to 3 or maybe 4 inches. Whatever - go to the highest.

Next go to the Organic Gardening forum and find the FAQs. There is a FAQ on Organic Lawn Care. Read that and see if you can save yourself some money.

Then work on your sprinkler. It could be that the grass will not respond until it gets up taller, but backing off on the watering will really cut down on any weeds you might have (or get). So far this year I have watered every other week (or so) from 1-3 hours per zone and my zones overlap by 50%. I dump a lot of water all at once. By letting the soil surface dry out between watering, any weed seeds do not have the right conditions for sprouting - thus it minimizes weeds. Tall grass also minimizes weeds.

Hope this helps. I just got called away to help with homework.

Good suggestions on the mowing height- We have gradually gone higher and higher as the season progresses, but perhaps we'll just leave it where it is now and see how it goes from here on out.

I'm envious of anyone who has figured out the right settings for their sprinklers to allow for deep infrequent watering. I've decided that I'm probably going to cap off the line to the leakers- I'd rather water them myself than have them get drenched with way too much water from being connected to the yard sprinklers! Hopefully that will allow me to play more with the sprinklers and get the results I want.

Thanks for the suggestions- and for reminding me about the organic gardening forum... :)

Take samples to your nearest WSU Cooperative Extension Service. They will identify your grass type. Call them first for sampling instructions.

Perhaps the tuna cans test (or use any straight-sided container) will help you calibrate the sprinkler system. Place them in various areas to obtain 1 inch of water in them and time how long it takes. Those that fall short tells which ones need adjusting. In-ground systems normally don't take as long as some other types, like the oscillating sprinklers. Yours might only take 20 or 30 minutes. During the hottest days of summer, like during a heatwave, it is probable you will have to water more than once a week. Divide the 1 inch in half and divide the time in half, which works out to half an inch of water twice a week. Otherwise, 1 inch once a week should be sufficient.

Great suggestion about the sprinkler system! THANK YOU!! I will definitely try the tuna can test and see what happens.

I have also emailed the WSU Cooperative in my area to find out where to go for testing... I haven't heard back yet but it's only been a day or so.