That PLs are usually found in riparian settings (streamside or in boggy environments) where they naturally occur is absolutely no cause to believe they will do well in boggy soils. They adapt well to various types of water culture, and perform very well in fast-draining, well-aerated soils, but should be expected to perform poorly when asked to make the transition in soils from lengthy periods of significant saturation to times when the soil has dried down and become reasonably well-aerated and more hospitable to the plant. The reason, as has been pointed out, is the fact that the plant will grow roots structured to allow the plant to deal with one or the other set of conditions, but not both in a cycle that starts with a long period of saturation transitioning to the more appropriate moist (rather than wet or soggy) medium. How well a soil drains is determined almost exclusively by the size of the particles it is comprised of. While the arrangement you have with the pot sitting above the effluent in the collection saucer is commendable, it has no impact on how well the soil drains or its level of aeration. 1. How often should I water? Intervals will vary with season, light load, amount of air movement, ....... Unless you use a soil that allows watering on a schedule as opposed to on an 'as needed' basis, and yours doesn't, you should absolutely stick to watering only when the plant gets dry to the point it needs water. In fact, in spite of the stress it would create, it would actually be better if you waited for this plant to exhibit signs of the first stage of wilt before you water than to water before the plant need it. I'm not advocating using drought stress indicators to signal the plants need for water - just trying to establish a feel for the idea that a little under-watering is less limiting than over-watering. For this plant, marking your watering date on the calendar and OCCASIONALLY waiting for the first signs of wilt to establish appropriate intervals between waterings is a reasonable strategy. If you'd rather, buy a wooden birch dowel rod (1/4 or 5/16") from a hardware or big box store. Cut into appropriate length pieces for your plants, sharpen the ends with a pencil sharpener, and use the pieces stuck deep into the pot as 'tells' that will let you know the moisture conditions deep in the pot. If they come out wet or stained dark from wet soil, withhold water until they come out clean. MUCH better than "watering gauges/meters". 2. What else can I do for this plant? The answer to that could easily fill a book. You could try reading this (click on link). I read someplace that liquid fertilizer once a month is good too. Yay or nay on that? To be meaningful, any advice regarding frequency of fertilizer applications has to take into consideration your soil choice and watering habits. For example, if you water in small sips to avoid your MG soil remaining soggy too long, a one month interval at the regular rate is an automatic problem for more than one reason, and the type of fertilizer as well as its NPK %s both play a part in determining the criticality of the issue. If you're using a soil that allows you to water at will w/o the need to fear consequences centering on the fact the soil will be saturated for a length of time measured in weeks, you can actually fertilize at low doses every time you water, which is how I choose to fertilize all my plants during the winter. One type of soil (those that are very water-retentive, like yours) make it almost impossible to maintain control over effective nutritional supplementation; other types of soil that support little or no saturation make establishing and maintaining a sound supplementation program monkey easy. Al

I've had mine go completely bone dry before finally beginning to wilt. This wasn't intentional, I only mention it to point out that the wilting isn't from underwatering. Peace lilies love water, but their roots also love fresh air, so drainage is a must. I would also advise giving it much brighter indirect sunlight. Just because some plants can tolerate low light levels, it doesn't mean that they prefer it that way. Never seek advice from a big box employee. For most of them, it's just a job; they're paid to be there. They don't care about providing accurate advice. You're better off seeking out someone shopping there that actually wants to be there. More often than not, that's where you'll find me, HaHa. I've certainly helped other shoppers whenever they needed it.

HU....85 plants? You sound like a person after my own heart! My problem is not that I only have large plants (the addition I put on the house really needed about a 15-ft. ceiling) but that there are too many big ones, which is why I got into the 'suck the overflow out of the saucer with a baster' method rather than lifting them up into the drip trays I use. I must confess to basically watering 'on a schedule' - once a week. If a plant truly seems like it doesn't need it, it'll have to wait till the following week, so perhaps one of the reasons my soil mix works for me is indeed that I've got extra water retention that suits this 'water now or next time' approach.. It also probably contributes to having plants not dry out and require additional water when they normally would with a less retentive mix while we travel for sometimes several weeks (gosh...will we ever do that again...in quite the same way? A hot topic for another forum...) I hate to ask other family members to spend more time here than truly necessary - so i plan for them to water every 9-10 days. Never had a problem with that either. I used to go bananas with all this stuff - fussing and fretting, keeping feeding charts on every plant (seriously), using those moisture readers that you stick in the pots and so would wind up watering plants randomly throughout the week. For me, that all started to take way too much time in the general scheme of things - so I figured that my collection would either 'make it or break it' based on a new and far simpler plan. If all this qualifies me as maybe being a neglectful and less than truly devoted plant hobbyist, I plead guilty! Nonetheless, most of the plants are still here. A bit of a Darwinistic approach I imagine. Sorry if I went way over the top in issuing advice to Emberly and not considering her level of experience. I thought that much of what I said was actually pretty basic and hopefully of some use. I'm quite used to bringing explanations down to a simplified level being that my entire career was spent teaching elementary instrumental music beginners - ages 10-12. I'm not new here - and go way back into when it was just the garden web. I was actually quite dismayed when the whole thing was usurped into "Houzz" and had a heck of time getting my username to log in - seem to recall going through several different names (was finally assigned one) before I was able to get back in, so, yeah, I probably go back 20+ years also here. Anyway, all that being said, a quick change of topic (I'll also post on the perennials forum for this) - anyone have trouble getting their irises to bloom? It's so frustrating - they come up, look great, but then....nothing. No blooms, except for some patches. It's not like some of the ones that aren't blooming have been where they are for decades either - since I know the need to occasionally divide and move things around, etc. I have some I just planted a few years ago in new locations, and they don't bloom either. Then again, I must be the only person in my county who has trouble getting forsythia to bloom - no matter when I cut it. Guess I better stick to peace lillies.... 😏 Getting back to vermiculite one final time - it works for me. I've never taken a plant out of pot (the needs repotting) and found the "soggy mess" referred to around the roots. Quite the opposite - often if the plant has not been newly watered before repotting (not a great idea anyway), the soil just falls away from the roots - too much actually. I go through this every year since I bring annuals in every fall, then put them out again in spring. Often, everything just breaks apart too easily. I wish it would clump together a bit more sometimes. Oh well, at least I have fewer years ahead of me than behind relative to working with all this. I'm trying to break out of the 'what we own starts to own us' mode - since it truly can happen however insidiously. The plants can be a contributing factor to this as well - since we are ultimately beholden to them for whatever care they require. I hate to lose any; however, In the eventual downsize and move at some point to a smaller property - it'll probably be a big yard sale and thus the inevitable parting from some longtime friends of the flora variety. Kind of tough to send a 12-ft. dracaena through eBay ☺️

looks severely sunburned ... i would tip it out of the pot.. and look at the roots ... if rotted.. be done with it ... if active with new growth ... i would put it back in the pot.. and water properly for a month or 3.. and see if new leaves appear ... any leaf with green can still process light into energy ... and i would only cut one off for each new one that emerges .. if in 2 or 3 months.. its settled down.. destressed.. i would repot it as suggested above ... i dont like to heap stress upon stress .. lets deal with one at a time ... if you want to go thru all that.. or any derivation therein ... just to see if you can save it.. go for it.. but if its going to piss you off every time you look at it.. just be done with it.. and move on to a new plant .... ken