So I am concerned the "mulching" electric mower did not break up the leaves I expected it to mulch sufficiently. We have leaves here in New England that come off the trees in the fall and cover the lawn. I read several articles from "experts" that mowing them should provide good feed for the grass. I took more photos recently that show the comparison between my lawn and the neighbors. If you zoom into the "holes" you can see bits of leaves. I am not sure if its a cause or effect but can't imagine how leave chunks would help the grass? I was hoping they would decompose now some months after being semi-mulched and under snow/ice/rain but they still are there. west side of house view from second story, west side East side. The above photo foreground shows the area that was hyrdro-seeded. It has a weird radial lines thing going, not sure if that's from the way it was sprayed which was from the direction of the street by a truck in 15 minutes? south-facing side

I live in the Lake District in England at sea level on Morecambe Bay, I used a sports grass seed so low growing, as for watering, As the name suggests, God does all the watering around here, often, Even in summer the ground is still moist

Is that at UMASS soil test? Most people think their soil is crap, but their soil test proves them wrong. Your soil might be the exception. It looks more like coal mine tailings than soil. I don't think I've ever seen a pH of 4.5. Does it burn your skin? The pH of vinegar is 3. Okay enough commentary. Ridgerunner is the guy you need to look at that test. Now is a poor time to seed a lawn. If you want to continue with poor results, then you could do it now. By July you'll have a crabgrass lawn. The best time to seed is in the early fall. That would be late August for you. Summer weeds (like Crabgrass) are not sprouting in the early fall, so the summer weed pressure is toned down. Plus seeding in the fall gives the grass time to develop a root system that can withstand the summer heat. The good news is that you can use a preemergent herbicide (not mixed with fertilizer) NOW and not have to worry about grass seed. Don't fertilize until Memorial Day...unless Ridgerunner has other ideas. Memorial Day is a good date for normal lawns. If you get a lot of crabgrass year after year, you might be watering wrong. I live in South Texas where we don't get a lot of moisture and have had temps in the mid 80s already. Still I have not watered the lawn yet and don't have any immediate plans to. The occasional rains we get have been plenty of moisture. Frequent watering is exactly what the summer weed seeds need. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

No buffer pH reported. You didn't ask for one? Please see my post on your prior thread. See my comments regarding UMASS lime recs in this thread: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/4581941/massachusetts-lawn-soil-test-help?n=7 New pH values are close enough to be treated the same. so the same amount of lime can/should now be applied to both. Either use the UMASS recs or guesstimate the amount of lime to apply this year based on what you applied last year. For some reason your potassium is moving down quite a bit. For fertilizer recs use the recommendations that UMASS supplied with the soil test results. If you use starter fertilizer, use it only in the back. If push comes to shove, apply a 10-10-10 type fertilizer at bag rate June, September and October 1. Apply a very high N and vey low phos and potassium fertilizer after the grass stops growing-Thanksgiving time.