I know you're not going to want to hear this, but you probably shouldn't even try a spring tall fescue seeding in Georgia for many reasons. First issue, killing Bermuda is no small feat. From what I have heard it's not just a matter of one Round-up application. Texas-Weed (a regular on this forum) will probably chime in on how to kill Bermuda. Second issue, seeding tall fescue in spring in Georgia is basically a no win situation. You will be watering and feeding weeds since you can't use preemergents other than Tupersan (crabgrass pre-m), and herbicides are a no no. Third issue, the high heat and humidity. Cool season grass (tall fescue being one) is very vulnerable to high heat when it is young. Also with all the heat, and watering you will be doing, lawn disease will have an ideal environment to flourish. Fourth issue, the shade. Grass likes sun. Sure tall fescue is more shade tolerant than most, but it won't live up to it's full potential in heavy shade, especially when it's seeded in spring. Any grass you plant will be better off if you remove trees or at the least thin out some of the canopy. Just for the record there is a new variety of Bermuda grass that can tolerate shade called Tifgrand. If you lose some of the trees it might be perfect for you. If you want to plant tall fescue you should wait till early fall when day temps are in the high seventies, and night temps are in the fifties.

You certainly have some issue to overcome. Let me just shoot from the hip:
-Bermuda and TTF (turf tall fescue) don't play nice together. Bermuda is cut 1" or less, TTF 3+ inches.
-Bermuda won't thrive in shade (with exception to a new sod called TifGrand, unproven yet).
-TTF really struggles in GA during the very hot months. Need an irrigation system and we all pay $$ for water here.
Probably need to overseed every fall, too. Spring seading in GA is very difficult.

I guess your best option would be a blend of fescues. Someone else will know better. I have bermuda and love it.

Dang guys (gals?). Thanks for the input, but I was afraid... very afraid, that I might hear what you're telling me. Like many around here, I came from homes that had plenty of sun available (in other words, no trees!). This house is on a wonderfully wooden 2 acre lot, but I have no idea how to deal with this lawn. Apparently the prior owners didn't have much success either.

I prefer the Bermuda grass because that's what I've had and I'm familiar with it. Getting rid of the trees may not be the best answer, the neighbors and those over in the tree forum will get me (I asked about cutting some trees over in the tree forum a few months ago and you would have thought I was clubbing baby seals).

I thought that Fall was the best time to install Fescue, but some friends were saying that Spring was OK too? Anyway, I think what I may do is just manage the weeds and dirt for now and see exactly how the sun and shade work over the summer (when we moved in, the trees had already lost most of their leaves). Maybe it won't be as bad as I think and I can try out that shade tolerant Bermuda.

Thanks again for the info.

Clubbing baby seals? Our version of that is tilling the area to become a lawn. DON'T! So basically you need a lawn care mental make over. I'll get to that for you. It is pretty easy but it is equally easy to really do it wrong.

I would suggest a grass called Shadow Turf. It is a variety of zoysia that really does grow in the shade. I'll post a picture after saying a few words about it. Shadow Turf was developed in West Texas at Texas Tech University along with Frontier Hybrids, a corn hybriding lab, in Abernathy, Texas. The owner had an interest in grasses and got two really good ones on the market before he passed away. The other one is Tech Turf, a buffalo grass hybrid. Tech Turf requires FULL sun while Shadow Turf only tolerates full sun. Shadow Turf really thrives in the shade. In the photo below, the Shadow Turf is under an English walnut tree. I had to duck to walk under the tree, so the canopy is probably down to 4-5 feet. You can see the density of the shade from the sunlight coming through the tree. The house faces west and has a huge tree across the street. Sunlight on the grass is limited to just a couple hours from noon to 3pm.

{{gwi:80716}}

That lawn was plugged on 12-inch centers about 18 months before I took the picture. The location is Abernathy, TX (obviously not a coincidence - Abernathy is a one-horse town). The reason I took that pic was to show where the grass had not quite fully filled in after 18 months. That spot is the least sunny part of the yard and probably receives no direct sunlight at all. Still the 1-inch grass plugs had spread to six inches or so in diameter. Clearly the rest of the lawn had filled in. Shadow Turf is a very dense, sod forming turf that might work for you in your application.

Another variety of shade tolerant zoysia is called UC Verde. It was developed in California. It has a good reputation for the short time it has been out. I would check prices for both. Shadow Turf is not cheap. I paid about $85 for a flat of plugs.

It spreads quickly, though, once it pops. I planted in May and by mid July I thought it was dead. SUDDENLY it was everywhere. It had been sending rhizomes around underground, and they all popped at once.

Shadow Turf is moderately compatible with bermuda. Both can be mowed very low. Shadow Turf can also grow taller but when you do that, it is like bermuda in that when you mow the blades off the stems, it looks stemmy and brown. Getting the blades back on the ST takes a little time. It works much better mowed low and/or mowed often.

Here are the basics of lawn care (lawn care mental make over). If you follow these guidelines you'll be okay even if all you have is weeds.

2. Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an hour in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds.

3. Mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. Bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses are the most dense when mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. Dense grass shades out weeds and uses less water when tall. Dense grass feeds the deep roots you're developing in 1 above.

4. Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 4 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above.
   

Just sharing what I was told. My neighbour, who is a turf grower, said that it’s better to lay a turf in cooler months because the lawn won’t need too much water. I remember before laying my Sir Walter, it was during the summer months and I got no problem. It’s because my turf can tolerate extreme heat and only requires a little water. She’ll be right!

Here is a link that might be useful: Sir Walter