Hello! I've got Sunflower grafts doing well from KSU ...need to trim them any day ... would LOVE to trade for Brown Turkey Fig plant? Get back to me...I'm in Sacramento, CA and could package & ship tomorrow or Monday?

Cuzn. I looked up the pdf you mentioned. Not how I do my bark grafts, but there are probably as many variations of a given grafting technique as there are grafters. Konrad, who's a frequent poster here, does his a little differently, as well - but it's a graft that takes quite nicely, and it's easy to do. My technique: Behead the rootstock with your pruners. Make a single vertical slit in the rootstock bark. Make a long, sloping cut in the base of your scion - just as you would for a simple whip graft. Now, shave some bark off the two 'long' sides, to expose some cambium tissue on the lateral edges. Gently 'lift' the edges of the slit in the rootstock bark and slide the scion down into the slit, until the cambium at the 'top' of your sloping basal cut is just above the level of the beheaded top of the rootstock. I wrap the union and scion with parafilm, then overwrap with rubber band - or sometimes, just with a couple layers of masking tape, if it's something that will callus in rapidly, like pears. For nut trees, I do a 'sap-stopper' modification of the graft above - instead of completely beheading the rootstock, I just cut 3/4-7/8 of the way through the stock and break the top over, leaving it attached, to serve as a sap-drawer/pressure relief valve, as nut trees often tend to bleed excessively. After the scion calluses in and growth commences, you can come back and snip off the still-attached top of the rootstock. Osborn's technique, as outlined in the pdf, may actually be a sturdier graft, less prone to 'blow-out/break-out' than mine - might try a few that way this year. I have done simple whip grafts on persimmon, with 100% success rate, before someone told me that persimmons are hard to graft. (They're NOT. But, aftercare, for at least the first growing season, IS.) Here is a link that might be useful: Grafting persimmons.

..Following up on this thread, my persimmons are finally leafing out. It is surprising how long they took. I am guessing it was also not hot enough for them, we had a very cool period there compared to the norm. Someone told me they prefer 75-85F for callousing. The jujubes all are growing as well but again with a big delay. The figs didn't take; I think they may have dried out, they were not protected at all. The grapes are all toast. I then did some chip buds on them which should be about ready to force now. I should have also green grafted some but never got around to it. Here is the summary of estimated best temperatures: apples - cool but they are somewhat flexible (50-75) peaches, apricots, cherries - mild is important (60-80) grapes, kiwis, persimmons, jujubes(?) - warmth is needed (75-85) pears, plums - not picky pawpaws, figs - ? Scott

@jianhuayegreentree, I have uploaded a picture. Two cicles are the areas of two branches i grafted early spring but they did not survive finally. They are the only branches at that time. All other branches are the new growrh this year. I will try to graft again next year. preferably, i would like not to cut the main trunk but any other branches will be fine. i can choose the topmost two branches (two red lines) other than the main trunk to graft. do you think what the probability for them to survive? i am thinking it may be easier for scion to survive when tree become bigger because the growth vogor will reduce so the competition between scion and other growth may not be that strong. how big is your tree that you had grafted successfully? A picture of the tree and the growth condition of the survived brach would be very helpful. Thanks for the comments. @jianhuayegreentree.