Venus, how long have you had the plant? If you just bought it, then repotted it, it may set it back a little, due to all of the adjusting it's going thru.

Even if you've had it for awhile, it's probably going thru a little shock.

How big of a pot did you re-pot it in? They say no bigger tha 2 fingers width between the rootball and the sides of the pot.

Give it a little more time. I would'nt take it out of the pot anymore to examine it. Everytime you do that you set it back again.

Hope this helps,
Maid~

I agree w/ the above comments.

Normally when repotting, one makes sure the plant is well pushed down into the pot to help it have good contact w/ the new mix & settle in. I push it down into the pot w/ my hands & then add in new mix all around the plant. When done, I often knock the pot against a table a couple of times; it settles the mix, knocks out any air bubbles.

I agree abt not turning it out to check on it; that disrupts any new roots ones trying to establish. The surest indicator of a plant's having put down roots is when you see new top growth.

It might have gone through "transplant shock." It's best to break a plant's rootball when repotting it and then give it a good watering. One way to break the rootball if it's already in a new pot is to take a long knife (or similar size object) and stick it in the pot in a few times and that might help.

Pl's like a lot of humidity. I have a huge one (4' wide x 4' tall) as well as a smaller one. I have to pick them up to take them to the tub for watering, while I'm at it, I turn the hot (hottest) water on, shut the door, set the timer for 15 mins. When the timer goes off, turn off the water, keep the door closed until most of the steam is gone. I have two bathrooms so I leave mine in the bathroom all day. They really seem to like the humidity.

Please don't fertilize your PL until it has recovered from whatever it's going thru. That is a sure way to bring it closer to death.

Also, make sure the new pot has good drainage holes, as well as fast draining soil. One thing PL hate is to have their feet too wet. If there is a saucer under your plant for drainage, make sure it gets dumped after watering. . . again, no wet feet.

Just more info to add to your confusion. . . sorry. Hope this helps. . .

Maid~

Maid - I hope with all the drought in this country you are saving that water and not just letting running it down the drain.

Venus, it might well come down to how big the pot is that you changed it to....as suggested, it is recommended anytime you replant to go up one size only.
What happens if you go up too much, the soil is given that much more water and the roots are able to go further afield to retrieve nutrition. Many plants do well when pot-bound.
Your reason was reasonable, the plant was breaking the pot.

But, the peace lily is a very easy plant to divide. So if you feel the plant is getting too big for its britches, then why not think to cut it down to size.

As suggested in another post on this subject--repotting--it is thought best to do this in the spring when we wish to encourage new growth.

Hi there jeanni7, it's mid spring where I am now; I resisted repotting the PL all winter, as I figured it would 'recover' faster (obviously not)

I actually have a 2nd PL I really think needs repotting but when I was last inspecting it, I noticed at least 4 baby blooms nestled at the bottom of the leaves. Disturbing the plant now would hurt the development of those flowers right...?

I would think so....gosh, if you've got a Peace Lily coming into bloom please don't do anything to disturb it; I've been trying for years to get my one single plant to bloom....now is four plants after I divided it last summer.
I've yet to get my plant to bloom yet I'm trying in every way to do what it likes.

The best time to repot your PL is in summer, when blooming is waning or stopped altogether. How large the pot can/should be is not dictated by the rote formula 'one size larger', but by the three-way relationship between plant size, container size, and the physical characteristics of the soil. If someone uses a blanket statement to suggest that you only pot up one size, without knowledge of all three factors, it speaks to a lack of understanding of the 3-way relationship mentioned. You can grow very, very small plants in very, very large pots if the soil is appropriate.

We should also try to understand that no plant will "do well when it's pot-bound" if you are using a plant with plenty of room for its roots as a comparison. If plants did better growing under root-bound conditions, Mother Nature would have arranged for in situ plants to grow with their roots in tight little cones or cubes, yet we never see that occur.

While it's true that we may be able to use the STRESS of our plants being root-bound to bend plants to our will and achieve OUR goals, the fact is that this serves US well, and not the plant. Growth - increase in biomass - is the measure of how "well" a plant is doing. Tight roots restrict growth and reduces the potential increase in mass, so even if we THINK plants are doing well because we use the stress of tight roots to get them to bloom or grow in a particular habit, the truth is they would rather have plenty of room for their roots to grow so they could grow as mother nature intended. No one is more aware of the negative influence tight roots has on growth than the bonsai practitioner who uses that tool extensively to bind down the plant's growth habits so the will of the grower, not the plant, prevails.

Al