Your picture looks familiar. Something similar to this happened to my peach tree last year right before it died. It was due to over watering. Apparently I had a raised pond next to the tree and it sprung a leak saturating the soil around the tree during its growing season. It didn't help that I also have clay soil which retains a lot of water and my peach tree was planted in the lowest part of the yard. All these factors worked against the tree's survival. The moisture level was too much for the tree to handle and the roots started to rot, eventually the leaves became yellow and shriveled. The fruits stopped growing in size and slowly became dry and shriveled as well. I stopped watering the plant once I figured out the tree was getting too much water but the damage was already done and there was no way to remove the hundred gallons of water absorbed by the clay soil which came from my leaking fish pond. The tree eventually died. Peach trees are extremely sensitive to over watering. Well drained soil is a must. If you have clay soil like I do, it's probably best to plant your future peach tree on a sloped part of the yard where the water drains away from the tree. Another option is to plant it in a raised bed to help with drainage. You could also mix sand in with your soil to make it less clay-like (which I find to be too much work). Also, keep an eye on the soil moisture especially during the growing season (spring through summer). If the soil is damp, the tree doesn't need to be watered. Good luck. I hope your tree recovers. Mine didn't.

No need to spray it. It's very unlikely you have any foliage pest that would match the symptoms you describe. From the rainfall you mention, Desifern is probably correct. Simply too much water. Peach trees are very sensitive to drowning. I've lost lots of peach trees from soggy roots. Sometimes a peach tree will die of drowning in a spot, but another spot just 20' away may have just enough drainage to allow a peach tree to live. Since I've started planting my peach trees in mounds, I've yet to loose one from drowning. My guess is the tree got enough water stress, it's trying to reject the graft. Strip off all the growth below the graft, and watch to see if any new growth appears above the graft. If it does, do as Frank suggests and prune to allow the new growth to take off. I wouldn't go to great measures trying to quarantine any root pathogens from this tree. Phytophthora is pretty much ubiquitous in wet soils anyway. Whether it's phytophthora or wet feet, planting your next peach in a mound will solve both types of root problems.

I've always felt that I needed the good mechanical pull that a budding rubber provides, and to keep it from drying out I think it needs to be sealed with parafilm or wax. Parafilm is my first choice because it breathes a little. But it's not enough by itself to make me feel secure! I used the Ace rubber tape this year on clefts and felt like it worked really well. Rubber tape or bands or rubbers all seem good to me. I think that if you use the wide budding rubbers or tape and overlap thoroughly then the parafilm/wax precaution is probably redundant, but it's cheap redundancy and I do it. I use wide and long rubbers also because it's easier to wrap them off- you have so much to work with, and they're cheap enough that you can afford to cut off excess. Like MiHiGirl I'm in the Rockies, but not at a mile high! We're at 3200 ft, give or take a couple of feet. But it's definitely an arid environment: we get about 12-13 inches total precip per year.

Renew young stems= cutting the previous years worth of stems and letting the young ones grow? I was under the impression that the reason I wasnt getting any fruit was due to the fact that NO stems would survive into the following season, so the first third of the season was wasting time growing limbs instead of fruit. TRUE or FALSE? True:--You Protect all stems best you can and only in THE SPRING,you CUT Oldest ones Leaving YOUNG HEALTHY ONES ALONE,so the tree is still healthy and in one piece.----You do not cut everything down to grownd because if you do the tree,will be late in maturing fruits.----You only cut 2 to 3 old stems leaving 5 to 8 young stems alone.---Those cut out old stems will produce three sucker each wich you leave it alone because you will need them in the future years.This is an ongoing Process but with a little care it can give very good results.When new sucker grow you pinch and keep them small so they do not take light away from fruit producing STEMS.---Yet you do not pull them completelly out of grownd because they are your future RENEWAL Stems.CAPICHE,MIa Cara