Tag says Ficus benjamina but looks like a Philo

11 years ago

Another Philo? Obviously not Ficus benjamina like the tag says!

What is that white stuff that store-bought plants always have on them at first? I've been wondering this for so long. Hopefully a few more rains will get rid of it but it stays on some plants a LONG time unless I want to wash each leaf.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (15)

goddess9
11 years ago
Anthurium. Not sure of the exact species.

Misplaced tags are my #1 pet peeve. I usually take them out of the soil and lay them on the shelf.

White stains could be hard water stains.
Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author
11 years ago
Thanks, but Ooooh NO! I'll admit when I've killed this thing. Hope I get a flower first.

I don't usually mind missing/wrong tags, but now look what I've done. Hoping this story has a different ending!

I didn't know leaves could get hard water stains, interesting. Thanks for the info!
Related Discussions
Id this plant
Q
Comments (13)
ok so its a match to emerald green! I have never heard of this plant before, I did not however see any plants with open blooms...so I cut one off and open it. It looks like a white spath bloom...once the blooms open I will post pictures for sure! Thank you all so much with this ID!
...See More
Ficus benjamina (& most other commonly grown tropical Ficus)
Q
Comments (64)
@JMJ 4Life Really sorry to learn about your tree. I assume some part of the root mass is fused, so the soil/root mass remains intact like so: If the answer is yes, unpot the plant and set the root/soil mass on a stack of newspapers, rags, old towels, dry sponges - something that will PULL excess water from the soil. Allow it to rest on the wicking material for an hour or two before returning it to the pot it fits. Use a wooden "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water, because with no water loss from foliage, the plant will require very little water. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips in order to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions - which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma and creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell' (more reliable than a 'moisture meter'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) works better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half or in several pieces, depending on how deep your pots are. Sharpen both ends of each tell in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell's tip comes out nearly dry. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al
...See More
Help with my ficus benjamina please
Q
Comments (3)
Timing is a primary consideration, often determining whether repotting or potting up is the wise choice. For you at this juncture, potting up if required is the wise choice. Repotting non-temperate plants, which includes removing all or most of the old soil and root-pruning, is best undertaken in the month prior to the plant's most robust growth period for a very high % of plants commonly grown indoors, yours included. That translates to July for you. While potting up can be undertaken at any time, you should probably avoid spring repots of Ficus, as the plant will most likely have the lowest energy reserve level of the entire growth cycle, ensuring a long recovery period and increased likelihood of susceptibility to insects and disease due to the additional weakening subsequent to repotting. Repotting is an essential part of maintaining all trees in containers, if you expect the plant to grow at or near its genetic potential. Repotting ensures the plant will at least have the opportunity to grow to its potential within the limits of all other cultural influences, while simply potting up ensures it will not. It is important to mechanically secure the plant so it will not move in relation to its container. A secure plant establishes/reestablishes in a fraction of the time that it takes for unsecured plants. If it was my plant, I would make some deep vertical cuts in the root mass with a very sharp utility knife, and score a deep 'X' on the bottom, or saw off the bottom 1/4 of the roots and pot up into a slightly larger container until next summer. Move the plant outdoors as soon as temps allow, acclimating it to full sun, & let the plant gain strength so it recovers from next summer's repot quickly. You might find this info about tending Ficus trees in containers helpful. And this thread that contains lots of info about trees in containers and repotting should have some info especially helpful to you. Good luck. ..... additional questions? Al
...See More
Switching larger ficus Benjamina to gritty mix?
Q
Comments (45)
Plastic pot with holes on the side would certainly allow more air to get in quicker. I had done that once. I had to be more careful watering since some of the water will exit from the holes leaving less to reach the bottom and the core. If the soil dries out a bit too much it will shrink a bit and create an air space around the pot. So more water tends to escape through the holes when watering from the top. Dunking it in a tub of water is a lot safer.
...See More
goddess9
11 years ago
What did you do to it that may have killed it?

I hope so, too. Keep us posted!

I'm almost 100% certain they can. They're really annoying. :(
Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author
11 years ago
I haven't done anything to this plant but water it when it got fully dry. I've killed a bunch of these before but if, as I hope, the problem was not enough light, that shouldn't be a problem here in AL. A plant I really like but would have been hesitant to spend money on (even $2.50) if I had known what it was first. Nobody told me to buy an incorrectly labeled plant, which I knew it was.

That would make sense (hard water deposit) why the rain doesn't wash it off well, if at all. Surprised I'm not seeing more of that from using the hose.

Thanks again!
rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
11 years ago
There are lots of ways to clean those stubborn spots off. I've used a soft cloth and a solution of an oil based true soap such as Dr. Bonner 's, Green Mountain liquid, or even Murphy 's. A gentle rubbing while holding the leaf in the palm of your hand will do the trick. I suggest that you clean both sides of the leaves. Deposits like that can clog the stomata (pores), most of which are located on the bottom of the leaf.
birdsnblooms
11 years ago
Purple, yep, your new plant is Anthurium. Never trust tags in big box stores. Most are generic reading, Tropical Plant. lol. Customers often remove a tag then place in a different pot.

They aren't the easiest plants, but not the most difficult either.
Anthurium should do well in your location.

Will you summer outdoors?

I'm not sure of its species, but it resembles A. 'Red Hot.' Thinner leaf types do not like direct, summer sunlight.
During growing season, they are thirsty.
Mine are set in the sink until soil is completely drenched. 'When I'm not feeling lazy, lol'

Spots can be water stains or chemical residue.
Wash leaves with soapy water, rinse well, then dry with a soft cloth. That should do it. Toni
Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author
11 years ago
Thanks, guys! Washing leaves is on my list, not real high up, but it's on there. Most of it seems to be on the top of the leaves. Pls send good vibes to this plant, thanks!
User
11 years ago
I agree about an Anthurium. I don't have great luck w / these myself, yet recently allowed another one in who had cart jumped me, while I looked away for a moment.

I split mine in 2 & am trying half in Hydro, maybe I'll have better luck there.

These are Aroids Purple, maybe you & I should BOTH go to the Aroid Forum & read up on Anthuriums, I'm getting tired of killing them.
User
11 years ago
Hey Rhizo,

Hiya, thanks for the tips that quite useful. I rarely do it but am pleased to learn safest ways.
variegatednancy1
11 years ago
Sometimes greenhouses spray for any possibility of bugs before sending a shipment. This could be residue from spraying--or,as you said, it may just be from water.

Nancy
Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author
11 years ago
Thanks for the replies!

...go to the Aroid Forum & read up on Anthuriums.
I guess so, hopefully we will succeed! That does give me hope since most of my plants, as I'm learning, are Aroids. Apparently I like them a lot. Just hope it doesn't "sense my fear" and go for the kill! LOL.

...recently allowed another one in who had cart jumped me, while I looked away for a moment.
Uh-huh, suuuuure! Did it have a flower already?

v-nancy, that may be it, guess that's probably a good thing, it sucks to bring home buggies!

Toni, sorry, forgot to answer your question before. Yes, this is outside. It's on the east end but if it keeps not burning, I might move it to the west end, a little more intense. What do you think?
Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author
11 years ago
The Aroid forum needs some upbeat music or something, kinda sleepy in there...
Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author
11 years ago
Lookin good so far for this one, 2 new leaves

{{gwi:90523}}
Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author
11 years ago
I think this is going 2 make 2 flowers...? The taller, skinnier things look just like the previous 2 new leaves that have opened (while they were forming,) but the shorter, fatter things are different. Hoping they're going to be spathes! (Hoping that's the right word.) I've bought these with the "flower" already on, but never had one grow a flower in my presence.

{{gwi:90524}}

{{gwi:90525}}
goddess9
11 years ago
Looks like it. My spathes come out from the base of the leaves. Good job!

Tag says Ficus benjamina but looks like a Philo

Comments (15)

goddess9

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author

Related Discussions

goddess9

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author

rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

birdsnblooms

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author

User

User

variegatednancy1

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author

goddess9

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Tag says Ficus benjamina but looks like a Philo

Comments (15)

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, ALOriginal Author

Related Discussions

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, ALOriginal Author

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, ALOriginal Author

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, ALOriginal Author

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, ALOriginal Author

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, ALOriginal Author

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, ALOriginal Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author

Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
Original Author