Alright, so thanks for all the good advice, though in the end that way didn't work out for me, as I will be out of town for the next two weeks and couldn't get things in time to get them into the ground before leaving. So I decided to make do with what I can get locally, and try to make the best out of it. There's always next year and better planning to extend or do over what I started now. So I got three apple trees between 2 and 3 years old, I think. It'll give me an opportunity to compare the different local sources. Tree 1, the cheapest one ($19) is from Home Depot, Golden Delicious (Dwarf). What was very noticable when planting is that the tree was apparently just stuck into a pot a short time ago, there were was not much on it in terms of roots at all, and the potting mix fell right off. Because of that, and the kinda screwed-up structure, I pruned that tree heavily: Golden Delicious before: and after pruning: I got a $59 Dwarf Honeycrisp tree from a local expensive-ish nursery. However, that tree is 3 if not 4 years old (can't remember now). It had a couple of fruit buds on it, most of which fell victim to my pruning. This tree was in a big pot with an extensive root system, so it must have been grown in this pot for quite some time. I had to untangle / cut lots of circling roots. The shape still isn't that great, the lower branches are at 45 degrees, but I'll keep them and see how it goes. A second, higher, scaffold was started, but it's only short spurs at this time. Honeycrisp tree before pruning I didn't prune it that heavily yet, but looking at the close-up, I think I need to prune off most of the leader (down into two-year old wood) in order to get the 2nd scaffold to grow (hopefully). Does that sound right? I'll try to train down the lower branches, though they're not very flexible anymore. Finally, I got Liberty, semi-dwarf from another nursery at $29, and one to hopefully give me a break on disease. This one is two-years old, has a well developed lower scaffold made from 3 branches. Root-wise, it was so-so. Apparently it is a vigorous grower, as last season the central leader grew more than 3, if not 4 feet. I headed it quite a bit down to start a 2nd scaffold, and I'm trying to train the 1 scaffold to grow more outwards then up (it's currently kinda curved, leaving the trunk at a good angle but then turning upwards. Should I head the side branches? If so, at what point? Liberty before pruning: That's what it currently looks like (except that I used bamboo stakes to straighten the branches): I got no experience with pruning at all, other than what I learned from the internet, so any advice is very welcome. Also, I already got bugs on the Honeycrisp, some very tiny beetles or something, all black, which are apparently munching on the just opening buds (small holes in the new leaves already). Should I do something about them? If so, what? Thanks ;)

Its better to spray when the buds have swelled some, such a spray timing is called "delayed dormant". Up to 1/2" of green leaves showing and you are fine. Scott

A planting hole really depends on the soil. I have seen some soil so incredibly rich and friable that you literally dig a hole big enough for the root ball and drop it in. For heavy clay, the digging out 4 feet is likely a good idea to get the initial soil loose for the growing roots to spread out. Tamping works (to remove air pockets) [you can use the shovel handle] BUT since you dug out the hole to loosen the dirt why would you want to compress the soil back around the roots? It seems a better method is to shake the tree in th esoil filled hole back and forth slightly up and down (vibrate it) while filling the hole with water. This collapses any air pockets without compressing the soil. As for depth, it is at worst as deep as the root flare. The rule is a couple of inches shy of the root flare height so the tree will settle in and NOT be below grade. A tree planted above grade is fine, below grade (too deep) will ultimately die from it. Heavy clay means water retention, slow and wide water infiltration and long watering to get the water to penetrate down three feet as needed. If your area has problems with root rot you might consider raised bed planting. Do not water too frequently or anaerobic conditions will develop which will kill the tree. I never stake trees. I especially see no need in heavy soil...it should hold. If you do, two wooden stakes planted outside the root ball, perpendicular to the prevailing winds at the time of planting. Measure about where you think the support should be applied and it should likely be LOOSELY tied about 2/3rds the way down from where you figured it should be tied. Just my experience. You want the lower trunk to not move but the greater part of the the upper to freely move. Lastly, after it is tied saw off the stakes a few inches above the ties; this prevents the tree from beating itself against the stakes. Tie the tree off with nursery tape or some other binding that will not cut into the trunk. The tree's roots should have grown out in 6-12 weeks and allow removal of the stakes but if you want you can leave them in until the tree goes dormant before removal. Just remember the longer the tree is staked the wimpier the trunk. I like to soak bare roots in a garbage pail for at least 2 hours, overnight or up to 24 hours (what ever is convenient) right before planting to rehydrate the roots. Some nurseries do not think this is needed. I don't see how it hurts. I use Superthrive now to soak the trees as it appears to actually improve recovery which really surprised me. Your local planting traditions apply: Test drainage? Orient the graft junction in a specific orientation? Paint the trees? Supplements? (I suspect this is a bad idea anywhere since trees must grow into areas without the supplementation eventually but I leave it to local wisdom generally provided...

First, let me apologize for not responding sooner! I've read and enjoyed all your posts, the holiday weekend just got hectic, and the nice weather had me outside! Have to take advantage when we can around here! We seem to have plenty of bees, mostly bumbles and yellow jackets. Not sure the yellow jackets are pollinators, but when things start to bloom---especially clover, lots of bumbles show up! My husband does a regular spray for both disease and pests, he's conservative but does spray. I've wondered about the cross-pollination issue. Yet the trees do seem to set fruit most years, it just never develops into good size fruit and usually ends up on the ground before it develops. It's usually misshapen and very small. I have seriously wondered if we have an issue with contaminated soil in the entire yard. We have a strange phenomena with ALL our trees. They grow at a strange angle. All seem to lean from just a few degrees to very noticeable (to the S/SE). They all lean in the same direction. My first thought was a sun issue, but even when we bought the home 30+ years ago the trees grew that way and the yard was very open with lots of sun. I remember a pear tree (heavy producer) that was small and very old that had a very distinctive lean and it was in the middle of the yard. If there is a contamination issue I doubt soil testing would give an answer as I suspect it is a deep in the soil issue. Shallow root plants seem to do well. I live in the area between McChord AFB and Fort Lewis where there have been many Superfund sites for many years with water table contamination. But that still doesn't explain why my neighbors have good producing fruit trees! I'm beginning to think maybe we just chose poor varieties, though when we planted the Buckley King I thought it was developed for this area. I don't think I have ever seen a fruit on it. reg_pnw7 I went to your site and checked your cross-pollination chart---maybe the fact that it is a Gravenstein hybrid is the problem, though the Golden Delicious flowers profusely and I would think it would pollinate it. BTW, awesome site! I tried to talk hubby into making the trip out to Morton on Sunday, but too busy this weekend. Might be able to make it out next weekend! Lots of good information! hemnancy---I like the description of your apples, they meet the criteria I would like---especially the disease resistance. Could you tell me a little about the size/flavor/consistency of your favorites? I'd like a tart, firm, apple like a Braeburn. I used to like Golden Delicious (back in the day when we didn't have a lot of other choices!) but only when they were green. Once they start to turn 'Golden" they are too sweet and mushy. gardengal48--same thing, can you tell me about the varieties you list? I agree, if I am going to plant apples I REALLY want a Gravenstein! My all time favorite, but can never find them until it's too late! Short season makes for difficult to find in the stores! I remember as a child going with my folks out to old abandoned homesteads and picking apples in the orchards. I find it a bit ironic and confusing that those trees were so heavily laden with apples that the limbs were on the ground from the weight in many cases. I have a nice yard, don't use a lot of chemicals and still nothing! Maybe I'm being TOO nice to them---although there have been years that they were completely ignored, so that's probably not an issue! Just find this very frustrating! Seem to have good growing conditions, good care, bees, and pollinators, but still no apples! Thanks again for all the input. I REALLY do appreciate it and welcome any more ideas/suggestions! Even if I wait to plant until next year, I'll have a better idea of what might stand a better chance of growing and producing! Oh, by the way---off topic, but if you ever consider planting wild geranium---DON'T! Unless you want it in EVERY patch of dirt and crack/crevice in your yard! Talk about invasive! One plant 8 years ago and it is everywhere!!! Took over my Native Plant Garden! Thanks again! Linda