Lauren..how often do you inspect your reflexa? By chance, has it recently bloomed? Reflexa's shoot out little white, fragrant flowers from fall into mid-winter.(at least here in IL)..a sticky substance is found on leaves during flowering and afterwards.. When mine bloom, it scents up the room. I was talking to someone just last night who had a reflexa that also bloomed..she didn't notice any fragrance on her flowers. Like Mr. Sub suggested, try saving the plant..How long have you had it? What's its height? Check for insects, all types, but since you may be seeing honeydew, especially scale and aphids. As scale mature, they're a lot easier spotting..I'm not sure how aphids get around.. If you find any signs of scale, soap and water, (especially harsh spraying foliage w/a hose) will help, but not rid them. Some ppl hand-pick each scale, but this can take hours, especially if your plant is tall/wide. I use Fish Emulsion..1 capful to a 16oz container of water..if a bit more FE is used, there's no need to panic since it's organic and won't burn roots..Place FE in mister and spray all parts of your plant.. I must warm you, FE has a fishy odor..If you can take plant outside and spray, then leave out a couple days, the smell will be gone..They also sell an odorless type, which I've heard still has some scent, but not as strong as the standard type. Even if your Reflexa doesn't have scale, and you use FE, just consider it a last foliar feeding of the year since FE is used as fertilizer. Good luck Toni

I wouldn't do anything now. If they turn into areas of dead bark by pruning time, it is a canker fungus. Cankers are, or become, pretty large (1" or more) with concentric color zoning. Normally we prune to a budeye at least 1" below these. If smaller, it could be a lesion of blackspot or something similar. These often develop on green canes in the fall. Apparently they are not directly harmful, but release spores in spring. This may be of no concern on KO, as the leaves are resistant. Also green canes may go spotty for a while as they change color in the maturing process. I normally notice this in spring/summer, though. Usually, I completely ignore my roses from shutdown in late November until pruning time in late March. It spares some anxiety and fuss. I don't know that any harm has resulted from this policy.

First... Welcome to the forum! The more, the merrier! Second... I've had some minor trouble with these microscopic mites, myself. I use Schultz's 3 in 1 spray, which is an insecticide/miticide/fungicide all in one. I spray the leaves and bulbs, and about 2 weeks later, I follow it up with another round of spritzing with the 3 in 1 spray. I've found that if the bulbs aren't too infested, the spray will work. However, these mites usually show themselves with red or rusty looking streaking on the leaves and scapes... not blotches or circle shapes. You may not have mites... you may have a fungal issue, instead. Captan does wonders for fungal issues... in fact, I use it as a preventative when potting up any bulb. I use a small paintbrush and lightly dust some Captan powder on any part of the bulb that looks bruised or raw, and I dust a bit around the bottom of the bulb, where it connects to the basal plate. Then, I pot them up. Dusting your bulbs with Captan before storing them for their dormancy is a good idea, whether you have fungal issues or not. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! If you've been doing some reading here in the forum, then I'm sure you've run into many posts that talk about the different mediums us bulb lovers prefer, and why we prefer them. One of the main reasons I stopped using bagged potting soil is because I experienced a lot of rot and fungus issues. Since I've begun using a more porous, bonsai-like inorganic medium, I've had no rot or fungus issues, whatsoever. Most regular potting soils are too fine in particle size, and decompose too quickly, which causes the soil to collapse. The roots literally suffocate. The soil may stay too wet for too long a time around the rootball, and because there's very little aeration, there's no exchange of oxygen to the roots and gases away from the roots. A plant's roots need to "breathe". When you run into any of the links I've posted about mediums, please read the articles. They will explain in detail the relationship between roots, the soil, water... and they'll give you some very nifty medium recipes to try. After much experimentation, I've come to the conclusion that my bulbs are happiest and healthiest in an inorganic medium made up of larger particles which allows for excellent and quick drainage, aeration, and I have complete control over moisture and feeding. Anyway... glad to have you joining us! Keep reading... you'll be glad you did! There are a lot of very knowledgeable gardeners here, and we think we've got one of the greatest groups on GardenWeb!

It is a fungus better known as "rust", not bacterial spot. Bacterial spot are black dots and more towards the tip of the leaf and on the fruit. The best treatment that I found is a soil drench using Dithane M-45. Mix 2 Tablespoons (1oz) to one gallon of water. To that mix you can also add water soluble fertilizer such as tomato 18-18-21 or 20-20-20 using the same amounts stated. Re-apply again in 10-days, then re-apply 10-days after that again. You can also spray the trunk, branches, and leaves with this mix. The best document actually a Power Point presentation that shows all types of peach disease and how to treat them can be found here: http://www.imok.ufl.edu/misc_news/peach_field_day06/diseases_of_peach.ppt Very informative pdf doc. http://www.doacs.state.fl.us/pi/enpp/pathology/pathcirc/pp69.pdf Here is a link that might be useful: Diseases of Peach in Central and South Florida