Digging the hole the same depth as the root-ball is to prevent settling of the crown below grade. In the case of grafted plants being grafted just to facilitate commercial production it can in fact be desirable for the crown of the tree to gradually become shallowly buried over a period of years, with the result that the scion (variety grafted on top) sends out its own roots. This is possible only when the graft point is just above the crown of the roots. Retention of the rootstock is important only when it is being used to dwarf the scion or protect it from pests like nematodes or pathogens such as water molds. Roots do not circle in amended holes. Plants dug out of amended holes, found to have circling roots never had the roots spread at planting. The circling caused by being left in containers too long is still present. The main problem with amending of planting hole back-fill is how it affects movement of water into and out of the amended area. During wet conditions on heavy soils water may collect in amended planting holes, during dry the unamended soil around the planting hole may attract water away from the amended planting hole. Plants dug out of amended holes and found to have not rooted into the soil outside the hole have not done so because they are stunted by the adverse moisture conditions within the amended planting hole. Or were in too poor of a condition before planting to make vigorous growth, whether placed in a favorable situation on the new site or not.

Tarwil, If you just received a hydrangea, I'm going to assume that it is a forced / florist type mophead (usually found in Publix this time of year?) as even down here they are not naturally in bloom yet. I would highly suggest potting it up in a 5 gal container (to start with) with good (Miracle Grow Moisture Retaining Soil; or the like) and keep it outside. Hydrangeas like ample moisture and our continually air conditioned homes do not make a good environment for such plants. Keep it out of midday sun (a covered patio would be great) and most important of all, water, water, water. Soil should always be moist (not wet) so make sure your pot is draining well. These florist plants are a bit 'iffy' as they are grown/forced for instant bloom gratification at the expense of a healthy root system, but with a little extra care I have managed to salvage a few. So if you can't get this one to survive long term, try again with a hydrangea purchased from a nursery. These plants have been given a better head start in life. Lastly, growing hydrangeas in C.Florida is not as easy as growing in more northern (zones 7 & 8) relatively carefree climates. If you want nice hydrangeas here, year after year, you will have to work for it! I have many in the ground but have come to the conclusion that containerizing is the easiest and (due to our very sandy soil) best way to keep them moist, well fed and happy. Hope this helps. Good luck...yg

Hey Dave, "Have fun bringing those plants in?!?!"...REALLY?! You more than welcome to come to my apartment and help me then. I ONLY have around 100 or so to move indoors, and just like you, I have other tropicals that also need to come indoors. Last night we hit 45 so I know I will be moving them all indoors this week. MY plan was to spray them all with the FE today but this darn rain is putting a cramp in my plans. Tomorrow I will hopefully be able to spray them all and then as long as the weather co operates, I plan on having them all in for good by next Sunday. Thanks for the pics Dave! I find this very interesting myself! Was it you that sent me the Aztec Gold 2 years ago? If not it was the other Dave. Anyhow, that plumeria(along with maybe 4 or 5 others) did the same as what you described above. I actually felt guilty having to rip those huge, long roots out! Because I have so many trees, I know it would be really hard for me to get them all in the ground. I could do maybe 10 or 15 every day for a week and a half or so, and get them all in that way. I just have t o be more careful with how I do this stuff this year. I am waiting for comp approval for my 3rd back surgery. The last surgery was last November. They put in titanium screws and a cage system, and 2 screws broke, and actually one of those screws fractured my vertabrae. I want to recover from this surgery and not worry about having to have another. A HUGE advantage to sinking the pots into the ground is that you also don't have to worry so much about the pots blowing over. I had so many plumeria that were second year rooted cuttings, and some of them were all ready substantial trees. I want to say that at least every month of the summer, I was picking up 10 or 15 of my trees at least 3 or 4 times! This coming season, I will be repotting almost all my trees so hopefully this wont be such an issue. Thanks again Dave for posting this thread. I would love to see how many other people here did this and what there results were. Bill gave great advice on how you could plant the trees in the ground without having to rip the pot out. HE recommended planting an empty pot that was a couple inches wider than the pot with the tree in it. Then you just slide your tree into that pot and fill in with soil. When fall comes and you have to bring them in, you just pull the smaller pot out. He said that you could leave the larger pot in the ground so the following season you could just put your potted tree right back in without having to go thru digging another hole again. Andrew

Oooh that might make sense. I had them under a lamp since I don't have a heat mat. But then the temps skyrocketed and it was 80+ degrees outside (will be back in the 40's for a while). I don't think I turned the lamp off. Now that I think about it, the ones doing better are the furthest away from the lamp.