will a hydrangea do well in a pot?
kristinacatfish
16 years ago
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kristinacatfish
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Will a hydrangea do well is a container? Will it...
Comments (7)Coffee grounds have a nearly neutral pH, assuming that you are using the USED grounds. It's the aluminum in the soil that helps some hydrangeas turn blue. A lower soil pH allows for the aluminum to be taken up by the plant rather than held tightly by the soil ions. You can add aluminum sulfate to plant in a water drench by mixing 1/2 oz per gallon of water and pouring this around the plant several times during the growing season. Water your soil very well before adding this solution, as aluminum sulfate can be damaging to the roots. The aluminum sulfate will also lower the pH, but it will also help to keep the area mulched with organic matter of any kind. Organic matter, over time, can help a soil maintain an acid pH. Avoid fertilizers with a lot of phosphorous, but potassium might help. If your soil is naturally very high in calcium, you might as well forget it. Enjoy your pink hydrangeas, lol! A soil and pH test before experimenting with all of this would be a very good idea....See MoreDo Hydrangeas and Azaleas Do Well Planted Together?
Comments (17)>In 36 years of gardening, I have never killed a Kurume azalea by overwatering. I wish I could say that. We killed two of them, not so much by overwatering, but simply by getting a reasonable amount of rain. We were totally new to growing azaleas at the time, though I'd read a book on growing them. We figured that the fact that this area of the yard (next to the house) was well elevated and also on a bit of a slope, so that it would fit the azaleas' needs. Not so. The planting area was total clay that we'd dragged there from excavated clay in building the house. Clay, total clay. Of course, we made some nice dirt in the holes for the azaleas, according to what I'd read... Those holes functioned as good-sized pots; the surrounding clay didn't absorb the water that stood in those pots either. Water would stand there even if the last time it rained was days ago. The varieties were Hinodigiris. We learned a lot through this experience! I dug out that whole area, mixed in organics and sand, installed a drainage pipe to take the excess water into other areas of the yard, and dumped lots more dirt to elevate even more the spot where the azaleas were planted. Worked great, and all plants since then haven't gotten too wet... though some have had to be replaced do to insufficient watering during a drought. You can't overwater any azaleas, camellias, or rhododendrons PROVIDED they are situated where the water its roots have access to has good drainage! Best wishes, Mary...See MorePlease help me with my pots . . .
Comments (3)It probably would make it, but make sure you have good drainage soil in the pot. One thing though. Everything does better in the ground. Why not plant it somewhere it move it down the line? My regular Oakleaf has transplanted well....See MoreHydrangeas are not doing well
Comments (9)Hello, Kim. Try to describe how much water they get in terms of gallons and how often. And is the soil kept evenly moist?? Because to me this looks like uneven watering (that means having periods of dry, followed by periods of moist-dry-moist-etc). The dry periods and near 100 temps in Houston would brown out leaves during periods of dryness. Then you get new (replacement) small leaves... or no leaves until the shrub gets lower temps in September. I had this issue once when my drip irrigation system was not passing much water thru all the tubes and almost lost a few hydrangeas and camellias. Of course, it had to happen by the end of the summer. I added water manually thinking the drip was also watering but things did not get better and they looked like yours before I found the problem with the drip tubes. I did see some wilting near the end of a picture too but that is common during the day here so I first thought of root rot but, since you have similar temps to me now, I am thinking that maybe it is unhappy hydrangea leaves in the Texas summer. Perhaps you could help figure that. If it is root rot, leaf wilting would persist all the time, day or night, even when the soil is moist. Are they wilted all day and ALL NIGHT? If not sure, can you make sure that the soil is moist -not wet- one evening and then -in the morning- check the leaves to see if they look either wilted or not wilted? Also, do you know what soil pH readings does the soil have.A few areas in the lower left of Pic 3 look chlorotic. Up here in D/FW, I have to amend the soil a second time to prevent that. I could not tell from the pictures if you have mulch under them; do you? Try maintaining 3-4" of organic mulch year around. Regarding the fertilizer, how much Miracle Gro do you use and how often? I fertilize them with a general purpose, slow-release fertilizer in Spring and that keeps them happy for the whole year. I also amend the soil to keep it acidic in Spring always and, again when the leaves look chlorotic, at the end of Summer. Clorotic means that the color of the leaves looks light green or yellowish but the leaf veins remain dark green. Sorry for all the questions......See Moremorz8 - Washington Coast
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