Peace Lily -Black Leaves
sylvan
17 years ago
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troianus
17 years agosylvan
17 years agoRelated Discussions
Peace Lily all leaves-very tall leaves
Comments (5)I have a PL that is huge, I got it from my grandmas funneral 4 years ago. It has been doing well and growing and producing flowers. Heres what I do. . . It is in a 10" pot (big I know but ths plant is huge)with drainage holes. I repotted it using Miracle Grow potting soil. It sits in front of a west facing window where it gets lots of sun and full direct sun for about 4 hours a day. When the leaves start droop slightly (not wilt and fall down, just hang less erect) I take it to the bathtub and water it w/ a 3 gallon bucket, let that completely drain and repeat 2 more times. I let it completely drain before setting back in front of the window. How often I water depends on the time of year, sometimes I water it every week (summer) and in the winter I water it approx. every 10-15 days. I let the plant tell me when it needs a drink. I NEVER let the leaves wilt, there is a fine line between drooping slightly and wilting, as in a few hours. For instance, I noticed one night at bedtime that it needed water and was going to water it the next day. The next morning it had wilted, but after a good drink it perked right back up. This is very damaging to the plant, so I don't let it happen if I can help it. I feed w/miracle grow but not very often. It blooms three - four times a year for me. Hope this helps....See MorePeace Lily, healthy new growth, yellowing leaves
Comments (8)Not sure about changes in water quality, we are on town water and I have always used it for watering my Peace Lily. No recent house moves either and I just checked - we have both fluoride and chlorine added to the water supply. I switched potting mixes due to the aforementioned problem of yellowing leaves. Basically as a trial in a more open mix to determine whether or not I WAS over watering. I don't think I was, as all the roots were white and healthy (although rootbound). I'm debating whether or not to unpot the plant just to check the roots. But maybe I'll wait on that. I need to do a bit of research to determine whether or not I have her planted too low in the medium and if I have, I'm planning on replanting her in the correct position. I'll finish the watering experiment first though, just to rule that out....See MorePeace Lily leaves turning brown/yellow
Comments (9)Jayme needs a haircut. ;-) "I don't believe I'm heavy handed on watering because it rarely floods through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot and when this does happen I always empty the tray so that it's not standing in water." We know your soil holds water, but let me show you why your contention doesn't. Let's say I have a horrible soil that holds 6" of perched water at container capacity. Since that's probably Greek to most growers, it means that after gravity is done pushing water out of a recently saturated soil and it has JUST stopped draining, the bottom 6" of soil is fully saturated and essentially airless. This means that the function of ALL roots within that 6" tall column of saturated soil is being limited by a lack of oxygen. Using your contention, everything is fine if I only add enough water to raise the ht of the saturated soil column to 5-7/8", because water won't drain until the ht of the saturated soil column is greater than 6". Essentially, there is no difference of note between a saturated soil column of 6" vs 5-7/8"; which means that over-watering is surely in play as a potential limitation. Too, if you water consistently so no water exits the pot, you ensure ALL the dissolved solids in fertilizer solutions and tapwater remain in the soil. This increases the mineral salt level in the soil (TDS) and can very quickly skew the ratio of a singular nutrient to all of the others, which creates another significant issue. I can clearly see from the list of ingredients that you unwittingly made a very water-retentive soil. Compare what your soil looks like to these soils, which are what I grow in: You can clearly see there are going to be large pores between the high % of large particles that will be filled w/air instead of water after the soil stops draining subsequent to being saturated. Ideally, you would move in that direction. I promise it will make a BIG difference in your ability to manage your plants' moisture and fertility needs. This will provide information that will help you turn your plant around. and This link, which goes into considerable detail about How Water Behaves in Container Soils, probably represents the largest step forward you can make as a container gardener. If you make the effort to understand the concept it outlines, it should change the way you look at container media and significantly increase the rewards you get from your growing efforts. Al...See MorePeace Lily Help - droopy but w/ yellow leaves
Comments (9)That this plant naturally occurs in riparian settings isn't proof that it would appreciate the same conditions in a pot. The plant can be grown well under various forms of aqua culture, but for conventional container culture the plant prefers the same cultural conditions that most houseplants prefer, i.e, a moist or damp (never soggy/saturated) soil, bright light, warm temperatures around 5* either side of 75*F, and regular applications of a fertilizer with N as the predominant fraction. Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 will be very hard to better, and it contains ALL nutrients essential to normal growth. One might think that particular attribute might be the rule when it comes to fertilizers, but it is an unusual exception. Most soluble synthetic fertilizers often lack several elements essential to plants. Your plant will bounce back as long as you don't over/under-water it. Keep the soil damp, the plant in a warm spot with bright light but not direct sunlight, and all will be well in a week or two. When you see the plant pushing new growth, it's time to fertilize. A 5:1:1 mix made with appropriate ingredients can be watered to beyond the saturation point every time you water, unless the intervals between waterings are inappropriately short. If you have ANY concerns the soil might remain saturated for unacceptable periods after you water, now is the time to do something about it. Ballast, a wick, or both are great strategies for dealing with excessive water retention. In fact, if you want to, you can use ballast to your (and your plant's) advantage and increase pot size to a pot as large as you like. You have many options, a good thing to have. Al...See Moretjsangel
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