Best of luck to you ole dawg! It sounds as if you have thought things out well. Thanks for sharing the information. I look forward to seeing how your project progresses....

Depending on the area of lettuce and how large it is, all you need is a piece of plywood or in a temporary pinch, cardboard (till it rains). Dig a trench and put it straight up on the west side of the plants. It will shade them from noon on.

I plant corn every week or 2 & throw all my salad seed, cilantro, etc. with it so the corn shades the lettuce.

I shade mine under larger plants too. Usually broccoli or Brussels sprouts. It works great. Sounds like Jack is planning a rather large lettuce patch! You can grow a LOT of lettuce in a 15 x 6 bed.

-Diggity

Post number 2,

Bill of materials and changes already

Well I went to LoweÂs and bought the materials. I have thought of a better cheaper way to anchor the frame. Forget the concrete blocks and pouring cement. ½ inch rebar will just fix inside the ½ Sch 40 PVC Conduit so I bought 4 pieces four feet long and will cut them in half and drive them into the ground and that will be my anchoring system.
FORGET THE BUDGET for now.

THE MATERIALS I have purchased in quantities larger than I will need in order to avoid additional trips to LoweÂs at 18 miles per trip.

10 foot lths of ½ inch Sch 40 PVC Conduit, $1.09 each length
One end belled
45 degree wide sweep elbows, belled end $ .63 each
90 degree wide sweep elbows, belled end $ .66 each
Cross couplings, slip by slip by slip by slip $ .87 each
½ inch by 48 inch rebar for the anchor system $1.87 each
Slip by slip couplings $ .16 each
Slip by slip by slip tees $ .32 each
45 degree close elbows slip by slip $ .38 each
90 degree close elbows slip by slip $ .24 each
1 small can of PVC cement $1.94 each

When I am finished I will extend the figures to arrive at the total cost of the materials

Tonight I will post the first part of the plan. I plan to make it in sections so that I can extend it should I wish to do so at a later date. Think of a section as a modified hoop so to speak

PLAN # 3, LETTUCE SHADE, June 27, 2007

OK, I gave it some more thought and decided that I would standardize the pipe lengths at 5 feet. That would give me 5 feet by 10 feet sections for a total of 50 square feet per section. When I cut some pieces and laid out a section that 10 foot depth look too large and also too weak. More thought need on this one. THINKING, THINKING, AND MORE THINKING AND YET MORE THINKING.

OK, I will divide one 10 foot (120 inches) into three equal parts of 40 inches each. That would give me a depth of 6.67 inches, HOWEVER because of the radius of the 45 degree long sweep elbows I have decided to use I must add an extra 5 inches bringing the depth to 85 inches or just a fraction over 7 feet. Refiguring the area it would now be about 35 square feet by three sections for a total of about 105 square feet under cover.

So now try and imagine what the end panel will look like. This will be the basis to build on and I will laid it out on the flat floor of my neighborÂs very large garage. (see it pays to be nice and give lettuce away). I have yet to decide whether or not to glue this together or to use #8 x ½" sheet metal screws to pin it at the joints. Using the screws will allow me to take it down whenever I want and store it IN A VERY SMALL SPACE.

I have already decided that by covering the frame with clear 10 mil plastic I will be able to extend my lettuce well into the late fall. Heat, if necessary could be provided by a portable K-1 heater that I have. Hell, I could probably raise lettuce all year with this arrangement.

BRAIN STORM! I have just had an idea how to cool this baby down quite a bit. I will post that in another post.

Put your thinking caps on class for the construction of the first panel which will start with a 5 foot section of pipe with the belled end down. Next add a tee using the long radius with the tee section facing me. Add a 45 degree long sweep elbow with the belled end out and you now have the first bend. Then comes a 40 inch section of pipe, both ends plain. Then add another tee just like before, another 40 inch section of pipe, a 45 degree elbow belled end first, another tee as before and finally a 5 foot section with the belled end down. This will be the basic building block for the frame work. The only difference with the interior frames is that a cross will be substituted for each tee in this unit. The two 40 inch sections joined with the tee will naturally BOW and I will end up with a nice rounded roof/top
The BOW section might be a problem and I will have to deal with that when I start assembly tomorrow.
DOES ANYONE HAVE ANYTHING TO ADD AT THIS POINT BEFORE I start assembly? Now is the time to let me hear it.

The BOW puts a lot of tension on the uprights and it will cause them to bow as well.
Solution: Drill into each of the tees on the uprights and insert an eye bolt. Connect them with wire and a turnbuckle to bring everything into line.
Any other ideas?

Hey Dawg
I like the neat look this will provide. I can't even consider lettuce-n-chard during these SE Louisiana summers. Your system sounds strong enough and will look good also. I think I would pour a little concrete with a galvanized nipple sunk flush with the surface of the concrete. The nipple of course, would be large enough for the PVC to slip into easily. The concrete would be flush with the soil so I could weed-eat easily.

Turnbuckles are very expensive and luckily, in this case you won't need 'em.

#9 wire, like fencers use, twisted around one "tee" and then as you hold the PVC uprights where you want 'em, make a loop around the other "tee", start twistin the wire with pliers (this will pull the frame together) until they're the radius you like.

Sheet metal screws tend to make PVC want to split since, there is a constant "wedging" type pressure all of the time. Instead, drill clean through the entire fitting when it is made-up and insert a thin nail (smaller hole), then bend the nail slightly. There is practically no stress on the nail so use thin nails since you will need to straighten 'em back out when you disassemble it.

Do a "Google" search for GREENHOUSE PVC FITTINGS and you will find a "3-way" and a "4-way" PVC fitting that will enable you to have a horizontal PVC brace where you're wanting to use wire. In 1/2 inch PVC the prices are $1.00 and $1.10 per fitting.

My plan for this year was to build a new bed and have wire go up the sides and over the top, plant green beans and other viners on them and plant lettuce, arugula, chard, cilantro etc under them.
Bed didn't quite happen, so I did bamboo teepee, and lettuce in the shade of the tomatoes.
Problem with the bamboo GB teepee is that I accidentally bought bush beans! I'm still going to plant more GBs if I can ( LOVE them!)
My other thought was to fix a 1" section of PVC in 6-12 inch sections,secured to a raised bed. Then buy 1/2 " PVC to insert into the 1 ", and make an upside down U. Then top with whatever shadecloth you come up with, be it shade cloth, sheets or whatever.
I hope this makes sence! NT

BigoleDude,
Thanks for the comments.
I will not be using the nipple approach for the anchor. I will be using 1/2" rebar driven into the ground. The 1/2 conduit slips right over it with on problem. Cheap and no cement needed and of course I can move them at any time.

I had the turnbuckles already, but I like your idea better and I will probably just use wire as I havve that as well

I also like your idea using nails rather than screws. I have monel nails and will use them.

The google lead was SUPER. I have, however all I need now, but I will file that for when I make more "Greenhouses"

I have an idea to cool down the enclosure should I total enclose it. I will start another post about my "Refrigerator". IT will also be cheap and I think that it should work.

Your comments are greatly appreciated. I will post some pics as I start to assemble the frame.

Tanks again

Ninjabut,
If you use the 1 inch it will be a very loose fit. If you use 1/2 inch rebar the 1/2 sch 40 will slip right down over it. Just drive the rebar into the ground along side your bed boards. A 48 inch piece only cost $1.87 plus tax.

Well progress is being made, but slowly. I made my first, but probably not last, error. I was having so much fun cutting the pipe to length that I cut one more length into 40 inch pieces than I needed. Oh well, there goes $1.09 down the tube except that I can put it back together with a couple of couplings. LOL
I am debating if I should also add an upright at the center of each end section. It would make it stronger. Of course I can always add it later if I feel I need the extra strength.
All the pieces are cut and the fittings installed on the ends.
Tomorrow I will begin assembly and by tomorrow noon I should have my lettuce back under shade.
I will take photos as I go along and hopefully I will be able to post them here without all the problems my previous photos caused

Well so much for Plan A. When assembling it has become quite evident that it will have to be reinforced so back to Lowe's for more pipe and fittings and a course hacksaw blade as I now fail to see the fun in cutting the pipe with a little bitty pipe cutter. FORGET THE BUDGET on this project. LOL

DOES ANYONE HAVE ANYTHING TO ADD AT THIS POINT BEFORE I start assembly? Now is the time to let me hear it.

Well so much for Plan A. When assembling it has become quite evident that it will have to be reinforced

Well, I missed the first plan and have since skimmed the info. I must say... it sounds like you're trying too hard. You can be as simple as getting 13'-14' PVC and pushing it into the ground (cut the ends off at an angle to make this easier). You can use rocks, bricks, stakes, even soil to hold the sides down.

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If you really want to construct something more permanent and are willing to spend the money, then I suggest you go to the library or bookstore and get Four-Season Harvest: Organic Vegetables from Your Home Garden All Year Long. The author Eliot Coleman provides multiple solutions at all levels of complexity and size, mobile and permanent, for extending the seasons in chapters 9-11.

Thanks Violet, but it has gotten beyond that already. I have cut all the pieces and have begun assembly. I am running into some problems, but nothing I can not fix with more money and effort. I am taking photos and will give a blow by blow later. I had expected to finish this weekend, but things have been keeping me from spending the entire day (or two) on the project. It will be strong I can promise that. To date I have cut 16 pieces of 1/2 by 10 foot PVC conduit and I think I will use at least 2 more for a grand total of 180 feet in the shelter. Woopie! It is a good thing that it will last more than one season so that I can spread the cost out over time or my cat would really be on my case. I will also be growing catnip in hopes of keeping her calm. LOL

Well while I have made some progress I am not finished yet. I will include some photos now that I know how.
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Well I am still having trouble posting more than one photo at a time. Here is what it looks like now. Two more sections to go. SInce I am into it this far I have decided to add a door. That should be fun. I have the idea all floating around in my head.
Problem now is how to mount a couple of vents and where to put them. I believe I will try and make provisions for one at the end panel you now see closed to you. I will look for a aluminum louver my next trip to Lowe's. I still will need another vent I think and a good location might just be the door.
I am also going to try and make my own "Swamp Cooler". Lowe's has a 16 inch pedistal three speed fan on sale for about $15.00. I already have the synt??? fake chamios to hold the water in front of the fan. Now I have to figure out my water reserve. I am hoping that the water will load the chamios from the bottom and will try that first, but I have another idea if I have to have a top mounted water supply.
I am also going to make the bow flater by cutting some pipe off each end.
I did most of this on Tuesday the 3rd and like the dumbie I sometimes I took off my shirt and got sunburned. You would think that with them still cutting me up to remove the skin cancers I would have been more careful.
I have not been out to work since then, but will try and do some more tomorrow

Well I am still having trouble posting more than one photo at a time.

Post the links and I'll add them to the thread for you.

Violet,
Thank you, but remember the old saying. "Give a man a fish and you feed him one day. Teach a man to fish and he feeds himself for a lifetime. I would rather learn how to do it myself. So tell me where I go to find out. Thanks in advance
od and the little Dawg

Ole Dawg that is an incredible picture of your structure. That is huge and looks super solid. I made something much more simple.

Can you give us some approximate dimensions on the structure.

Maybe for the "swamp cooler" effect, get one of those personal misters at HD or Lowes to put in front of the fan? They hook up to a hose and spray a fine mist of water into the air. I think they're about $5-6.
HTH Nancy

Korey,
Looks can be decieving. Here is the latest photo after my day in the sun.
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There is one more section to go. Completed it will be 6'+ deep by 15+- feet long.
It is not SUPER STRONG. It bends with the wind, but its flexibility is a bennie (I think). It will need more re-inforcement. Once it is on its base it will be quite stable. EAch leg will go over a piece of 1/2 inch rebar 4 feet long. At least 2 feet will be above ground so once the legs are on the rebar it is not going anywhere fast.
I could have made something more simple, but I never do things half way. OK Jack is what the neighbors used to call me. OK meaning OverKill. If two nails would do, I would use 10.
Tomorrow I am going to place it overr the lettuce even thought it is not complete. The last panel will need some thought as I wish to put a door in it. This is a learning experience. It is not going to be perrfect by a long shot, but I will learn a lot from doing it and the next one will show that knowledge.
If you look closely you will see the use of some couplings. AH, errors being corrected. I am not about to throw out pipe just because it is several inches to short. God bless .16 each PVC couplings. .
If you compair this photo with the last you will note that I flattened the bow in order to reduce flex.
Morfing, always morfing.
I am tired and need a nap. I will post more after midnight

THOUGHT!? I realize that all this pipe is not UV protected. I wonder if there is some kind of paint that I could put on it to offer UV protection? I guess on Monday I will contact the Mfg. and see if they have a suggestion.

dont worry the pipe will last for years out in the sun and it only cost cheap. it lasts because it is so thick.

Here is how I post pictures. Nothing could be simpler.

I open an account at Photobucket. account is free. I upload a pioture. Then below the picture they display different ways to post a picture on different web sites. this web site uses HTML. so you click on the html and it automatically loads into memory and you paste it here where you are writing. You can copy and paste as many pictures as you want. no mess no fuss. could not be easier. you do not even have to "copy" when you click on the html you are automatically "copy" the info into your memory ready to paste it here.

Try it and you will like it.

Someone around here was passing out a shade canopy for eating outside in the garden it is sort of a roof without the rest of a tent. they use aluminum posts. I did not take it. if you lived close by I would have tried to get it for you.

for 1/2 inch pvc we use it because it bends easy to make an arc. But if you are making straight lines then you can use heavy straight pvc. say 2 inch for stiffness. not sure of the price but it would have saved the cost of the rebar.

The problem with pvc or one problem is that it outgases and that ruins the life of the plastic covering. although I did not notice that. of course it is smooth so as not to tear the plastic covering but apparently the plastic tends to wear at the pvc pipes. but that can happen simply because the entire structure is not that tight and the plastic can move and wear.

I avoided a lot of wear by removing the plastic during the day and only putting it on over night if it was going to be cold. I also put the plastic into the barn out of the sunlight in winter and summer. the sun breaks down the plastic terribly. I can get a couple of years out of the cheap plastic. but I did not use it much. if used a lot then one year is all you can expect.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.laspilitas.com/garden/howto/pictures/greenhouse.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.laspilitas.com/garden/howto/greenhouse.html&h=384&w=512&sz=12&hl=en&start=19&tbnid=fEkw658HERTBsM:&tbnh=98&tbnw=131&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dgreenhouse%26gbv%3D2%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den

how to build a cheap and easy greenhouse.

This guy has some good ideas. I like this writeup.

Here is a link that might be useful: how to build a cheap and easy greenhouse

I should have put this above. this guy talks about the pvc problem at the end of his article. he says this.

Ok, the only problem we seem to have found is that the PVC pipe volatizes something that deteriates the polyethylene. After a summer there seems to be no problem. So, I suggust you use cheap plastic for the first season, or leave the pipes with no polyethylene for a year.

Korey,
The summer will see NO PLASTIC USE. I will be using shade then. The plastic if for the late fall and winter. Thanks for the information on that. Hot here, already 99.8 but looks like rain this afternoon so that should cool it down.

Well I have done nothing for several days. I have been getting ready to go back to work and have been getting ready for an interview. Today in the afternoon we had a really good AND WINDY thunderstorm. The frame was like a hoola dancer. Every which way but up AND this was without any covering at all. The legs will have to be made with something other than 1/2" PVC Conduit without a doubt. But the 64 thousand question is what. I would like to save the upper part so something that I could put the PVC down into would be good. The rebar will not be rigid enough I think. It can be bent way to easily. So, any ideas here? I will have to check and see what size rigid metal conduit the pipe will fit inside. Another trip to Lowe's in the afternoon, BUT IN THE MORNING THE JOCKEY LOT.

Yes I have an idea.

You might go to a metal recycling place. they purchase scrape metal by the pound. Guess what they buy and then sell used galvanized pipe used for chainlink fence.

They sell it cheap by the pound. everything is by the pound. You should be able to drive over there and look through the galvanized pipe pile and pick some pipe out. Phone ahead of time to make sure they have it in stock. Lots of professional fence people buy it and then use it for customers and charge them an arm and leg.

Another trick would be to go on freecycle and tell them you want some galvanized piping. you might get lucky and find some for free. but chances are not good. You can also check out Craigs List locally for pipe. they do give aways and cheap sells.

You might also get super lucky and find a used greenhouse. But in the long run I think your best bet is to buy a piece of greenhouse from people like Griffins Greenhouse. or a different local supplier. Ask farmers with a greenhouse where they purchased it. farms stands usually have them and plant businesses. 4 hoops might be enough for you. they sell them by the piece. everything is sold separate or as a total kit but I think the price is the same on the kit. They will also deliver. That is there business. You might drive down and talk to someone or have someone come and talk to you when they make their rounds.

I never can get the money together. haha. But one of these days before I drop dead I will get one and then drop dead and wish I had either got it sooner or skipped it.

they make a low cost economy simple hoop one.

I would consider getting a wide one and only covering the top and not the sides. you want the umbrella effect not a total greenhouse.

There used to be a local store that sold clear plastic and black plastic in every width by 2 foot sizes in bigger ones up to 20 ft wide. it was very handy so you could just buy what you need. now they do not carry it anymore and home depot only sells 10 ft wide and 20 ft wide. the 12, 14, 16 , 18 foot and 8 ft , 6 ft 4 ft and 3 ft are all not available to me now. maybe I could find it with some work. and it all came in 1, 2 , 4, 6 mils thick. used to be cheap too.

Greenhouse grade always seemed expensive to me.

God must be in NJ this week and has left me hanging. Hopefully he will return soon. I have just returned from the Jockey Lot and then Lowe's to see if there was something I could use to modify the mess I now have. I could find nothing that would fit in or over the 1/2 inch PVC. I have been thinking (Dangerous) and rethinking (Really Dangerous) and I have decided that I took the wrong approach to this problem. After seeing what Violet posted for simply solutions to my problem I have now decided that if I can not locate cheap used galv. pipe to fix the structure I will take it all apart and buy a half ton of couplings. I really don't need a tall greenhouse. What I need is just to cover the lettuce. I will be going to raised bed soon and that will make it easy. For my present problem I believe that I will buy some landscaping timbers, you know, the ones that are 8 feet long and flat on two sides. I will make a rectangle to enclose X number of containers. I will make another rectangle of treated 2 x 4's and hinge them on one side to the LST's. I will then make hoops and attach them to the 2 x 4 top and cover them they homemade shade for now and that will solve my present problem of excess heat and sun. Later I can cover them with the clear plastic for the winter season. All of this will take care of the wind problem for now. The reason or one of the reasons that I want to grow so much lettuce and micro greens is that I envision supplying one or two of the gumay eating places in the near by gated communities with their greens. I don't expect to make money, but it will satisfy my desire to be FARMER JACK. The greenhouse will therefore be on hold until I can affford to buy a HFGH 10 x 16 and beef it up to withstand the wind here. I am banking on our semi-mild winters and not having to heat the covered rectangles. I will keep you informed with my progress.
I am not declaring defeat. I am in organized retreat and will be able to save most of my troops. I may loose some of my drilled fittings soldiers, but my pipe troops will survive. LONG LIVE THE MEMORY OF ROBERT EDWARD LEE. The SOUTH will rise again, in fact it already has. Doubt me, look at all the YANKEES that have move here and futher south.

I have been wanting a greenhouse structure for some 35 years and still do not have one. although I did have a couple of cheap pvc pipe stuff a few years ago. none was strong enough.

Hmm, looking at all that work I am a bit embarassed to say I just plunked a couple beach umbrellas down along the south side of my bed and open them up on sunny days. They may look a bit odd but they do provide shade without blocking any breezes that pass through. The amusement of my neighbors is just a bonus. :-)

whynotmi,
It is not over yet and I assure it WAS A LEARING EXPERIENCE and that counts for a lot. I know I can fix it if I can scrounge up some 3/4 angle iron, but it is too expensive to buy new. I will check the scrap yards next. I can always wire brush it off and paint it. I was going to paint the PVC anyway to protect it from UV and also to protect the plastic of the pipe off gasing.
Believe it ior not I thought about the umbrella angle, but they are not cheap either for big ones and they would not solve my cold problem to come.
Thanks for the comments
1eyedJack and the Dawg

Ole Dawg,

I watch your progress with great interest and can't wait for you to hit upon your solution. I got lucky in finding the beach umbrellas at a $$ store very cheap. Oh, and a priceless moment: when I first put the umbrellas up one of my neighbors teasingly asked what I was growing. Without a blink I said "bikini clad beauties". I was tempted to keep the joke going by vary seriously explaining that they were a sort of heirloom mater but I couldn't keep from laughing at the look on his face.

best of luck
whynot

Whynot,
You know there are never enough of those BCB at my age. Maters are a dime a dozen. LOL
1eye

THE CURRENT REPORT ON THE STATE OF THE LITTLE GREENHOUSE THAT HAS YET TO BE.
Well more thoughts this morning about reasonably cheap ways to correct the errors in judgment on my previous efforts.

OK here we go. ½ inch galvanized pipe will do it. I checked with LoweÂs and I can get the pipe for $10.00 a 10 foot length. They will cut and thread it without charge. If I remove the legs that are now on the frame that would leave me with 31 and ½" to the tie in with the other horizontal braces. That would give me, using 48 inch iron pipe, a height of a little over 6 and ½ feet, more than enough clearance for a door, but a higher overall structure that I had planned for. 36 inch iron pipe would give me a little over 5 feet 6 inches and a little low for a door, but I can make that up with what I use for a base. 36 inches, however would leave me with 12 inches of wasted iron pipe so perhaps the best idea would be to go for 40 inches. That would let me make 3 pieces from one length and I would then need 3 lengths of pipe and I would have two pieces left over that I could use to work with the door frame. That fix would cost me an additional $30.00 so letÂs just say $50.00 extra because I would have to order some 4 way fittings from ACG Greenhouse.
Of course I would need a number of ½ slip by ½ threaded bushing to tie it all together.
The additional left over PVC would be used to strengthen the upper structure and also to add two additional horizontal bow connectors to strengthen the top part. Before I get through this is going to cost me a good bit more than I had planned, but will have a serviceable greenhouse. I HOPE
Being the way I am anyway I will probably continue to add stuff to it as I go along. I can do nothing right now as I donÂt have the money. Next week I have a jjjjjooobbb interview. Yes I must come out of semi-retirement whether I want to or not, but the job will allow me to waste more money on the structure.
I have just about already decided to use a combination of 6 mil inter UV protected premium plastic from ACF and a 4 mil outer skin from the same people. I will take a clue from Bmoser and make it double ply with bubble wrap plastic in between for the insulation and by next summer I will just have to add shade cloth. I will still need a door and at least two vents. One vent for air coming in and one to exhaust or maybe two in and one out. The plastic pipe is easy to work with and with the addition of some ¼ inch exterior plywood on the end panels I will have a pretty good strong structure. If I can do it all for under $300.00 I will be happy, but I might just have been better off to wait and buy the HFGH for $700.00 or so.
If I do need to add heat I can probably get away with some 60 or 100 watt light bulbs in homemade water proof covers made from 2 liter coke bottles. I knew it was a good idea to save all those bottles.

Another bennie if I use the Galv. Pipe is that I can put a tee at the top where I connect it to the PVC part and run a 24" piece inside on each piece and have ready made shelf supports for a role of plastic covered shelving. I will, of course, have to put a support runing back down to the ground, but that will be no problem. If I do that I might have to go to 3/4 inch galv. pipe, but I can do that with a reducer at the top