Larry, for 1. I think I can sort of picture what your tree did, all three branches grew too upright. Bending them down is the best. I don't have time to bend myself, I just cut out the branches that head into the middle and eventually the three will lower more and more as fruit appears over the years and weighs the limbs down.

For 2, brown rot is hard to control organically. Do regular spraying with seaweed or other leaf fertilizer, and the combination of Serenade and Saf-T-Side oil helps a bit as well, as does sulphur. Don't use sulphur within two weeks of the oil. I put these things in every spray I do and I still get some rot. Any time you see any rot at all on any fruit pick it out. Also prune the trees extra open, make sure light is shining well into the canopy. Carry your pruners always and any time you see light not entering correctly fix the problem then and there.

Scott

Thank you Scott -- yes, I was thinking that pulling would be best, but it's easier to prune! I'll pull, since only 3 trees need it.
Thanks for the ideas on brown rot -- I will try them.
Really appreciate your help, -- Larry

Larry,

Sometimes if there is a lot of growth the first year, the branches are too big to pull down much.

In cases like that I've had success notching the bottom half of the branch to be pulled. If you need to, this is how to do it:

Take a tree saw and saw about 4 cuts a couple inches apart on the bottom side of the branch. Saw about halfway through the branch then move to the next saw cut. The small amount of wood taken out by the saw cuts will allow the branch to bend down. Tie the branch down to something firm (I've used anchors for dogs (the kind of anchors you screw in the ground.) The saw cuts will heal over in time.

To give credit, I first heard of this technique from Harvestman.

And I got the technique from Bas Van Ende, but I've never used it on peaches or other stonefruit. I didn't trust the integrity of the wood enough but now I know I could. I do sometimes use spreaders, however.

I don't generally use the first large branches for my scaffolds anyway, and remove them for branches of smaller diameter that are naturally more horizontal. This may reduce the size of my first crop but beyond that it's hard to slow down a healthy peach. Oversized branches tend to make weak unions and often break under cropload if left unsupported.

My peach trees start life as central leaders and I don't convert them to open center until they've begun seriously cropping. The central leader also supplies a place for spreaders- the easiest way to make branches more horizontal.

One other point about brown rot. It's very important to keep the fruit thinned in a way that they never touch. I guess you could even make sure that no leaves are touching the fruit so it dries quickly. Summer pruning will also help keep the fruit dryer if done with that strategy in mind.

"I've never used it on peaches or other stonefruit. I didn't trust the integrity of the wood enough but now I know I could."

I've not used it on stonefruit other than peaches, but peaches heal fast from it.

I also prefer to use smaller branches for scaffolds but it's not been uncommon for peach trees I've received have a few scaffolds with all (or nearly all) the rest of the buds on the lower portion of the trunk dead.

On my peach orders for this year, I insisted on smaller trees. The larger 3/4" trees have been the most problematic in this regard, and they don't readily throw adventitious shoots.

Olpea, when that happens I just train a branch vertical and straight by taping it to the trunk and then remove the rest of the larger branches. I like to get big trees if they come with comparable root which is not always the case with peaches. I don't get quite the growth you do (judging from your photos) and the larger trees establish up to a year quicker.

"I just train a branch vertical and straight by taping it to the trunk and then remove the rest of the larger branches."

Hman,

I've done that too. There's been times there is nothing down low to do that with. As I understand (for squirrel reasons) you don't mind starting scaffolds a little higher than I do. I've been keeping a pedestrian orchard, so it helps if I can start scaffolds even a foot lower.

Not that trees can't be kept at pedestrian height with scaffolds higher on the trunk, but I've found higher scaffolds don't produce as much because the canopy depth has to be pruned shorter in order to be able to reach the tops of the trees.

I agree on establishment. I get better growth the first year with larger trees vs. smaller ones.

Yeah, I know what you mean. Peaches are not cooperative in allowing you to place branches where you want them from older wood. It's one thing I hate about them- they are weed trees.

Olpea and Harvestman, thanks for your ideas. I tied the branches down, using cuts as suggested where necessary.

Made some little stakes out of red cedar, and used poly twine with pieces of old hose at the branches.

They look great!

Thanks for all your help, -- Larry

Should the method of bending/cutting as olpea suggests be done during an active growth period?

Matt,

My recommendation would be to do it anytime it's acceptable to prune, which is when I do it.

In zone 7 NC, with the mild winter we've had/having it's probably fine to do it now.

I would guess that if you are concerned about canker it might be better to do just as peaches come into growth and on into full bloom.