Mixed border that comes out around the conifers and then returns to the fence. Fence could be used to support climbers that interact visually with plantings in front of them. Planting the whole 100-ft.-long stretch into ornamental garden is a big project, maybe you need to retain a garden designer or consultant - and you would have to be a serious hobby gardener to want to pay for and keep up such an undertaking.

If you just want some greenery along the fence, with mostly the existing scene remaining unchanged) plant some climbers on the fence, with a narrow strip cleared of grass along the base to provide a place for their roots. Some shade-tolerant ones are

Akebia quinata
Celastrus orbiculatus
Hydrangea anomala petiolaris
Parthenocissus
Schizophragma hydrangeoides

The first one listed is the only one with a tendency to retain leaves through the winter. An obvious choice for an evergreen furnishing is ivy (Hedera). This can be very nice clipped close to the wire. But the common sorts are pest plants in this region, should not be planted anymore. If the clipping of yours were to stop and it was allowed to begin flowering and fruiting numbers of seedlings would doubtless begin popping up in the vicinity.

You could also plant non-climbing hedge plants and clip them to remain narrow and close to the wire. For instance, there is a box (Buxus) hedge-and-fence combination near me that is quite attractive.

Thanks, Bboy. I really appreciate your input.

I'm definitely NOT going with Ivy. From the corner of the property to the gate, it's 70'. That is mostly shade, but there is sun on all of about 10' at different times of the day. From the gate to the other corner of the property, it's almost full sun. That's about 30'. All the acid loving trees are in the shady part, so I need to keep that in mind. I really want to do some shrubbery that's easy to care for, easy to train, and will hide the fence. Rhodies like shade AND acid. Are there any other bushes I could use?

Especially shade-tolerant evergreen shrubs include

Arctostaphylos uva-ursi
Aucuba japonica
Buxus sempervirens
Camellia japonica
Elaeagnus
Euonymus fortunei
Fatsia japonica
Gaultheria
Leucothoe fontanesiana
Ligustrum
Lonicera nitida
Lonicera pileata
Mahonia aquifolium
Osmanthus heterophyllus
Pachysandra terminalis
Rubus tricolor
Ruscus
Sarcococca
Skimmia
Viburnum davidii

clethra and enkianthus aren't on that list, nor pieris, but I don't know if they'd work in zone 4. Oh, the list was evergreens... (pieris still fits)

You don't really need evergreens; even branches would work to camoflage the fence. Especially something bright like red twig dogwoods.

Actually, I'd move that fence to MY yard as I need one asap and that one would do quite nicely! LOL

I always prefer to look at a variety of areas rather than a boxed in expanse. Since it's such a big area you're working with, you might start on the end closest to your house and gradually working your way down both sides as you can afford to. I would use a mix of plant types rather than a single hedge uniformly following the fence. I'd split it up into zones... an area for lounging, with fragrant lavendar or whatever appeals to your nose; an area for entertaining, one for children or pets if you have them; a few flowering deorative trees spattered here and there; some vine to work it's way up the fence; and some hardscape to add interest. It appears you have a nice big area to work with, so you might as well get your moneys worth out of it!

Giboosi: I'm not in zone 4. I'm in zone 8. Western Washington. Lotsa rain where telephone poles grow. =)

Remove it and install one made out of wood...

I have to admit my thoughts are along the lines of harleysilo's. When you said that this forum was the right place for the question, it struck me that in fact you should have posted here BEFORE building a fence you hated so much that you want to hide it.

Having gotten that off my chest, I'd sanction the idea of a shrub border, except that you've got nasty growing conditions under those conifers and "you would have to be a serious hobby gardener" indeed to get enough growth along most of the fence to hide it significantly. Especially if you're trying to get plants established at this time of year; you'll have to be out there watering daily. It's not just shady and acidic; it's DRY!

Maybe do a search of this forum for "chain link." I think you'll find discussion of much vinery, shrubbery, and coverage with other materials.

Actually if growing conditions weren't an issue I would think that a Cedrus atlantica glauca pendula or a weeping redwood would be very cool. You could train the trunk along the top of the fence and let the pendulous branches curtain the fence. Come to think of it there is someone in my neighbourhood who has established roses along the top of a chain link fence in this manner. They don't really curtain the fence, but make it the backdrop for the rose feature.

That might really be your key recognition, that you don't need to hide the fence so much as put something nice to look at out there to distract the eye from it. A little seating area with a nice container garden, a spectacular perennial border far enough from the conifers to have some nutrients and water... whatever attracts your eye. Given the growing conditions, it may be your only choice!

KarinL

I think your fence is fine. While chain link might not the MOST aesthetically pleasing they are tough and long-lived. Don't make any apologies about your fence:-) I lived in Seattle for several years and a wood fence in the shade would be IMHO very prone to rot and deterioration. I think you did fine.

Having said that, one plant (some would insert the word weed there instead) is Virginia Creeper. It grows in sun or shade and as you may know can be very invasive. Also a great fence coverer. If you want more cohesive covering you might think about slats for the fence and V. Creeper to make it look more whole during the winter. I'm not sure it gets cold enough in Western Washington to make the VC defoliate completely during the off season or not.

Hope this helps.

Kate

Virginia creeper is a Parthenocissus.

I too agree that the fence is not the issue. Costing out a wood fence for that extensive a run could/would be prohibitively expensive compared to that of chain link and the maintenance issues of chain link compared to wood are virtually nil. A very economical fencing solution, all things considered.

And I believe the case for the difficulty of planting in this area is overstated as well. This is a common enough phenomenon in the PNW and it can be dealt with rather easily. Converting the area into a rather naturalistic woodland garden would require rather low maintenance once established and there are scores of dry shade tolerant native plants that would thrive quite happily under these conditions.

bboy has provided a good listing to start, but I'd consider adding things like huckleberries (Vaccinium ovatum or parvifolium), flowering currant (Rubus sanguineum), Indian plum (Oemleria cerasiformis), ocean spray (Holodiscus discolor) and native ferns to the mix. More ornamental plants can be added as well - hostas, brunnera, hardy fuchsias, bigroot geraniums, native dicentras (bleeding hearts), hellebores - just as long as you select those adapted to dry shade conditions. Of course all will need regular irrigation initially to become established, but a soaker hose is a great and efficient method for accomplishing this.

And isn't one of the tenets of landscape design the ability to come up with practical yet attractive solutions for difficult situations? I've yet to encounter any planting situation that is truly "unplantable" :-)

It looks like you've got a hell of a view behind that chain link. Is that right? If so, maybe leave the posts, paint them dark green so they don't reflect so much light and replace the chain link with some green coated metal fencing. It'll fade into the background better and won't block the view. I'm assuming you've got a good reason to build the fence in the first place, dogs maybe, (I'd do anything for a dog).

Bill

Harleysilo: That doesn't help at all.

Gardengal's post is a very good reason why. I have 900 feet to fence, and it aint cheap.

Bill's post is another good reason for the chain link. We're doing chain link on 2 sides of the property. We may do wood fence on the other 2 sides after the house is built.... We'll see.

To be fair: I used poor language with the word: "hide". We bought a piece of property that has been totally neglected forever. We've cleared pretty much all of it.

This property was overgrown with just about any invasive weed you can think of in this region. We took down a barn that was ready to fall down on it's own. We've taken out hundreds of feet of blackberry bushes. We took out a couple of trees that were horribly infested with termites and carpenters. The rest of the trees we skirted (they already look healthier).

Bill is right about the view. It's positively gorgeous on a mostly clear day.

I was only looking for ideas that would do well in the conditions I have. I've gotten some good ideas from many folks on this forum!

Thank you all for your input!

I only listed things for heavy shade. The sun can be seen shining on the fence and lighting it up in the pictures, your description also indicates there is plenty of potential for less tolerant subjects.

It looks like an ideal place for some of these wonderful new disease resistant climbing roses. Knock-out is one and New Dawn is another. One is Pink, the other is red. Happy growing. Tony

This may sound odd...but...is there anyway to paint it either dark green, or brown, or black, without creating a maintenance nightmare? I think if it weren't bright'n'shiny then it would "disappear" visually. We had neighbors at our former residence who put up wire and wood post fence (kid corral) and once the wire rusted it "diappeared."

Just thinking outside the box. (my function in life...)

melanie

I am in the Seattle area with a chainlink fence. Sure, I see part of the fence and I have covered part. Honeysuckle and roses, (Seven Sisters and mde Carrie ??) cover one side...about 50 or 60 feet. That Boarder has other roses including Rosa Rogosa, and Topaz Jewel. Very limited care, btw.
The front is view so I have things like roses, fennel, poppies, lavender and more which frame the
lake and mountains. I doubt many see the fence because they have better things to see. It's like someone with a great smile: who sees the crooked tooth?
The other side is broken up with a fire pit, tall evergreen trees, apple tree, forsythia, budlia, New Dawn rose and many hydrangeas, hostas, and more.
You have a wonderful situation: view, wide open pallet to play with and who cares about the fence....which is your friend!!!
I would do two things, one is to work toward a garden room effect which someone earlier eluded to. I would have it all meander to your wonderful view, as your focal point. Wow. What a great thing to have. Everything would key off of that.
Second, I would go to the library or mag rack and pick up volumes of books and mags to pour through, pulling together the look I wanted based on similar real estate. From that, I would brake it into projects that would give a sense of completion. I'd make a list of things I wanted to do; compost area, veggie area, tool/shed area, gazebo/pergola/garden bench. Fire pit. Shade garden. Roses...though I like to integrate mine... Herb garden....Hmmm...
For my taste, I would build the entire garden around a path to the view with a seating area. I would rest from my day in the garden, looking out from there at that water.
I'd say the fense is but an opportuniy. And a great one at that. Have fun!!
Smiles,
D...

I tend to agree with Melanie - paint it some shade of green so it "disappears" more into the landscape. Then it might not bother you at all.

As you said, you've got a lot of fence to beautify, and that may take years and an awful lot of money. But a few gallons of paint this year... see how you like it.

Good luck.

I have a chainlink too. It is what it is. I agree with NWrose, while I don't love the fence, I love what I've planted in front of it, so I "have better things to see!" A couple of folks in my neighborhood have the green colored chainlink, definately an improvement but I don't know about painting the fence, that might work or it might be a maintenance issue. Here's some plants that I have in front of my fence that I really enjoy:

Shasta dasies
Fireglow japanese maple (there are so many goregous small japanese maples to choose from, like "Full Moon" and "Autumn Moon" which both need shade to do well. Not big acid fans though). Another gorgeous maple that I would have planted if I had shade is striped maple, sometimes called mosewood maple or mountain maple, Acer pennsylvanicum.
Blueberries (love acid soil)
Gold flame spirea or something like that
Miss Kim lilac (not a fan of acid soil though)
Rose (I planted a wild rose, Rosa viginiana, but if I had to do it again I'd do a repeat bloomer) Many folks in my neighborhood have roses against chainlink, they look great, also I like them mixed with conifers. They don't like acid soil though, but own rootstock shrub roses are remarkably hardy.
Mint
Raspberries
Ironwood, Carpinus carolinia
Peonies
Ostrich fern
Sweetfern, (not really a fern, this can survive acid soil if it's well drained)
Dwarf weeping hemlock (acid loving)
Mountain laurel (cousin of rhodies, loves shade)

Clethera is another acid soil tolerant nice shrub. One other small tree that is on my list to buy is Sweetbay magnolia. This is rather hard to come by but I have a lovely native plant nursery that I frequent. That reminds me, there are tons of lovely viburnums you could plant, and also Fothergilla.

I've also heard of a dogwood that likes shade, Pagoda dogwood, Cornus alternifolia. It tolerates acid soil. But it is an eastern species and I don't know if it grows well in the PNW.

Many plants, while not overly thriving on acid soil, will tolerate it and do reasonably well. I found that out when I lived once on the edge of a pine plantation.

Wow, folks! Thanks for all the help and great ideas. I've gotten started on this project, and yes, it's going to take awhile. My back isn't as strong as it used to be, but I should be getting some help pretty soon. A couple young boys came by and asked if I needed any help with yard work. They're looking to earn a little money over the summer. I told them they sure came to the right place!

I'm starting on the sunny side of the fence, and hubby is going to build an arbor for the gate. So far I have a New Dawn climbing rose in, and a Hakuru Nishiki Willow shrub. I have some other stuff in pots and I hope to propagate some beautiful rhodies which are well established elsewhere on the property.

Thanks again for all your help!

Hi,

I live in Salem, OR. You may want to think about starting with plants native to this area. You didn't mention if you are going to irrigate it, or keep it more drought tolerant. But in any case, many native shrubs are drought tolerant once established -- not to mention attract wildlife. A great field trip you could take to get ideas is to go to a wonderful nursery here in Salem (and I mean "nursery" as in he grows what he sells!). It is Wallace Hansen Nursery. I believe his website is www.nwnatives.com. A nice older man has built up quite a large selection of all kinds of natives. Of course, you could get natives elsewhere.

I don't know how you plan to use this space, or how close the house is to it, but if it isn't really meant for sitting next to and admiring small features, but more for a far-away gaze, then I see a mixed hedgerow type of thing. You could mix all kinds of shrubs and small trees, as well as roses (even natives!) and perrenials and bulbs and just build it up over time. I believe a hedgerow is basically a collection of closely planted shrubs/trees that is allowed to grow into a fairly dense screen. The birds will love it!

Also, I would focus on paths, seatings, arbors etc first and really think about the natural places to walk, sit, stand. Then plant around your hardscaping. Of course, things usually don't go in such an orderly way, but in theory at least think about the hardscaping aspects first.

Maybe a sitting area under the trees?

Well, those are my ideas (this is my first post and I am not a professional at all, just thinking about going into garden design).

Carolyn