Hello Mani. It normally takes 7-14 years before a citrus grown from seed will flower/fruit. Pruning will not promote flowering. In fact, by doing so, if your citrus is about to bloom, there's a chance you'll remove the flowering stems by cutting back. Some fertilizers can by used by spraying leaves, (foliar feeding) but you have to read the package to see if your fertlizer can by used this way. Otherwise, if it's too strong, it might harm its leaves. Citrus fertilizer is best, but any Azalea/Rhododendron or Acidic fertilizer will do. I don't know the type of fertilizers sold in India, but if you can't find a fertilizer suitable for citrus, perhaps you can check Ebay.com? Toni

My experience with this conifer is it tends to have a wide girth. Growing in a pot...I don't know. Shearing to keep it in proportion with the container would eventually become necessary. This is a big conifer if allowed to free range. I realize grown in a pot would dwarf its size but how much? Another thought...dug up in the middle of Summer...maybe a 50% chance of survival depending on the size of the root ball and after care. Personally I would choose a better cultivar for container presentation and one grown in a pot for resale. Dave

Unfortunately, that width is probably going to limit you :-) The elevated nature of any above ground container exposes it to much colder temperatures than a plant would experience in the ground. Especially the roots, which are far more vulnerable to cold damage than the top growth with even very hardy plants. But the larger the soil mass around them, the greater the insulating factor, so with a large container in a moderately cold zone you can often get away with overwintering plants that would likely not survive in a smaller container. Pretty much any tree or shrub you may choose will easily produce roots that fill up that 10" width, resulting in a root system that will very likely come into contact with the planter walls and therefore be exposed to excessively cold air temperatures. And root damage (resulting in plant death) can occur at temperatures as mild as the mid 20's, depending on species. And you are looking at the possibility of below zero air temps in zone 6 :-(( You might be able to risk it with the selection of some hardy dwarf conifers but they tend to be expensive to use in what is essentially a hardiness experiment at best. I wouldn't recommend any flowering shrub or tree except perhaps something like alpine currant, as the root system will simply get too large too fast. Unless you are inclined to toss money away on this experiment, I'd stick to seasonal plants. You can always stick in cut willow stems or redtwig dogwood stems together with cut conifer greens and hollies if you want some winter interest.

To me it looks like its going to bloom. what is your watering and fertilizing schedule by the way. Mangoes need to be stressed from cold or other factors to flower. be careful to keep the room temp to a suitable range. what is the temp in by the way? i have a couple of mango trees indoors but have shown no signs of flowering so far.