I'm pretty sure you'll find a 5:1:1 ratio is so high in N that you'll have lots of foliage and little fruit. Who makes anything like that? I've been starting my plants on normal doses of 3:1:2 fertilizers, then reducing the dosage after there is adequate photosynthesising machinery in place (foliage) and adding ProTeKt 0-0-3 to ensure there are no problems with the amount of K provided. This strategy comes very close to turning the 3:1:2 fertilizer into a 2:1:2, which in my opinion would be a much better choice once the plants are well established.

Al

Thanks for the input. Do you think it would be good to maybe start with, then switch to something else? I don't want to waste the $8. ;-)

- Steve

I'd save the 5-1-1 for the garden...

Josh

The problem with using a 5:1:1 ratio fertilizer is it's impossible to supply adequate K w/o way over-supplying N. Conversely, if you fertilize to supply the right amount of N, you are assured a K deficiency. You could use it if you include potash in your soil when you make it. This supplemental source of K will prevent a K deficiency if you supply the right amount of N with the 5:1:1. Alternately, you could add ProTeKt 0-0-3 to the water whenever you fertilize to guard against the K deficiency.

You'll go a long way before you find a better plan than starting with a 3:1:2 ratio until the plant is well-established and then reducing the dosage and including the ProTeKt 0-0-3 when it starts setting fruit. As you see, there ARE things you can do to make it work, but I was just trying to make it easy on you. You can also start with a 3:1:2 and switch to a 1:1:1 after the plant is established if you have something like 20-20-20 or 14-14-14 (most common 1:1:1s) on hand.

Al

Hi Steve, is it Steve?
Couldn't pull up the link, but I assume that is your name..

What worked for me was Foiliage Pro and Pro-tek at each watering all summer long.
What's weird is that while my neighbors lost theirs to a serious case of blight, mine withstood that.. Not sure why?

I did get a whole bunch of tomatos, and the plants were as healthy as could be until they out grew their pots and the cold moved in.

Mike..::-)

The silicon in the ProTeKt helps to harden plants against insects & disease at the cellular level.

Al

Al, I will look for the ProTeKt 0-0-3 and use it along with the Alaskan Fish Fertilizer 5-1-1 to get pretty close to a 3-1-2 ratio. Or, since I have not yet solidified my plan for my potting mix, like you said, I may look for a source of potash to add to it...but the good thing is that I have options...lol. I don't remember where I saw the article regarding a 5-1-1 ratio being ideal, but it was from a link someone on a GW forum posted (someone who normally has great reliable information). When I was out shopping for fertilizer this past weekend, I saw the Alaskan Fish Fert w/ the 5-1-1 ratio & was like, "Ooooo...I could use this as an all in one fert." =) I definitely highly value your input on this though, so I will try one of the methods you suggest that I reiterated above.

Thanks! - Steve

Steve, sorry we butted in on this conversation, Josh and I..

Good luck

Mike..:-)

When using the fish emulsion (FE), your observations are likely to confuse you because there is no way to determine when, what you apply will be available for uptake. The availability of nutrients in FE is contingent on the activity levels and populations of soil biota, which are very erratic in containers.

As an example, if you apply FE when it's cool, nutrients will be unavailable, even though the FE is carried over in the soil. You might be tempted to fertilize a second or even third time because the plants haven't appeared to react to the application. As soon as the soil warms and soil microbial populations multiply, all or nearly all of the fertilizer you've applied can become available and cause issues you'll likely blame on other cultural factors. It's really much more difficult to use fish emulsions and other forms of organic soil amendments as nutrient sources in container culture than it is to use soluble fertilizers, but if you are limited by a particular ideology, I understand.

Why would you feel like you butted in, Mike? ;o)

Al

Because I directly asked him a question, and gave a great experience, and it was completely overlooked. This thread was not intended for anyone else's help, because the poster really treasure you opinion. Who can blame him?

So in my opinion, I should of read the thread, question, a bit better, and shown that respect and withdraw from my excitement to help.

It was directed for you, and I felt rude for interrupting.

So the opology.:-), and yet the "goodluck" in good faith, because I fully understand. I myself have directed many questions specifically for you too.

Mike..;-)

Mike: No need to apologize at all! =) I value all input/experience. I know i've asked you questions before about my Dwarf Lime tree & you've helped me out.

It appears as though, in this situation, the article I read & my impulse buy of the FE were lost causes...lol. No big deal though. I'll see if HD will take it as a return. If not, i'll keep it for use down the line on something else....but I will look for a fertilizer I like and/or some recommended here to get the proper ratio of nutrients for my container plants. It's not something that needs to be solved immediately, as I don't start fertilizing my seedlings until they reach about 4 weeks old & even then, it's a diluted/light application. My mater plants are only a little over 2 weeks old (from seed) right now.

Anyway, great info to know about the FE, Al. I'm glad I didn't learn all this down the line & have a horrible year with my veggie plants. I just got tired of the typical Miracle Grow Tomato fertilizer last year & figured i'd look for something better this year. =)

- Steve

Steve,there is nothing wrong with MG, it works great in conjunction with a good soil. Have you looked into A1 mixes for containers? And if not are the soil mixes you are using limed? It could help greatly with your blossom end rot you had problems with last year.

Damon

I have been away from computer for couple weeks. Just want to say I am glad Al is back to gardenweb. Look forward to discussions.

Damon: I was thinking about that when I was writing the post above! =) I may just end up using the same potting medium I used last year and the same fertilizer, then just add dolomite lime to the potting medium and see if that helps. I have not even heard of A1 mixes for containers. They a great complete all-in-one potting medium? If you have a link to a place that sells them, that'd be awesome! Anyways, kids just finished barraging me with snowballs, so gotta go dry off...lol.

- Steve

Yay!!! My Foilage Pro 9-3-6 & ProTekt 0-0-3 will arrive tomorrow via FedEx! =)

Steve,
I got a bottle of Foliage Pro 'round Christmas time, and I've been using it on a few plants - Hot Peppers, Money Tree, Castor Bean, Wandering Jew, and Avocado. All seem to be responding well, although I admit that I've been using it sparingly during these gloomy months. I really look forward to the full effect this Spring and Summer.

Josh

Aw..You will all love the stuff!

I have been using it for months, and it is the best fertilizer I have ever used for my plants..

Mike..:-)

Yeah buddy!!! =)

{{gwi:6368}}

Here is a link that might be useful: Steve's Garden

Ok, Al. I've been thinking about the potting medium side of things. I can easily get Vermiculite, Dolomite Lime, Sphagnum Peat Moss & Perlite. What else should I add if I can't find that pine bark fines stuff?

- Steve

Steve, I must say, I am pretty impressed with your site..

I shall have to read more, thanks for that!

Mike:-)

If you can't find pine bark in a suitable size, then try to find someone who will order one of the Fafard products I mentioned a couple of times upthread. An alternate would be to use a bagged soil and add lots of rinsed perlite. Skip the vermiculite in peat based soils - they're already water-retentive and vermiculite will just add to the tendency.

Al

Very nice Steve!

Damon

Mike & Damon: Thanks. I'm actually going to listen to the people who know what they're talking about this year & not argue with them. ;-) I think i'll get better results! lol. Speaking of which, Mike, i'll be taking my Dwarf Lime Tree out of its hibernation in the basement in about 6-8 weeks. Any pointers? Pot up immediately or leave in same pot?

- Steve

Hey Steve...Now we are talking! I can't believe that you have a citrus tree!

I like that..:-)

When you say hibernation, explain the conditions you are giving it for me..How does it look? If you want, you can e-mail at mikerno_1@yahoo.com or ask this same question over at the citrus forum so we can keep this thread focused on your original question.

I would find it a joy to help you, since we are both 5.1.1 partners!

Mike..:-) :-)

I have a Dwarf Cavendish Banana too. :) They are both fine. I trimmed back the Banana in late Fall (all except 4-5 newest leaves). The Lime I bought last Spring. It was about 10 inches tall then & is about 2 and 1/2 to 3 feet tall now. They are in my basement below the house, sealed area with a tiny bit of air intake & that's it...much warmer than the Winter here. In fact, I need to check on them! I have watered them very little since they went down there, like I read I was supposed to do...Anyways, i've gone off on a fruit tangent the last 2 years. I also have Blackberries, Raspberries & Strawberries that should produce this year. I'm growing new Mexican Papaya, Grapes & Pomegranate too. Yet to make it on to my blog cuz the berry plants are overwintering fine, but have little foliage. The Strawberries, the same. The Mexican Papaya I grew from seed & are about 3 inches tall at 3 months or so old. The grapes are arriving from Jung any day now. I'm excited to throw a twist into things this year again with the fruits & also some of them should produce this year too! Time for that perfect garden addition of sweet to an already home made bbq sauce...muahahaha.

- Steve

Steve, you way of storing your Lime is very interesting to me...How much sun or light does it get? Or do you have artificial light? Do they face the south or north window?

Home made bbq sauce with all those goodies sounds pretty delicious!!!

All that stuff your growing, amazing.

I forgot, what state do you live in?

Mike.:-)!

I'd guess Tennessee... ;)

Josh

Yep, Tennessee. Mike: The dwarf lime & banana are close to a south facing wall near one of the mini basement windows where they probably get a few hours of sun a day. Since I couldn't bring them inside, basement dormancy was pretty much my only choice.

- Steve

I think your right Josh!! lol

I should of seen or remembered that...oops

Mike..:-)