keep these bottom left closets next to foyer or change to a den?
C R
14 days ago
last modified: 14 days ago
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C R
13 days agoRelated Discussions
Gutting farmhouse master bath --- keep the original closet?
Comments (12)Hmmm... given that you don't use the linen closet now and that if you relocate it to the right of the window you'd bump your knees on it, I do think I would just remove it and restore the window trim. It is kind of shoe horned in there as it is and even though it is old, it isn't that aesthetically pleasing. Keep the boards and hardware for use elsewhere. The wallpaper is truly hideous, so the first thing I'd do is remove it. Then you'll know what's going on with the wall. You could have a leak or an ice dam on your roof if there is a valley where the addition was added on and water running down the walls. Or, as you say, it could be from shower steam. Or, it could just be failed wallpaper paste! We removed old wallpaper, added two fans with vents to the outside and all new wiring in our 1913 bathroom without removing the old plaster. It can be done. What is in the space above the bathroom? Is the bathroom on an exterior wall? Do you have balloon framed walls? Gutting the walls and installing drywall creates an horrific mess and if you can repair and preserve the plaster while still obtaining the new vent and wiring, I'd do that. Actually, your shower tile looks to be in pretty good condition and (on my monitor) more beige than pink. I attached a link below to a kitchens thread that contains a link to antique baths about a quarter of the way down... those ugly tiles were in vogue back in the old days because people knew what colors to put with them. But, boy I see what you mean about the leaking. Looks like the floorboards under our old leaky toilet that kicked off our bathroom remodel. I'm no expert on showers, but it does look like you are going to have to tear it out and start over. Have you visited the "bathrooms" forum? It is very active and Kerdi is a frequent topic over there. A wooden bath tub. Not my cup of tea, but interesting. Everyone needs to have a way to soak. Our bathroom spaces were so small, and we don't intend to sell our house until we are ancient, so we just have two showers and we soak in our spa. Works for us. Cheers. Here is a link that might be useful: quirky kitchens thread w 1920s bath link...See MoreKeep or change bones of 60's southwest ranch kitchen?
Comments (96)lyfia, thanks, and we agree. The glass company said building codes only require us to use safety (tempered) glass for the two end panels; the center three could be annealed, if the glass started 18" off the floor. How crazy is that? We'd never want to take that risk, either. Yikes. Fortunately the bid for tempered glass was only about 15% higher than annealed glass (which really surprised me.) So we'd only consider tempered 1/4" if we use glass. Laminated glass (with the plastic skin in the middle) would be the safest, but it's super pricey. I think safety glass would be OK. Another option is 1/4" plexiglass, which I think would work as a substrate for the glass mosaic, as long as I didn't go too big with the panels. (I think big plexi panels might flex, which isn't good for a grouted mosaic...?) At some point I need to go ask the folks in the stained glass/mosaic forum here. So far the pricing for thick plexiglass seems comparable to tempered glass. There would still be small grouted glass pieces on one side of the divider (we could put it on the low traffic side) but I don't think the surface would be risky for kids, since all the sharp edges would be embedded in grout. And it would be pretty hard to break. We considered colored plexiglass panes too, but it just seems so "mod" for the informal, earthy textures in the house. Colored tempered glass and frosted tempered glass are way too expensive (pushing $1000 just for the frosted glass idea, for five 5' panels.) I considered frosted films and frosted spray paint, but I think those ideas have a limited life span (especially if the house has active kids) since the spray frostings can scratch off. And DH keeps wishing for color, and he's got me agreeing. It has to be somewhat transparent or it blocks too much light. So, now considering a fairly open wooden framework, with smallish glass mosaic panels scattered. Still playing with ideas...!...See MoreHelp with floor plan - change keeping room to kitchen or dining?
Comments (15)I actually like the layouts. Friends of ours have a second home where from the front, it looks like yours - long porch with entrance to the house and the MBR set back with French doors to the porch on the left side. That part of the porch is hardly ever used, and when they're having guests and someone might use it, they just close the drapes to the MBR. Their porch is continuous all around the house. As for the master bath and closet,a I always thought having the entrance to the closet from the at broom made no sense...until I lived in a condo that had it set up that way and I loved it - it was very convenient to go right tp from the shower to the vanity to the closet and back to the vanity. I would personally eliminate the door from the master bath to the laundry, but I also don't see it as a problem if you think it would be useful. Re the coat closet, you might consider moving the powder room to where the vacuum closet is now, and put the coat closet where the powder room is and the broom closet where the coat closet was....See Morestarting some kitchen changes, hooray! layout and pics
Comments (7)We have the cabs in our garage now and have measured them. Base units: 39", 18" (drawers), 12", 33" (cut in back for the sink), two 36", and a corner 36x36. Upper units: three 24", 36", 39", the fridge 36", the oven 30", and a 36" that is taller then the others due to some cubbies on the bottom of it. DH had a good point earlier today - our room isn't really 17 x 14. Only the part on the right side of the drawing is 14 across. Then the room gets cut in by about 2 feet I think, even if we remove the current pantry. 1 update - DH made it seem like when he picked up everything that he'd broken-beyond-using the corian counters, but he didn't. There's a scratch, a gouge, and 1 or 2 parts that broke in a way that didn't really matter. Point being, we have corian counter to use, including a peninsula that I'd given up for destroyed (it's gouged). I'll have to re-work that in. The original thought had been to have it coming from near the dishwasher. Oh, if only that little support wall wasn't there! We do have a small cab to the right of the stove. You didn't miss it, but it's the old one and is going away. We have about 26 usable inches in that space, max. Unless we manage to completely eliminate stuff pushing into the room in that area we can't put anything bigger. But I like your idea of moving the fridge over and working with that some more! We have only the 2 lower units that are smaller then 30". If we put either of them next to the dishwasher, then we are stuck on what to fill in on the other corner... I was thinking it would be easier to fill in the 18" next to the DW then try to arrange the other corner. But I could be missing a good idea there! I think > 30" is too big to cut down like that? Plus with the peninsula coming from this area I'll have to rethink it anyway. Maybe leave under open and put shelves above? If I'm not using the 36" for the island I could use them for the coffee area. Both would fit or we could do the little seat area! Not that I necessarily want to watch the neighbors back door ;) We are both somewhat handy. Inexperienced in this area but excited to learn new stuff. Well, I'm excited. He's resigned ;) I'm going to work on a new plan tonight, working under the assumption that we don't need those closet walls. Thanks for the ideas!...See MoreC R
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