Is it worth changing 12x12 kitchen layout?
CMc
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millworkman
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18x18 or 12x12 on the bathroom floor ?
Comments (20)Oops lillo, I made a mistake. My reno started on Monday, but moving quickly. They demo'd to the studs. Tub, drain and valves in, walls back up (except vanity wall), electrical done and tile is up on the long tub wall. This morning I am thinking of still going with the 12x12 brick pattern on the floor. I thought it would be too much pattern with the subway wall tiles, but the subway is only in the tub area and should be covered with a shower curtain (if my kids remember!). I took a few pics on my phone but have to get them on my computer. I have planned sand colored ceramic subway tiles with a sandy/concrete colored porcelain floor. Colonial cherry double vanity with a beige marble top. White Toto toilet and white sinks. I originally planned sconces, but because of a pipe in the way I can only use overhead fixtures. My goal today is to find robe/towel hooks. I empathize with you about your tile floor decision (other post). Selecting the tile was my most time consuming decision. Natural stone was not an option for me because of maintenance issues and well water staining. I would have loved to go with basic white subways, but am afraid of staining. Good luck with your tile search!...See MoreIs it worth it to change my kitchen?
Comments (24)blfenton, how else can she have upper cabinets on the perpendicular walls, since standard depth is 12"? A lot of kitchens have cabinets on the sides, which die into the back wall, so I don't understand why that seems so strange. While I don't think the 12" cabinets beside the hood will be really useful, except for oils and spices as the OP planned, I don't think they'll look as bad as you seem to imagine--maybe because I've seen the rendering she posted in the other thread. And here's one with narrow cabinets beside the hood: mathnmusic, if you keep the narrow cabinets, to make them more efficient, you can use door mounted spice racks, or check into the spice racks that fold out. The pull-outs would be a good option, too. Pull down spice rack--Target Door mount spice holder--Amazon...See MoreHelp: Would like a small prep sink into 12x12 kitchen, no island
Comments (51)"The wall ovens were always preferable but optional, as was a 36" wide fridge as opposed to, say, a 31" wide that is taller." Regarding the refrigerator...stick with 36" wide by 70" to 72" tall. Manufacturers in/for the US are standardizing on 36"W x 70" to 72" tall refrigerators as their minimum size offering. Yes, you may find narrower ones here and there, but they're usually low-end of the mainstream refrigerators or very high end manufacturers (e.g., Liebherr). So, plan for this size space for your refrigerator: 38.5" wide x 72" tall. Width: 36" wide + 1.5" for end panels (3/4" on each side) + 1" for air clearance and wiggle room = 38.5" Height: 72" tall This way, you won't have to either search far and wide for a smaller refrigerator or pay $$$$ for a high-end refrigerator. Periodically over the years we've had people come to either here on the Kitchens forum or the Appliances forum frantically looking for a refrigerator to fit a small space (width and/or height). If it's a built-in, you don't have to accommodate the end panels b/c a built-in does not need end panels to hide the sides of the refrigerator. Counter-depth and standard-depth do need the end panels. And don't forget a 24" deep cabinet over the refrigerator (I can't tell for certain from the drawing if it's 24" deep, so I thought I'd mention it!)...See MoreSearching for layout ideas for a 12' x 12 ' Kitchen
Comments (15)OK, here's another one. It gives you most of what you want: Layout #2 Kitchen: It has: Good workflow Nice separation of work zones so more than one person can be working in the kitchen at the same time - preparing a meal or snack, cooking, or cleaning up. -- Refrigerator, Prep Zone, and Cooking Zone are one side of the Kitchen with plenty of workspace -- Cleanup Zone is on the other side with plenty of workspace and, now, quite a bit more dish storage. In addition, the dishes and Cleanup Zone are near the DR for ease of setting the table or clearing it. There's a 24" wide x 15" deep tall pantry on the end of the Cleanup Zone - this is to hide dirty dishes a bit from the DR and hide them completely from the LR. I discuss pantry cabs in the DR discussion below. Between this pantry cab and the two in the DR, you have 6 feet of pantry storage. I wish they weren't separated, but with your wants and constraints, compromises are needed. 36" range. The Cooking Zone is also well-protected from traffic - both the range and the ovens. There's a 24" wall oven in an oven stack with the MW in an alcove above. -- Under the MW alcove and above the oven is a pullout shelf to use for MW landing space. -- The reason for the alcove is that you can place an inexpensive MW in the alcove and, if it ever breaks down, you can easily replace it - no worrying about whether it will fit the existing trim kit for a built-in. -- Oven landing space is on the other side of the refrigerator 48" or less away. NKBA Guidelines recommend oven landing space should be within 48". You could also use the counter over the DW - although it will be a bit more than 48". Finally, you might be able to use the MW shelf - but be careful of heavy items. It has three seats at the peninsula. With the different seating in the DR, there is sufficient space for both the table and peninsula seating. The trash pullout is located in the Prep Zone and near the Cooking & Cleanup Zones. Far more trash & recyclables are generated during prepping and cooking than cleaning up, so locating it in the Prep Zone makes the most sense. Peninsula: Yes, there is a sink in the peninsula - a prep sink. I know you didn't want one, but, again, if you want the large range, the extra oven, etc., compromises are needed and this is one that I feel strongly is needed. Without the prep sink, this layout will not work well. The peninsula still has plenty of space for staging. -- I did do an alternate layout with a corner prep sink, assuming it can be done with the chase. However, it doesn't follow very good workflow b/c you're moving back & forth from the peninsula where all the workspace is to the range on the other side of the sink. There isn't enough workspace b/w the range and sink - and that's where it's most useful. What did I tweak this time? :-) The Living Room wall is no longer extended "up" - it's extended "down" toward the Dining Room by 26" - based on your previous removal of part of the LR/DR wall. I.e., I would keep 26" of it instead of taking all of that part of the wall down. That may or may not help with expanding the LR/DR doorway down toward the bottom wall. (See the DR layout to understand what I'm talking about.) The short wall b/w the Kitchen and Basement Stairs/Study is still shortened by 12" I moved the windows so they flank the range and they are both 39" wide. I strongly recommend counter-height windows! (See this thread: http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2484108/counter-height-window-pictures-please) That black box, btw, is what appears to be a chase of some kind that you cannot move - based on your layout. . Layout #2 Kitchen Zone Map: . Layout #2 - Alternate Peninsula: . Layout #2 - Alternate Peninsula's Work Zones: . Layout #2 Dining Room: I changed the doorway to open it up more - assuming you can do it. If you cannot, then leave it as is. This layout has a partial banquette - a bench along the window wall for two seats and the rest are chairs. This should work for just about any family - with or without children and empty nester or not. It also contains two 24" wide x 15" deep tall pantry cabinets - shelves, not pullouts or roll out tray shelves (ROTS) since shallow shelves are much more useful than deep pullouts. With 24" wide cabinets, things easily get lost in anything deeper than 12" to 15" - shelves or pullouts or ROTS. If you wanted a pullout, then, I wouldn't have it any wider than 18" so you can see everything by looking on one side or the other. I do not recommend ROTS - you end up opening & closing them looking for what you need. With a narrow pullout or shallow shelves in a cabinet or built-in pantry, you can see everything at one look (or maybe two with a pullout). The table is not centered on the room b/c of the door on the right. You need more space to get by b/c of the door. If you moved the door "up" toward the Kitchen, you could center the table and have 38.5" aisles on both ends of the table. The bench, however, is centered on the room - mainly so I could symmetrically place the two 24" pantry cabinets. If you can move the door, I would....See MoreCMc
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