Kahrs flooring--yes or no?
Mittens Cat
5 years ago
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Comments (88)Ri included the top one with the tile. I’m not sure what caused the darkening the wood but we didn’t have a rug in the hall. Snow could have melted there. The second one is in the shade. There isn’t as much of a color difference as what is shown. The third one was the only sunny patch that was left. Considering how filthy the floor is, it hides dirt and dog hair really well. We had to have engineered wood since we’re on the water. It was installed all over except for the front hall, laundry room and bathrooms. There is radiant heat under the first floor. Hope this helps....See MoreEngineered hardwood?
Comments (9)Thank you so much for your kind response. I am glad you are a snob. I love it as it can only help me to understand what to look for. I have never had engineered and just accepting that I have to choose them has been a tough pill to swallow. Our new place is down south and is on a slab which means if we go with solid wood it is going to have issues long term in this humid wet area of the country. It has been advised by many floor people to go with an engineered hardwood. Real wood is out of my budget. I only have $30grand set aside for floors. In fact one guy suggested we do a floating floor over the ugly saltillo tile we currently have. I refuse to do that. So I am stuck. I have to choose engineered hardwoods and I am lost as to the direction of surface. I don't love hand scraped just thought it might look more natural. Ha Ha I am wrong. And Beveled edges? I never even thought about it until you mentioned it. Now I am going to notice every floor I see. And I will probably wind up with the exact beveled edge you detest. Being a novice I have no idea which looks the most real so have to just dive in and chose something as a backdrop for the space. The Vorges looks the most real. The wood on top of the engineered is 1/2 inch thick and has the texture of oak. It can be sanded and stained comes in wide plank and various sizes. Not sure if that matters? But maybe that would be the one to go with. I had dark white oak (solid wood not this engineered stuff) in my last house. I loved my floors, I guess I must be a slave to a diva as I did not mind having to dust them every other day. Was I a slave to my floors? Yes, i guess when you love the look of something it is easy to accept the labor. However this time around I like your idea of going a shade or two lighter. Medium non orange or red toned flat matte soft brown floors is what I am going to search and hopefully find. Thank you again., If you can recommend an engineered hardwood floor that you believe to be one of the prettier ones of all the uglys, share it. As I trust your snobbery and appreciate it. Your knowledge is exactly what I was searching for. Regards, boxerpal...See MoreWhite oak wide plank
Comments (8)If you're near L.A., just head for a local flooring store or three (not big box chain stores), and discuss your questions where you can see and feel the product. There are stores near me (not too far from you), that are full of wide plank white oak. Full. Around SoCal, I see popular brands like DuChateau, Provenza, Kahrs, UrbanFloors, and yes, Hallmark and Garrison too. The stores near me are chock-full of exactly what you're looking for. That's where you can start your research. Near San Diego, at least where I am a couple miles from the coast, humidity for wide-plank wood floors is not a common concern. Windows commonly and routinely open during the day....See MoreAmorim waterproof cork flooring. Yes or no?
Comments (40)I was very happy this product is nontoxic. I bought 2000 sq. Ft. For entire house including bathrooms utility and kitchen. Within 3 weeks it had peaked so it has a rippled look. The problem with this flooring is that if the temperature does not stay between 65 and 82 then it can be damaged. So with all the rolling blackouts we have and air conditioning going out furnace going out heating going out and maybe taking 2 or 3 days to repair if it's in the really cold time of year or the really hot time of year then my guess 90% risk that your floating flooring will be damaged. Attempting to read the installation my opinion you have to be an attorney to understand it. Installers are certainly not going to be able to understand it and dont want to read it. installers want to install this product like they would laminate, Vinyl plank, or wood but that doesn't work. you've got the manufacturer on one side with complicated directions and not honoring the warranty and you've got the installers on the other side saying I did everything right and they're not going to do anything for you so you're stuck with warped floors and out many thousands of dollars. The directions rather than being in several pages of long paragraphs saying one thing and then you have to keep reading further for the exceptions you can't just read it and skim over it and say oh yes this is true because then later they'll say what they just said was true is not true. The basics are you have to use a 6 mil plastic underlament over a concrete slab and then if you want to use quiet walk plus on top of that you can. You cannot use just quiet walk plus if you do the flooring will not be protected from moisture coming up through the concrete.You have to test the concrete for moisture before the floor is installed. Sometimes this can take 72 hours of the installer keeping coming back and they don't like to do that of course. you have to learn how to install this product by calling amorim customer service and technical support and talking to anybody you can think of that has anything to do with this flooring. You have to read and study the long and tedious directions from amorim wise. You have to learn how to install the floor then you have to insist the installers do exactly what you say and you have to be there when the installation is done to make sure they do it. They will argue with you and say it isn't necessary because that's what happened to me so I'm assuming it will happen to others. You have to be strong and insist. I thought maybe they were right and I was wrong so when they argued when they argued vehemently against the 6 mill underlayment I went along with that. I thought well maybe the quiet walk Plus is enough. It isnt. There has to be expansion gaps at thresholds. If there is more than a certain number of linear feet there has to be an extension gap. There has to be 1/4 to 1/2 inch the inch left around the perimeter of the floor between the flooring and the wall for expansion. They cannot caulk the bottom of the baseboard and when the baseboards are nailed the nails have to go straight and not pointing down because if you have the baseboard so tight against the floor that it pinches the floor the floor cannot expand. there's more I'm sure you'll have to read the lengthy directions and I think they should have a summary with bullet points....See MoreMittens Cat
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