Judy, it's not so much the higher wattage on the medium burners that you need as on the big one. You should be able to use a flat bottomed wok on that and get plenty of power. I understand shy, but they really are there to help you. The Miele showroom in Beverly Hills is an especially friendly space, and considering its location I have to think that that's corporate policy! Hm... above statement was made without thinking through your way of cooking. The wattage on the mediums is important if you have a really big pan that you're transferring from the wok into, so want to wok on one of the smaller burners. If you're not ready to cook something yourself in the showroom, ask for a personal demonstration. Even boiling water should give you a good idea about the heat and responsiveness. Could you work up the courage to make an appointment and go watch the salesman or chef use the unit? Or get a pushy friend to come along and speak for you? It's important for you to be happy with your choices, and one of the best ways to do that is to actually see the appliances in action. Re gas, yes, you can use the wok burner with a grill plate, but there are single sided ones that you can easily use on induction. Also, some of the double sided ones with shallower edges work okay as well, at least on some cooktops. I have always roasted eggplants and peppers on the gas flame to get them charred on the outside and not overcooked on the inside (a distinction which may just show up my lacks as a cook in not being able to do this in an oven). I have a little barbecue grate that's made for the purpose. It's a trick that's not for the faint of cleaning, however. Nolamom, the magnet test is a great way to assess whether the pots you have will work with induction, but if you're buying new it's probably worth your while to get pots that are known to work particularly well. Since I already have a lot of Le Creuset (works great with '60's coils, gas and induction all and I love the enamel), I don't know the specifics. Do a search here and you'll find recommendations. Some steel cookware has different amounts of steel in the sides of the pan and the bottom, so it cooks a little differently than one that's all the same. Some have more steel than others. Etc. Cast iron is pretty much cast iron, though weight and thickness will effect the way a particular pan works in comparison to another. Enamel shouldn't matter (it's an insulator but I haven't heard that it impedes magnetism). I have a little Turkish coffee pot which is stainless but doesn't attract a magnet at all. I can't remember if I tested it on Mr. Induction (all this stuff is packed for demo), but I'm pretty sure it won't work. :) Anyway, what I'm trying to say is if you're buying something new, make sure it will work well rather than just work.

I recall that there was a thread on a similar topic a few years ago that, ultimately, "degenerated" into links to monster propane cookers for tail-gating parties. However, a Google search using this site's URL and your subject wording may wake it from the dead. I question whether having such a unit so close to what appears to be an upper cabinet edge in your picture would meet code. My Cooktek 3.5 kW induction wok unit would fit in that space, I think, and be equivalent to somewhere around 30k BTU/hr heat equivalence. But while it can caramelize meat and have the responsiveness of gas, it won't have the 100k BTU/hr performance of a restaurant wok burner. kas

The two loop version is common in the home and in larger woks. Some restaurants use them in smaller sizes but that becomes nearly impossible with the high power jet burners. Go with the long handle one (aka "pow" wok). Yes, a damp towel is typically used to handle a wok without the long handle. The all metal long handles can sometimes get hot as well (noted above). I've "flipped" using the loop version and it's actually easier to lift but the grip isn't as good and your fingertips definitely gets close to the fire. Not recommended for beginners. Hand hammered ones are indeed thinner than machine pressed but that's part of the attraction. Thinner means lighter and better heat control. I've also found that after long use, the hand hammered ones hold the seasoning better. The steel used in the hand hammered ones are a bit different both due to actual composition and tempering process. On the plus side, this (some believe) creates a surface that can hold an ingredient a up on the side of the wok which can aid in fast cooking of different "stages" without removing the previous stage completely. For instance meat can be browned and pushed up the side before adding veggies in the middle. AFAIK, there is no scientific evidence of this so take it for what it's worth. I think there might be a slight benefit in this regard but hardly something most people will notice. The negative of the hand hammered woks is that the steel is more brittle than the machine pressed. That's why most restaurants don't use hand hammered woks even though many "traditional" chinese chefs prefer them at home. The abuse a wok goes through in a restaurant makes hand hammered impractical. sfjeff is correct in preferring welded handles. I've seen numerous woks fail at rivet points after just a few months in a restaurant. At home, it's probably fine. That said, not all welds are created equal. If you get a welded handle, then make sure the weld is not just along the rim of the wok. Personally, I think a 14" or even 16" hand hammered wok is perfectly fine. The flex is normal and doesn't indicate weakness. The handle will likely fail before the flex in the wok bowl becomes a problem. Carrying around a wok full of water usually requires counter support regardless of the type of wok. There is a trick or short cut to the initial cleaning and seasoning. You can burn away the protective coat instead of scrubbing. The coat is basically industrial oil/grease which can be melted with high heat. I'd suggest doing it outside on a turkey fryer burner or with very good ventilation if done indoors. Heat up the wok until it starts to smoke. Poor in about 1/2 to 1 cup of plain table salt. Let the salt and wok sit on high for a few minutes. There will be some smoke (maybe lots) and you'll start to see the steel change color to a slight bluish tint. Tilt the wok and move the salt around so that it has enough time to sit in each area of the wok for a minute or so. The salt might become clumply because it's drawing in the melted coating. If that happens, poor the dirty salt *carefully* in a flame proof container. DO NOT put in in water as that might cause an explosive release of steam. Poor some clean salt back in the wok to continue the process. The whole thing should take no more than 10-15min. Once the inside of the wok is clean, then let cool. Once cooled, wash with soap and water. This is the only time you'll want to wash with soap unless you decide to re-season for some reason. Now dry with a towel or paper towel and return to the burner. Heat it up to dry completely. If you've never done this before, it's better to wait until the wok cools again at this point. I typically proceed to apply the oil for seasoning while the wok is hot but that can be dangerous if you aren't extremely careful. Once cooled, take a dry paper towel and put some oil on it. Use something with a high vapor point like soy/canola/peanut/vegetable. Don't use olive oil. Put a thin to medium coat of oil all around the inside of the wok. You can also coat the outside. Now just apply heat to all parts of the wok until it starts to turn from bluish gray to a copper brown color. It might turn blackish in parts but that's ok. You'll need to heat each part of the wok past the point it starts to smoke so be patient and look for the color change. Once the complete inside surface is a nice brown to black color, then the seasoning is complete. This step should take at most 5 min or so on the 22k burner. You can let it cool a bit and then wipe with a clean paper towel and you are done. Don't apply water at this point or you'll need to heat it up again to get rid of any water. This doesn't produce the "pretty" finish sometimes seen in ads but it's fast and functional. I think it produces a longer lasting seasoning layer due to the higher temps but it can look a bit splotchy. To produce the "pretty" finish, you'll need to do it in an oven. Coat the wok and put in a 400-450F oven for 30min. For best results, put the wok upside down so the oil doesn't pool in the middle. Of course that means you'll have to put something under it large enough to catch any oil that might drip off. This will produce a very nice looking even season but it can be more difficult when there is a wood handle. Frankly, the wok will eventually turn black with use so I don't have a problem with it looking a bit splotchy at first.

Thanks for your insights. Commenting on your questions in reverse order: (a) I do not have any experience with gas wok cooking, so even if I thought my induction wok technique was good, I couldn't compare. I can say that for quantities sufficient for several people, cooked sequentially in the induction wok and then combined and finished, my 3500W Cooktek can manage more than enough power. However, it heats a ring area of the wok so the very bottom (4-inch diameter?) is heated via conduction. I suspect a gas-experienced wok user would have to modify his technique somewhat. (b) I recommend reading the first dozen pages or so of Greenheck's guide: http://www.greenheck.com/media/pdf/otherinfo/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf particularly the table on airflow rates, to gain insight into this subject. I usually recommend 90 CFM/sq. ft. of hood entry aperture. This is realized (actual) flow rate; blower rated flow rate may need to be 1.5X or more of this value depending on various factors. Hoods need to overlap the cooking zone, and side skirts may be called for in some configurations. MUA is a big deal and needs to be addressed at the same time as the ventilation approach. (c) If you were to use a commercial wok burner and commercial hood, the fire suppression is built in. I don't know what options are available to avoid a possible sprinkler mess vs. some other kind of chemical spray mess. Non-messy halon extinguishers may not be allowed in a home. What is allowed needs to be discussed with your code enforcement officer. I don't doubt that there is some construction approach that should be acceptable, but it is likely location specific. Also, ask your insurance company. Give up the idea of nesting the range and hood into a nice set of wood cabinets if you are going commercial. Stove and hood may need to be spaced away from any walls, which in most residences are combustible, no matter what surface materials are used to protect them. In new construction, or with sufficient land, thought could be given to following the approach of 'higher-end' historical Chinese rural homes -- wood construction kitchens were separated from the wood construction living quarters for good reasons. http://yinyutang.pem.org/