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neely_gw

Good grief Europe, here I come

last month

I start my visit to Italy, France and Ireland on the weekend. I’m hoping to show food we are eating and places as well.

I’m a little nervous as long flights are very tiring. This time however, we have seats that convert to full length bed lie down so I’m hoping to get some sleep on the first 14 hour flight and Yes I will be taking a sleeping pill.


Quite a trip for me as my husband is not coming. He just doesn’t feel up to it but wanted me to take this opportunity to travel. Our son’s partner is an Architect and the company has an exhibition at the Biennale in Venice so we 3 decided to travel together.


I am travelling the whole time with my son and his partner so not travelling alone, except for the first leg of the trip from Melbourne to Dubai. The others live in Sydney so we will meet up in Dubai an hour apart for next flight to Venice.


After Venice we 3 intend to explore the not so touristy areas of South of France. We have relatives in Montpellier so hope to visit them as well.


Then it will be onto Ireland where I’ve never been but look forward to it immensely. Staying mostly with relatives there but some nice/cute places as well. Travel and booking accommodation is so much easier with the internet.

Comments (46)

  • last month

    OMG that sounds like a fantastic trip! Venice, south of France, and Ireland!


    Please post profusely!


    My summer trip to France has been postponed so I will travel vicariously through you.


    Make it to Marseille!

    neely thanked John Liu
  • last month

    Best wishes for easy flights, and no jet lag (sometimes there is none after long flights).


    I hope you all have an amazing good time, clear skies, and never a bad meal.

    neely thanked plllog
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  • last month

    neely, Bon voyage! Your trip sounds wonderful. Imagine going to the Benniale with a family architect! It’s somewhat like the trip I have planned in a few weeks: meeting friends in Venice, then a road trip together through the Luberon, up the Atlantic Coast to Brittany and on to Paris- 4 weeks in all. John- and anyone else- I’d love to hear of any Marseille/ Provence tips you might have!

    neely thanked chinacatpeekin
  • last month

    Have a fabulous adventure!

    neely thanked Islay Corbel
  • last month

    Oh wow! Lucky you! Have a wonderful time, eat lots of great food and come home safely 😁

    neely thanked colleenoz
  • last month
    last modified: last month

    It sounds wonderful! Enjoy! and post lots of pics!!!


  • last month

    It does sound wonderful and I'll just repeat: Post LOTS of pictures, I've never been to any of those places either. I agree with your husband, take the opportunity and enjoy it!


    Annie

  • last month

    In Marseille, hang out in the Cours Julien area for the shops, street life, exuberant street art, etc. For more conventionally touristic sights, the Le Panier district north of Vieux Port. Lunch at Friche la Belle de Mai - get there before noon. Stay on or around La Canebiere, not because it is so pretty but because it is central and the heart of Marseille, and Maison Empereur is there. I’m not that impressed with the beaches but if you have a car then the Calanques is okay for an outing.


    I wrote some long threads about Marseille that have pictures etc. Don’t dangle purses, jewelry, expensive stuff - pretend you’re in ’70s NYC.


    Other towns/cities in the general area that DD liked visiting - Sette (but having just come from Venice, you might be sick of canals), Cassis (pretty coast town), Aix-en-Provence (lovely although I’m told Marseille people don’t like it, too Disneylandish). I’m not really a big Avignon fan.

  • last month

    John, thanks so much! We will be staying outside Goult for a week; we definitely plan on a day in Cassis et les Calanques. I much appreciate the Marseille recs, too! I’ll look for those threads…. On this trip, I’ll be introducing two friends to France- amazingly it is their first time there, although they otherwise are very well traveled. Fifty plus years ago, I went to school in Aix and spent a few enjoyable days there last year, during which time I made a pilgrimage to the incredible Maison l’Empereur. And I completely agree with you about Avignon!

  • last month

    Thanks for all the good wishes.

    John, a shame your trip this summer is postponed . Thanks for the info … we will be staying for a few nights in Cassis, which is only half an hour from Marseille so I would say it’s inevitable we will go there.

    Plllog … yes you’re right about sometimes no jet lag, plus the plane leaves in the evening, so I should be good for ‘some’ nightime sleep.

    Chinacatpekin… thanks for your good wishes and what a trip you have planned in the near future. Unfortunately, we won’t see Paris again this time.

    Cheers Islay

    Colleenoz… we are all hopeless ‘foodies’ so interesting food is definitely on the agenda. I hear creamed dried cod ( oxymoron?) is a specialty in Venice and I’m keen to try it.

    Annie and party music, thanks for the encouragement, much appreciated.

    ACTUALLY —— Not a good start and I haven’t even left yet. DH bought a French baguette from a local bakery and we had some of the left over toasted next morning. I cracked a tooth. Yelp!!!!

    Quick call to my dentist and Yes they could squeeze in an appointment for me in a couple of hours. Temporary fix, will probably need a crown when I get back, but thankfully I won’t have a gappy smile.

    Thank goodness it happened here at home as I wouldn’t have liked trying to find a dentist in another country with language considerations.

    Funny that my comment is food related… baguette, toast!!!!

  • last month

    Ooh! I am envious. Have an exciting trip!

  • last month
    last modified: last month

    Sounds like a great trip, and what a wonderful family expedition in Venice. Have a great time and I hope that long flight leg goes well --- the lie flat should make it more than tolerable.

    If anyone has questions on the Cote d'Azur (or even into western Provence or Liguria), I can answer them as well. We've had a second place in Nice now for 8 years, and I'll be spending two months there this summer (after 3 weeks in February). Although a train may be possible, you can get to Montpellier by car from Cassis. Arles is a worthy stop for the Roman ruins.

    If in France you have a dental emergency, you can search on doctolib.fr for emergency care with dentists that speak english (more likely in the larger cities like Nice). Use google translate or search on "urgence dentaire" for "Ou" type the city or postal code. Choose "anglais" for the "langue parlais".

  • last month

    Thank you so much Gooster for that information and how wonderful you have that second place in Nice … where I’ll be visiting in about a week Wow. I am starting to get excited.

    Thanks for the wishes petalique.

  • last month

    You are welcome neely.... do you have any questions or requests regarding your visit? You had indicated a desire to see some not so touristy areas. Where do you have planned?

  • last month

    Hope you have a great trip - I did not realize that you were in Melbourne.

    I lost a filling while chewing gum and walking down the street one night in Mexico City, but the following day, the friend I was staying with was having a party, and one of his guests was a dentist. He told me he would open his office up on Saturday just to fix my filling. My friend was shocked that I had met a dentist at his party, as he did not know that his guest was a dentist! However, the dentist did not speak English, but my Spanish was sufficient. He also did not charge me very much and even picked me up at my friend's house in Polanco.

    We are putting off going back to Europe until 2027, when we will have more money, after selling our house on Salem Rd. This will give me plenty more time to plan, but I hope I won't be too decrepit by then to enjoy it. I can't walk as far as I used to, and I am considering not going to Cruel World Festival this month. I would like to include Venice Italy on the next trip, plus Greece and Germany. I have some extremely distant relatives in Switzerland, but I was not planning to go there.

    You should get great food in Italy and France, but I don't know about Ireland - I've never heard it called a foodie destination. I've also never been to an Irish restaurant - they are probably more common on the East Coast of the U.S. than in California, where they are mostly just pubs with bar food. You'll probably get better food at your relatives' houses.

    Good luck with your dentist appointment - I had one a couple of days ago, and the dentist found way too many things to do in my mouth. I'm going to have to pace them out - my insurance only pays for about 75% of the cost, or maybe less.

  • last month

    :) Lars, You reminded me that one of my not-quite-cousins went to graduate school in Ireland, and his mom shipped him cases of Tobasco sauce. The standard little bottles fit in his pocket and he used it everywhere. I'm positive that the food is far better where toirists might go, and probably better in general, as the food here is. Thanks for the memory.


    Neely, It's been a long time since I travelled in Europe, but my best meals in France and Italy were lunches when I wandered off on my own and found little spots with lots of locals. It sounds obvious, but it's so true. And three can wander off too, if they're all amenable. It helps if you don't plan what you're going to eat, like ”let's get pizza” or fresh fish, or whatever, and just choose a place that's charming or smells good or is otherwise appealing, and stay if the menu sounds good.

  • last month
    last modified: last month

    Thanks Gooster, I am more or less in the others hands as to where we go and where we stay as I have been there a couple of times albeit many years ago. I did strongly suggest we stay a couple of nights in Cassis, where I haven’t been but my DH has been there and said it’s very nice but then again he was there many years ago. The only other place I know for certain we are going to is Cotignac as the others want to go white water rafting at Le Gorge…Gorges du Verdon. Not me, never in a million. I did do some kayaking in my 20’s … Le descente de la Lesse in Dinant Belgium.

    Hi Lars, thanks for the best wishes. Dentist stories when travelling are pretty scary but luckily yours turned out good for you. You’re right that Irish food doesn’t sound all that thrilling. I’m looking forward to trying their brown soda bread and eating lots of Atlantic cod which we can’t get here. Pub food should be pretty good washed down with a Guinness.

    Plllog, I know what you mean about letting the restaurant and meal evolve with the day. Some places you do have to book. We’ve booked for Ristorante Da Ivo which is near where we are staying in Venice. The gossip is that George Clooney and his gorgeous wife go there when in Venice, maybe not true but it looks terrific anyway.

  • last month

    @neely - we just returned from 21 days in Europe. We spent 3 days in Venice, so I'll concentrate my comments there.


    1. It's easy to get lost. Unless you're fluent in Italian, you're going to have a bit of trouble getting around. My suggestion is to ask for new directions every time you make more than three turns - either left or right - or cross over more than two canals.


    2. Go to Murano. Even if you don't buy anything (we did) their gift shop is an amazing experience.


    3. Book as much in advance as possible. The tourist queues are insane and you could waste hours standing in line to get into the Doge's Palace or the Duomo.


    4. Don't drink the water.

    neely thanked fawnridge (Ricky)
  • last month
    last modified: last month

    "the tourist queues are insane ..." No use to you, I know, but we always go in winter. Last time we had St. Marks almost to ourselves. Walked straight in ... but we did have to paddle some of the way in on duckboards. Be prepared for a lot of walking and seek out less busy areas like out by Arsenale. Also recommend the Scuola Grande di San Rocco and the Ospdale di Santi Giovanni e Paolo, an unfrequented medical museum in a fabulous building. Fascinating hidden gem and blessedly quiet.

    ... Contrary to Ricky, I have had no bother with the water anywhere in Italy. It's safe to drink everywhere including from the public water fountains in the street, as long as they're not marked 'non potabile'. I personally wouldn't spend time on Murano as the glass is not at all to my taste. And the trip out there eats into valuable exploring time. We stay on the mainland (cheaper) and get the local bus in. You get fabulous views of the lagoon and causeway for practically no money. Speaking of exploring, you can get lost, but it's no big deal as the place is so small and you usually emerge somewhere you can identify. I've done Venice with an old school map and with Google. Both work fine.

    neely thanked floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
  • last month

    I just read about the new not actually a visa entry system which is apparently about to debut. Or maybe about to start for USA but other dates for elsewhere? I expect you you know all about it already, but figured it doesn't hurt to mention it.

    neely thanked plllog
  • last month

    Thanks to Fawnridge (Ricky) and floral for both their insights into Venice. Do you have any food photos Ricky ? I’m delighted so many of us Cooking gardenweb Houzz people have been to that watery island. Thanks Plllog Yes we’ve been keeping an eye on that new system.

    Just letting you know whereabouts I will be staying in Venice. John, As I know you have stayed there before, I thought you might find this interesting. Unfortunately, I can’t yet put an arrow on my photos so it is a bit tricky to understand.

    We will be staying in a ground floor apartment on the rio Ca’ Michiel which is mentioned in the first photo. It is just around the corner from a Vaporetto stop on the Grand Canal where you can catch a water taxi or water bus. The Vaporetto stop is that white rectangle to the left and down from our ‘street’ on the watery island. We are not far from the Pont Di Rialto and about 700 metres from St Marks but only as that darn crow flies.





    We chose a ground floor apartment as for me climbing lots of stairs is not good .I laughed at some of the descriptions of apartments on the 3rd floor ‘ the stairs are only 60 steps’. I would possibly need oxygen after that climb. ( Only joking )

  • last month

    @neely --- are you going to Contignac and then driving to Castallene? That is where most of the white water rafting companies are located. If you don't join a boat you can take the drive along the rim, there are some beautiful viewpoints from the top of the canyon. Also, at the other end, at the lac de ste croix, you can rent kayaks and paddle up the gentler side.

  • last month
    last modified: last month

    Lots of the bridges have steps, so do pace yourself, Neely. It's entirely a walking and boating city so no chance of wheeled transport.

    neely thanked floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
  • last month

    @neely - I don't normally take a lot of food photos. But these two were special. The first one is the largest calzone I've ever been served. That's a 16" platter it's resting on. The second photo is from a restaurant we went to because it features Sicilian food. A cannoli and a casseta were our dessert choices.




    neely thanked fawnridge (Ricky)
  • last month

    @neely - one other not to miss place in Venice is the Peggy Guggenheim collection. Calder mobiles, Picasso paintings, Jackson Pollack drop cloths. Worth the price of admission and the time to peruse the galleries.

    neely thanked fawnridge (Ricky)
  • last month

    I visited Murano when I was young. The glassworks were very interesting— I was making art with glass at the time, so was particularly interested—plus the Jewish history there. You can get Murano glass all over the world. You're missing nothing by skipping the shop, where the items are likely not to your taste, anyway! Go ahead and get lost in the back alleys and canals of Venice proper, instead, where you might find interesting places to eat. ;)

  • last month

    I’ve only been to Venice twice before, most recently ten years ago, but I’ve wanted to return ever since. I’m dreading crowds of course- they seems worse everywhere since the pandemic- but plan to avoid places like St Mark’s Square, unless I go very early in the morning. I’ve seen the Basilica and Doge’s Palace before, so I will spend my time elsewhere.
    I actually enjoy getting lost in Venice- it’s my preference! If I run into a crowd, I just go the other way. I hope that strategy still works in 2025.
    I didn’t care much for Murano, but do plan to return to Burano, and especially to Torcello. I highly recommend a stop there to see the Basilica and its incredible Byzantine mosaics.
    My favorite Venice activity was riding the vaporetto up and down the Grand Canal (sitting outside of course), enjoying the sunset as the lights of the incredible Murano chandeliers shine the windows of the Palazzos as the sky turns dark. I did this almost every evening at dusk.
    @floral, I will definitely check out the Ospedale medical museum, thank you!
    Some other favorites I’ll return to- and recommend- are Ca d’Oro, the Fortuny Museum (nearby your apartment, Neely!), and the Guggenheim, of course.
    @gooster, if you have any restaurant or other recommendations near Goult, I would love them. I’ve been to the Luberon several times before, but it’s been at least ten years.

  • last month

    Top tip. Don't watch "Don't look now" before you go. 😉

    neely thanked floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
  • last month
    last modified: last month

    Thanks for the photos Ricky, I’d forgotten about cassata and yours is a Sicilian one. We have booked tickets to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum already and I am looking forward to it.

    Floral I do need to pace myself as I am getting on a bit in years as they say. . Lots of coffee stops and I’ll keep an eye out for red raincoats on little people.

    I don’t really fancy going to Murano myself, and turned down an all day bus tour of Brickworks on the mainland the day after we arrive… organised by the Architects Committee. I do want to take the short ride to Lido.

    Gooster, I looked up the distance from Cotignac to Castellene and I see it’s about an hour and half and I could also see the road along the top there. Yes I might drive that myself when the others are doing their water thing or drop them off and pick them up somewhere else. Thanks for heads up. Of course I may just laze around the villa doing some cooking!!!

  • last month
    last modified: last month

    Safe travels!

    The bridges are not to bad. At least they have railings.

    I liked Murano. Dale Chihuly spent some time there. He set up the glass program at my AlmaMater, RISD.

    The Gugenheim has an excellent collection. Pizza al Taglio is a great snack. All over Rome but i found this in Venice. Priced by weight so you can hold up a hand showing a couple inches and try a few. (i see aranchini)

    The outdoor markets should have some great produce now.



  • neely thanked sleevendog (5a NY 6aNYC NL CA)
  • last month

    @chinacatpeekin If you've been before, you know that le Bartavelle was a historic choice in Gould. If you are in Bonnieux and need something casual, relatively inexpensive and local, le p'tit coin des gourmands was the favorite of the owners of the small gites/B&B we stayed at. Le Fournil is a step up in price but with quality. In checking It is interesting that some of the restaurants seem to turnover pretty quickly (one of our favorites was replaced) -- it seems the space between super fine dining and local places is tough to navigate through the winter shutdowns.

  • last month

    Booster, thank you so much for the recommendations. I’ve been to the Luberon but never Goult, so these suggestions are very helpful.

  • last month

    Gooster I apologize for the autocorrect!

  • last month

    Speaking of large Calzone, here is one that Kevin got on a 16" plate in Siena:


    My plate has ricotta gnocchi.

  • last month

    Neely, the app called Waze worked perfectly while walking in Venice. It was impossible to get lost with that app. I was really impressed. I assumed the app was designed for driving so was surprised at how perfectly it worked there while exploring on foot. Although I shouldn’t be surprised, a map is a map right? Then again, not all apps are the same but WAZE was awesome on our trip there.

    neely thanked JoanM
  • last month
    last modified: last month

    Interesting about the calzone. When I first encountered them in my teens, they were giant, like even larger than the ones you're showing. I started noticing sometime in the last couple of decades, that they're being made single or double serving, and less than half the size.


    Joan, that's interesting. Of course, walking is easier. Where I live that app gives bad directions--or did a few years ago, I should say. I'm glad to hear that it has worked so well!

  • last month

    Finally hello again


    When first leaving Melbourne, I lounged around the Emirates lounge sampling their delicious food before boarding. I started with red and golden beetroot with goats cheese and moved onto a tiny 5 star spice duck pie with broccolini and braised eggplant which was delicious.



    Finished with a tiny but tasty chocolate patisserie.



    Of course they served dinner on board which I then couldn’t eat but managed to ‘fit in’’ some Arabic mezze….baba ganouche,, lamb kibbeh, hummus, olives. And had my first for the trip, Aperol Spritz and decided I definitely prefer Campari and soda. I had a mess around with my lie flat bed and found it was fine. Figured out how to charge my iPhone, took my sleeping pill, the bed was comfy and warm so I slept for 7 hours which was very good.


    Dubai Airport is enormous, huge. It was about 5 km from the terminal I landed to the terminal I had to leave for next flight… plus a fast train ride in the middle. Whew. Temperature was 31’C / 90’F outside at 5.30 in the morning as the sun was rising. The impressive high rise buildings emerging out of the early morning sea fog from the Persian Gulf was quite a sight.


    Anyway we are here in Venice and the apartment is lovely. Isn’t the entrance just what you would want to call home for a week in a historic European city.

    From what I’ve seen of Venice so far it is delightful. It is so quiet, of course no traffic noise and our apartment is not immediately near restaurants or cafes but they are only a couple of twisty laneways away.



  • last month

    Neely, where are you in Venice?

    neely thanked John Liu
  • last month

    John I can’t post on my own threads

  • last month

    Can you see this post anyone???

  • last month

    neely, I can see it!

    neely thanked chinacatpeekin
  • last month

    Oh thank goodness chinacatpeekin, looks like I can post here at last. Will post more later of my food adventures as I’ve got a train to catch to France. Now that’s a sentence you don’t hear everyday !!!

  • last month

    I can see your reply too! Looking forward to many more!

    neely thanked John Liu
  • last month
    last modified: last month

    I'm with you on the Campari Soda, Neely. I much prefer it to Aperol Spritz. Have a great time in France.

    neely thanked floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
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