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Teach me to make gumbo? Trials...

2 years ago

I've been collecting gumbo recipes for many years. None, individually, struck me as "that's it!" for me, but all the keepers sound good. I've had good gumbo. Recently, I ordered gumbo that looked good, and was especially dark, from a seafood place. It was not. Not good at all. The primary flavor was salt! It also tasted floury. And beefy (sure 'nuf, I found out that it had beef stock in it (maybe beef base) and that was the source of the dark, not exceptionally well toasted flour in the roux). As I result, I though it was time I tried making it myself. Then I thought better of it...but then the store had fresh okra (I guess there's no season for it anymore?) and I took that for a sign. They also had lovely large wild Mexican shrimp. Many of the recipes had some kind of spicy sausage with shrimp, so I got some of that, not wanting to pay for more seafood for an experiment. California spiny lobsters used to be cheap--now they're $$$$ and hard to find. I forgot to buy a green pepper, but had a red one and used that. I know it's not quite right flavorwise, but it's the right texture and I know the difference. I chose one of the simpler recipes to try to follow, 2/3 by the ingredients I had.


All of the recipes use the same basic directions for the roux--equal parts fat and flour, in a large quantity, over moderate heat. Well. I supplemented the fat from the sausage with some olive oil I've made hundreds of roux, though smaller, and wasn't fussed by this, except it wasn't browning. I finally turned up the heat and it did get deep brown (though not as brown as on TV), but it didn't reduce as much as I'm used to. I added flour but I probably should have added more. Next time, I think I'll make it my way, rather than measuring.


Assembling the rest was just making soup. I tried to keep the proportions the same as written, except that I halved the salt and doubled the herbs (i.e., "to taste"). And cooked as directed. I did the chopping seated in front of the Olympics, trying to conserve energy, but it all took awhile so it went way past dinner. The shrimp needed cooking, so I put them in the pot after turning off the heat. I did pinch some after pouring into small containers, trying as I might to get equal amounts of "stuff" in each. The shrimp just cooked in the gumbo was amazingly good!


But...what was put in those containers taste okay but it was very brothy--not thickened at all by the roux nor the gumbo. Huh? I was a bit worried that I was going to have to pitch it! Soup for breakfast is not unusual here, and I was hoping it would all meld well in the fridge. Making rice would have been daunting in the a.m. but I had some left over Cuban rice and beans, heavy on the rice, so I warmed that and a couple ladles of the wannabe gumbo. The flavor was excellent. It has more vegetable presence than I've seen before, which probably means it should have been cooked down more, but I like the veg-ness and it was all tasty. It was definitely thicker--I assume the okra was finally doing its thing. But it wasn't quite there, and missing something, though very flavorful throughout.


I remembered that the recipe also had filé. I know it's supposed to be one or the other, but I have a small jar, so I added just a little pinch to my bowl. That did it! I was surprised at how much the smallest of pinches helped the body, and it started it tasting like actual gumbo, so I guess my associations with good gumbo include filé. :)


Now that I've made one batch of wannabe gumbo adjacent, do y'all have any suggestions for improvement beyond an actual green pepper, crabs, and, of course, a better roux? I'm never going to use bacon drippings, but I really can make a good roux.


I forgot to take a picture and it doesn't look like anything in the container, so I'll try to remember next time.

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