No, not likely helpful adding anything to the seed starting mix. Nutrients needed to germinate are already stored within the seed. What you need to provide is moisture, the right temperature, light if appropriate. Additional fertilizer isn't necessary until after the first couple of pairs of true leaves have grown out, you can cautiously add some then, typically mixed to about 1/4 the strength the directions on the package label of your product indicates. At what point to you think your prior issues have taken place, are you having trouble achieving germination, growing the seedlings on once they've germinated...someone here can help if you give more information.

Chiman... here you go! This is by no means a complete list... ; ) Albanian Koriandër e kultivuar Amharic Dimbilal Arabic Kuzbara, Kazbarah Armenian Kinj Bengali Dhoney Bulgarian Koriandur Burmese Nan nan zee (fruits), Nan nan bin (herb), Naunau Catalan Celià ndria, Coriandre Chinese Yan Shi, Fan Yan Sui, Yuen sai, Wan-Swee, heong choy(herb), Hu sui (fruits) Croatian Korijandar Czech Koriandr Danish Coriander Dutch Ketoembar, Koriander English Coriander, Chinese parsley, Indian parsley (herb) Esperanto Koriandro Estonian Aedkoriander, Koriander Farsi Geshniz Finnish Korianteri French Coriandre, Punaise mâle, Persil arabe Gaelic Coireiman, Lus a choire Georgian Khinji German Koriander, Wanzenkümmel, Chinesische Petersilie, Indische Petersilie (herb) Greek ?????????, ?????????, ?????????  Koliandro, Koriantro, Koriandro Gujrati Dhane, Dhana (fruits), Kothmir (herb) Hebrew Gad, Kusbara Hindi Dhania , dhanya(fruits), Hara dhania (herb) Hungarian Koriander, Cigánypetrezselyem, Beléndf?, Zergef? Icelandic Kóríander Indonesian Ketumbar (fruits), Daun ketumbar (herb) Italian Coriandolo Japanese Koyendoro, Koendoro (herb) Latvian Kinzas, Koriandrs Laotian hong pomn Lithuanian Kalendra Kannada Havija, Kambari Khmer Vannsui, Chi van-suy Laotian Phak hom pom, phak hom pam (herb) Malay Ketumbar (fruits), Daun ketumbar, Wansui (herb), Penjilang Malayalam Kottamalli Marathi Dhanya, Dhane (fruits), Kothimbir (herb) Norwegian Koriander Pahlawi Gishniiz Pashto Gashneez Polish Kolendra siewna Portuguese Coentro Romanian Coriandru Russian Kinza, Kishnets (herb); Koriandr (fruits) Sanskrit Dhaniyaka, Kustumburi Singhalese Kotthamallie Slovak Koriander Slovenian Koriander Spanish Coriandro, Cilantro, Cilandrio, Culantro Swahili Giligilani Swedish Koriander Tagalog Kulantro, Unsuey, Wansuey, Uan-soi (herb) Tamil Kothamalli Telugu Dhaniyalu, Kotimiri Thai Pak chi met, Phak hom, Phak Cheethai (herb), Mellet pak chi (fruits) Tibetan Sona pentsom, So na pad tshom Turkish Ki?ni?, Ki?nic Ukrainian Koriandr posyvnyj Urdu Dhania Vietnamese Mui, Ngo, Ngo ta, Ngò Rí(herb) For more on the etymology of the word, see these websites: Spice Dictionary (Scroll Down to Etymology) More

Does your fence add value? Absolutely. Probably not as much as the fence cost, as that type is expensive, but it is something buyers will notice and prefer it over something cheaper like chain link. It looks like it is built well and should last a very long time. I like natural color fences, but a white stain would look nice too. It doesn't detract from your home, but it doesn't look quite right either. As others have said, the arbor is top heavy. In the photo Annie posted, the posts are 4x4 like yours and the lintel (or top cross piece) is a 2x8 (double the width) where yours is a 2x12 (triple the width). And the posts are set behind the fence rather than in line with it. Just a suggestion, but I think the easiest fix (and husbands doing the work wouldn't call it easy) would be to double your 4x4's, like this. The posts can be set into the ground, or just attached to the existing posts since they won't show from the front. I like the window inset idea, but it would mean rebuilding most of the fence since the slats support the top rails. You could build your own window out of the same material as the rails, and simply cut out the back slats, or every other slat in the upper part of the gate. I would also extend the bottom rail, just because it looks better. Something like this: Also, it looks like the top is only attached to the posts by nails. I'd suggest bolting the lintels to the posts. If the nails worked loose, that could crash down on someone opening or closing the gate, and two 2x12s are heavy.

You do not need the perlite or vermiculite - the garden blend soil should be fine. A raised bed is not the same as a container and does not require the degree of drainage enhancement a container soil does. It will drain reasonably well with any sort of soil just by virtue of its elevation :-) Ideally, you just want a decent mineral based soil enhanced with some organic matter. And that's what a "garden blend" soil typically offers. IMO, vermiculite's ONLY use should be limited to propagation. Even as a container soil additive it is problematic as once it is fully saturated with water it will collapse and compress, losing any characteristics of drainage enhancement it might have had and so will actually work to slow drainage. It is expensive and pointless to add to any planting soils.