In my zone 6b Pennsylvania garden, I grown Gemini, Tamora, Lavaglut and olog. I have a friend in the same zone (near me) who has Cherry Parfait and a DIL who has Frederick Mistral. I'm thinking you might have slightly more humidity than I. My gardens are all day south exposed full sun. Gemini is a wonderful rose and does quite well, even with disease resistance, but like Diane NJ say, it shuts down over the very hottest, most humid part of the summer. Winters, it seems quite strong. Besides being very small, Tamora doesn't do so well in the heat and humidity either and is more prone to black spot. I'm not as thrilled with this rose as I could be and it suffers from winter die back. Frederick Mistral also suffers from winter kill, but not to the extent as Tamora. It is also a larger bush, more heat tolerant but still prone to black spot. Cherry Parfait, olog and Lavaglut are all outstanding in the gardens around here. Cherry Parfait is more prone to black spot, but is winter strong. Olog and lavaglut will get blackspot in my garden toward the end of the season and I do spray, but not as regularily as some of the others. Remember to keep Tamora, olog and Lavaglut toward the front of the bed since all these roses have a tendency to be squatty. Tamora looks more like a miniature except for the leaf and bloom size. The plant is so extremely tiny. This is just my take. All roses act differently in different areas.

There's a thread on Mons tiller fries in the sun, see below: "Mine fried after an hour or two in the sun, more so than my other tea roses so it's no longer with me in my hot garden. Clementina Carbonieri did the same thing. A pity, since both are beautiful roses. Ingrid." ***** From Straw: I'm adding own-root Yves Piaget on my rose-order for next year, along with Young Lycidas and Romantica "The McCartney" rose. I researched again on Yves Piaget: the person who grows Yves both as own-root vs. grafted reported wimpiness for both. Someone from PNW (rainy & cool) climate also reported Yves being wimpy. Robert Rippetoe in his Rancho Mirage climate of exreme heat, drought, and alkaline sandy soil .... grows Yves Piaget and uses it in his breeding program ... so it must be very good for him. I figured out what makes Romanticas works: fluffy potting soil for the roots to get big, then transfer to fertile clay. I have Yves Piaget's children bred by Robert Neil, I put gypsum in the pots, and they went beserk with growth. Ingrid in this forum once grew Yves, but it didn't do well in the heat ... she has loose de-composed granite soil high in potassium. That's different from Ingrid in Thousand Oaks, who has clay. According to Wikipedia, high potassium or high nitrogen drives down calcium. The Romanticas have a higher demand for calcium than other roses, they are very sensitive to salt, so saline soil is not suitable. Calcium in gypsum is used to de-salt saline soil. That explains why Mons.Tillier works for Jaspermplants in Arizona, but didn't work for Ingrid with high-potassium soil. Arizona is alkaline clay high in calcium like my Chicagoland clay ... I'm next to a limestone quarry. Calcium is known to firm up tissue of plants, and helps with drought-tolerance, which explains for the success of Romanticas in my limestone clay. Here's an excerpt on calcium from the site http://www.oxyfertil.com/royaume-uni/role-ca-mg-plante.html · increases the plant tissues' resistance and allows for more erect stems · contributes to normal root system development · increases resistance to outside attack Here is a link that might be useful: Does your Mons. Tillier fry in the sun? This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Fri, Jul 12, 13 at 10:58

Agree on Radio Times and Marie Pavie for heat & drought tolerant. Rain here leaches out calcium, and I always get wilting shoot on roses after heavy rain. I lime the ones that got wilted shoot, and they become perky in the heat at 90 F afterwards. The dolomitic lime dust (22% calcium and 12% magnesium) is fast-acting and works immediately when dissolved in water. Back in 2012 with very alkaline soil pH of 8 and high-calcium tap water at pH 9, my roses didn't wilt when it was over 100 F one summer with drought. Nitrogen fertilizer makes soil more acidic, and roses in pots always wilt after high-nitrogen fertilizer if it's above 90F. So I use alfalfa meal plus lime as my source of no-salt nitrogen for pots. My myrrh scents: Carding Mill, Mary Magdalene, St. Cecilia don't wilt in high heat above 90F. St. Cecilia lasts long in the vase with thick petals that can withstand hot sun better than Carding Mill and Mary Mag. Below is St. Cecilia (own-root) gets my vote as the best myrrh scent, always fragrant no matter how hot it gets. Like it so much that I want a second one. It's a compact & small bush and can take acidic rain plus full hot sun well:

James Galway gets over 20 feet tall in late fall as 7th-year-own-root in my zone 5a. James' Blooms has amazing carnation scent when aged in the vase. It lasts 5+ days in the vase. Below bouquet was taken mid-July, showing pink Comte de Chambord, and bright-red L.D. Braithwaite at center (lasts long in the vase, but not much scent). Left yellow is Golden Celebration (form is bad in hot & dry). Dark reds are W.S. 2000, it's a continuous bloomer as 12th-year-own-root. Lavender Crush is good for the vase, it used to be deep ugly purple, I don't like the color so I dug out the top 1 foot of clay and mixed pelletized lime to soften the color, and it has been 100% healthy with zero blackspots, plus the color is lighter & prettier: Below pic. showing Lavender Crush with zero blackspots as 7th-year grafted-on-Dr.Huey. Pic. taken this August 11, 2022. It's over 5 feet tall and blooms at the top: