MG potting soil is fine, but other mediums should added. I mix soils and non-soil-less mixes together. For my 2 Lipsticks, the soil consist of Miracle Gro, a handful of house plant soil, coarse sand, handful of peat, and Perlite. They hang in a west window, in the bathroom. Can't use a humidity tray when plants hang so 4 showers per day and daily misting increases humidity, (lipsticks need humidity) Lyssa, as long as your container has drainage holes, soil is well-draining, and watering isn't done too often, (daily, like some ppl tend to do,) there's no reason to worry about overwatering. To be honest, my lipsticks are watered when soil dries, but if you wait too long, they wilt or drop. Overwatering causes wilt and felled leaves too, so the best thing is to familiarize watering habits. Aside from using sand and perlite, both lipsticks are rootbound, so chances of overwatering are next to nil. If you worry about overwatering, use smaller pots. Lipsticks are more likely to bloom when roots are snuggly. Your lipstick will thrive in an east window, but lessens chance of flowering and sturdy foliage. Unless your plant is right against the pane and/or getting additional artificial light. Consider obsturctions like curtains, blinds and trees... Lipsticks are early bloomers..Once you see growth, start fertilizing. I alternate by using an All Purpose fert, then, the following month, Flowering fert. Herbs are difficult..they need fresh air and a good amount of sunlight, there's no comparison. If you've just started growing plants, don't count herbs. Since your leaves were soft brown, the soil wasn't being kept too dry. It's a good idea to check for insects. I'm not saying that's the problem, but one never knows unless they inspect plants regularly. Do you know what to look for? So far, saturating soil and removing dead foliage is a good start. Periodic spraying in sink or shower, or if you're into misting, helps with humidity, especially if the air in your house is dry. Good luck..Toni

I have two Spathiphyllums that I split when they were small years ago. I had trouble with them wilting as well when I first got them. Either the pot is too small or too big. Never repot a plant in a pot over 1 1/2 inches bigger than the existing pot. I put mine in a big pot twice the size of the poor plant, I had no experience with plants back then, and the plant never got any bigger and it wilted. Turns out the soil around the root ball was staying wet and the roots were starting to rot. I split the plant and put them in different pots and now they are so big I have to buy huge pots for them. They are at the point of being split more than once each. I give them lots of fertilzer and water then regularly. More in the summer time but I keep mine out on the porch when it's warm out. The indoor temperature effects them as well. If where they are right now is cool from the AC they need less water. If the heater is on they will need more. To check your plants to see if they are thirsty put your pointer finger in the soil one inch. If it is dry to the tip of your finger water the plant. If it is moist they are ok for that time. Light: these plants need medium light (no direct sunlight- they will burn and turn brownish gray) and need to be away from drafts - AC vents, doors and open windows. Make sure you don't have root-rot going on or nematodes...if you have these evil pests kill the plant and burn it...nematodes can live in dry foliage and soil for over a year! Prun away any dead or dieing foliage because that way the nutrtion will be going to the healthy stems instead. Make sure the soil is well drained and there is a drain hole in the bottom of your pot. DO NOT let the plant sit in water in a saucer because that's where the salts from the soil drain to. If you let the plant sit in it the plant with suck back up these harmful salts. After each watering empty the saucer. Watering overhead is better than watering from the saucer. The suction from the water pulls the salts from the soil into the saucer making the plant healthier... you may have a salt build up killing your Spath. And with the roots Peace Lilies will survive in plain water as long as they are fed fertilizer, half the roots are out of the water (oxygen) and the other half is in the water (water and nutrition). I love Peace Lilies and this is what I have learned over the years about these magnificent plants. (Besides taking a college coarse on interior plants)I hope my info helps. Good Luck with your plants!!!

Sorry to disagree with Pat: I also think putting both pots in front of the window is a shock. I would have left them between the windows where you had them to begin with. That corner was too dark for jades. They like lots of light and will grow much better in front of the window. Unless they were in very dark conditions for a while and are moved suddenly into very sunny spot (I do not believe that is possible in winter, in Michigan), there should be no problem. Moving plants into strong sunlight from indoors could cause sunburn, and plants should be acclimatized. I believe Steven meant moving the plants from place to place - like from a store, where it sat for a while, to a house...Some plants will respond by dropping many leaves when location is changed (ficus Benjamina is known for doing that). Personally, I do not have that experience with jades. And I move them around a lot.

i havent. i re potted it into a bigger pot and used new soil. and have been keeping an extra good eye on it. it is still alive but i ant tell if it is getting worse or better. as of right now its a brown stick in a pot. haha but is still green inside and the roots aren't brittle. just brown. i snipped a small root the other day to see what it looks like inside and it is not white but not brown