everyone else is correct, bring it outside asap. i'm not sure where you are in arizona, but you are probably close to zone 7. your tree is most likely a japanese juniper, these really prefer to be in a colder zone, but as long as you pay close attention you can make it work. you will want to check the soil several times a day. gently dig down an inch or so and if it's still moist then let it be. if it is dry, give it a good soak. as you are watering it don't worry about getting it too wet, the soil and pot are designed to not hold too much water. misting it once or twice a day is not a bad idea either. here is a good reference for general care: http://www.bonsai-bci.com/species/garden-juniper.html

I'm almost positive that there is drainage....in the re-pot pic, I think I can see the water that has drained out of the pot on the wood below....and then, of course, there's the matching saucer, which I wouldn't expect to see unless there were a drain hole. I'm also fairly certain that this is Pachira aquatica, and any rounded leaves (dead tips) are due to the cultural conditions in which its been grown. Josh

I'm no expert, so these are just tips:) Changing the soil can be stressful on the plant. If you are removing it from the ground, use at least some of the natural soil. "Miracle Grow" is a neat benefit now problem later sort of product. Some of the nutrients are fantastic, but some varieties of soils and foods contains hormones that encourage fast growth which only cause weakness later. I like to get a simple B complex and regular compost (I use my horses for that), peat moss, and perlite. None of this means the soil is your problem, to that question I honestly don't know the answer. When taking shoots, get as much root as possible. But, not all plants can survive this process. I took 2 shoots from 4 varieties, all were ones I was told could handle being transplanted as root shoots, and only one did well. How about that? I have been told to get 12 inches or more of root. So, be prepared to get down, dig slowly and carefully, and for it to take a while:) If you get enough root even if the parent plant dies off the roots will send you more shoots in the near future. One of the shoots I took that made it is now 5 lil trees. I will soon have to decide which one to keep and which ones to pluck! Finally, choose the smallest shoots. The roots you get will be more likely able to support and feed/water a small plant during the critical first few months after transplant. You can also try taking cuttings. That is, take the shoot and leave the roots. If the shoot has grown this year it will be comprised of nice green wood. Remove all but the top one or two leaves, cut the wood just at the lowest node (leave the node intact) and set the stem in water. I leave them in water for 48-72 hours before starting the next step. But you can skip the water step all together, it's a matter or preference and method. Injure the end of the stem lightly by taking just a shaving of bark off one side. Then dip the stem into a rooting hormone compound like Rootone. Plant the stem in a light weight soil. I use 33/33/33 mix of perlite, peat moss, and sand. But 50/50 perlite and peat moss is a good mix too. Wet the soil before adding the stem, and cover the plant in plastic. I like to take 10 stems from one plant, trim them, do the water phase, dip them in rooting hormone, then plant them in one large pot. I then put a plastic jug from my kid's apple juice over the pot to work as a mini green house. The point is too keep the plant moist but not soggy so it stays wet but doesn't mold. Also, keep them indoors until they are well established. Extreme heat will just plain dry them out. I'm sorry I didn't answer your second question, I just don't know the answer:) Hope the rest of this helps!

I'm so sorry, but, it doesn't look completely dead yet. Your potting mix looks very wet or is it just very black? Young lychee plant don't need the extreme moistness of larger trees does. Carefully pulled out the tree and look at the root ball/system. If they are still whitish and not dark brown. Then the lychee still has a fighting chance. All those leaves will eventually drop or you can pull them off now. It will be a slower process to regrow new leaves, but, if the root system is dark brown, then it is most likely dead. But, whitish roots, still have hope for recovering. Will be slower, but will recovered. I have some young plants like that too, all the leaves died and turned brown. But their root system is still alive, just took longer to recover, after such a stressful period of leaf drops. Hang on to the little guy, it will recover, eventually. Just don't give it water unless you notice the soil is getting on the dry side.