Designing a kitchen that has yellow/orange original floors…
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Sabrina Alfin Interiors
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Toning down my WAY too yellow-orange walls...
Comments (19)lazygardens, Highway Stripe Orange is how my builder described the color too! He tried to make me feel better by claiming it was growing on him but finally admitted it was pretty bad. Scarlett, we used Ivoire for the ceiling and it's lovely. I took lazygardens' advice and painted some swatches on large white sheets of poster board and checked them at different times of the day. I ultimately decided to go with SW Blonde, which coincidentally is the color my painter has in his own house. He said he'd painted it several times in spec homes and liked it so when he repainted his house, he used it. That made me feel quite a bit better. Anyway, he repainted my walls this weekend and hardly charged me much for the change. It is SO much better. I was worried it might be too neutral, but it still has a golden tone in most light. I don't have fixtures in yet, but as I tend to prefer warmer light bulbs, I imagine the lights will only enhance the golden tones which is what I want. I'm very happy with it. If anyone else is going for that South of France yellowy gold color, I recommend trying it. I almost went with SW Restrained Gold which is one shade darker on the same paint strip, but I'm glad I went with my first instinct. It's perfect. Oh, and for those who asked, the finish was and is eggshell. No problem at all covering the orange color with the new golden color. I'd say there was about four days between paint and repaint....See MoreToning down my WAY too yellow-orange walls...
Comments (6)Thinking of primer as necessary to cover existing color is incorrect. Primer doesn't cover up color. Primer goes on 'sketchy' because it's primer and not a final coat. Many people think a coat of primer is supposed to be totally opaque, solid, and even. That's not how primer works nor is it what it is for. Tinted/gray primer creates an ideal substrate for the NEW color. If you need a tinted/gray primer for the new paint color, you're going to need it no matter what the existing color happens to be. If the color you've chosen does not require a tinted/gray primer, then it's going to cover with the same opacity whatever color is on the walls - doesn't matter if it's off white or sunshine yellow. Coverage will be the same provided it's applied at the appropriate thickness and the recommended two full coats are applied. Changing your mind about a color after the walls have been professionally prepped is actually no big deal. Might have to pay to apply two additional coats but you've already paid for the prep. All the hard work has been done. If you don't like the color that went up, now is the perfect time to change it. It's like ripping off a band aid. Just do it and get it over with and once it's done, you'll feel better....See MoreNeed Help - Wall paint to tone down Orange/Red Floors
Comments (6)Look at SW Evening Shadow (SW 7662) it is a nice light grey. The problem is if you are looking at a sample in a room that still has that some of that yellow/orange paint on the walls it will reflect the color and make the grey look different that what it will look like when the entire room is painted. Your floors will look better when all that yellow and orange are gone....See MoreNatural white oak flooring stained yellow/orange - can it be 'fixed'?
Comments (20)SJ McCarthy, I do have photos of the cracking and rising floor boards. And of the spotty finish, streaks, and drips. The boards have sat untouched and unfinished in our AC home for the last nine months, and within days of the oil and water applications the cracking and rising occurred. It’s been less than ten days since the floor has been finished. The guy who did the work was the owner of a highly rated flooring refinishing company in my area. We agreed to use a water-based finish which is on my contract as Poloplaz 1k water-based floor finish with a matte sheen. When he arrive he talked me into using an oil-based product instead, stating that it would keep the natural color as it is, but also preserve the wood. I apologize for repeating myself here -- I was so fearful of the oil yellowing the white oak which I stated many times to him, but he assured me if it did yellow it wouldn’t be for fifteen to twenty years. He said he would be using a clear, natural, expensive oil-based polyurethane finish that was newly opened. I'm not sure of the brand but I do have a photo of the yellow oil drip down the side of one of the white panels around the stairs. The next day after the oil application he added the matte flat water-based finish and I absolutely know what product he used because after the second coat was applied I followed him out to his truck voicing my concerns about the color/finish of the floor and he showed me the container… Bona Traffic HD extra matte. That’s when he blamed the product for the streaky look of the finish. He said he doesn’t like using this Bona product for quality reasons but because I insisted on a matte finish he didn’t have a choice. He said he could use a different product but it would leave a shine and not have the matte look I wanted. Thankfully the guy did not apply the 'natural poly' over the factory finished Shaw floors. My contract with him states that he would apply it over the entire dining area, and I was charged for it, but at the last minute the decision to not do it was made. The guy is not affiliated with my general contractor because I wanted to hire a flooring ‘professional’ who truly understood hardwood floor finishes. I was incredibly anxious and very select about what I wanted in the finish and it took me a while to find and then trust someone. Unfortunately I paid him in full. Contractors, here at least, are allowed to have a lien against your home if you withhold payment and because I'm not familiar with what that truly means legally for me, as the homeowner, I paid. Thank you for your information regarding an inspector from NWFA -- it's a great idea and I will most certainly make a few phone calls. Recent research has informed me that an oil-based polyurethane needs to cure for at least two weeks to 60 days before adding a water-based finish, do you know if that statement is true? And if so then the pro not waiting for the curing time before applying the water-based finish likely and knowingly voided the warranty on the Bona product -- he's been in business a long time so he would know. Also, is a natural polyurethane the same as an oil-based polyurethane? I'm just making sure I understand everything before speaking with an inspector. Thank you so very much for your advice and time, SJ McCarthy, I really appreciate all of your help....See Moreapple_pie_order
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