Yikes! I am so sorry but that looks ruined. Hopefully Joseph Corlett will see this.

Really upset by this and hoping there is a solution without having to rip everything out and starting over and having to pay for it all again

I saw Joseph’s previous post’s about using the quartz renew but can’t find any local experts that have even heard of it.

This is exactly why I said what I said on your other post.

I would be too!

Can you post a picture of the bad seam, before the ”fix”?

Not that it really matters, but I am just curious how Joe or one of the other Pros here would have remedied it.

Eta: Nevermind. I see it on your other thread.

Sent a few messages to various places on yelp and thumbtack and they said “We use a different grits of diamond pads and then we use a polishing compound to bring the shiny back”

Prices are around $500-600. Wondering if I’m just throwing away my money. It’s about $3500 to remove and replace.

Hopefully Joseph reads this post

Thanks Joseph for your reply. Do you think I need to use quartz renew? Is it possible to convert to a farm sink without completely replacing the counter tops? I’m thinking that would only work if the farm sink completely covers the existing cut out

"Do you think I need to use quartz renew?"

QR isn't a DIY project, unless you practiced on a remnant.

"Is it possible to convert to a farm sink without completely replacing the counter tops?"

Yes.

Post the size or your sink base cabinet (33", 36", etc.), the distance from the front edge of the countertop to the rear of the cutout and the distance from the cabinet front, not the drawer, to the front edge of the countertop and I'll tell you what choices you have.

See attached picture of measurements. Outside cabinet is 37 3/4 and inside is 36 1/8.

Also do you know anyone in Southern California that can do this job

The counter top has 7/8 overhang

Bob Z:

You can retrofit a short apron Elkay Quartz Luxe Ferguson model

; it has the larger footprint you need.

Ted McFadden of Sureshine Service Network is in SoCal. Best in the business.

Thanks Joseph I’ll try to reach out to him. Would this sink fit? R3942-2-NA kohler. If I got a long apron what modification would be needed to the cabinet besides the shorter doors

Unfortunately that company said they don’t do this kind of job

It sounds like @Joseph Corlett, LLC is advising you need a shorter apron front - the Elkay quartz composite one that he linked has an apron front with height of 6-9/16". You won't have to modify your existing cabinetry under the sink. The regular-height apron fronts are about 9-10" tall, and I am guessing that would would not fit with your existing cabinetry underneath the sink.

But if you do not want a Quartz composite sink, and want a stainless steel sink with a short apron front, then Elkay also makes a stainless steel farmhouse sink #ECTRUF30179RC with a short apron front. It is designed to be installed over existing cabinets. Though the apron is shorter, the sink bowl itself is 9" deep which is a typical depth for a farmhouse sink. This model also has the corner drain which is a plus. This model also comes with a sink grid, which on its own costs about $80-120.

Thanks for sharing. I found one installer but he said he would only install it over mount and not under

Keep looking for installers - there must be many in your location. Or, ask Joseph if he wants to come to California?

Even the short apron linked above won’t work without getting new doors. I have only 5 3/16 for the apron part. However it doesn’t seem like a big deal to get new doors as I’m already replacing all my kitchen doors

RoyHobbs:

While the Elkay sink you mentioned is nice, it won't work in this application because unlike the Elkay composite, the rear sink flange will be short of the rear cutout which means the rear top rails would have to be replaced or the sink would have to have a faucet deck welded on. With either of those additional expenses, a custom made apron sink becomes a cost efffective alternative.

Bob z:

The Kohler 3942 will probably work without altering the doors. The sink comes with a cardboard jig that tells you whether or not it will work before you alter anything.

What is the thickness of your countertop and the distance from the top of the top to the bottom of the drawer please?

"Unfortunately that company said they don’t do this kind of job"

Ima hafta have a talk with Ted.

The counter top is 2 cm with a laminated edge making it 4cm at the edge. The height from the bottom of the counter top to the doors is actually 6 and 1/4 inch

From top of counter top to doors top is 7 and 3/4 inch

Bob z:

This is what a retrofitted undermount sink looks like when the top is 2 cm and has a 2cm front edge. Any short apron sink will work. The apron on the Ferguson is 6 9/16"; you've got 6 1/4" -+ 3/4" (the removed 2 cm edge) = 7" so you may have a 5/16" gap at the bottom of the apron to cover with matching trim.

You'll need 8 1/4" to make a top mount Kohler 3942 work, but you could sneak a 1/2" off the top of the doors fairly inconspicuously as the sink covers the door tops. You may be able to lower your doors; it depends upon your layout and how fussy you are.

I also have to add trim to the sides of the cabinet. The opening is 36 1/8 while the sink width is 35 3/4.

Joseph, what method would you use to take out existing sink without damaging the countertop? There is only 1 inch gap between the current sink bowl and the sides of the cabinet so it’s a tight fit for any tool

Bob z:

Either your cabinets are oddball custom size or you're not measuring exactly. It appears to me you have a 36" sink base cabinet. When you place a tape measure at the dishwasher cabinet side and pull it across to the left seam between the left doors/drawers and the adjacent cabinet, you should measure 36". Even if your cabinet was somehow 36 1/8", the sink will work without trim on the sides.

To get the sink out and the new one in without removing the countertop, the front of the cabinet is tapped off, first and second picture above. This makes plenty of room under there.:

The sink will be strapped, not clipped or blocked in place, so no need for space for them.

Here are the straps. Note that the top of the cabinet side has been relieved to allow the sink flange to pass and sit on top. The strapped sink does the structural work that the missing cabinet sides/tops did after the sink is strapped in place.

Well I got it done. Only concern is they didn’t install any support for it under the sink. They said the sink is lightweight and support is needed for heavier porcelain or cast iron sinks. It seems to be resting on top of the quartz and the plywood under it. Is that enough? Should I add two of these under it? https://www.amazon.com/Iron-Supports-Front-Mount-Bracket/dp/B0BG2MHZG8

See pic

" It seems to be resting on top of the quartz and the plywood under it. Is that enough?"

Yes.

"Should I add two of these under it?"

No. Waste of time and money.

Love the blue. Nice touch.

Actually it came with a few dents so planning to exchange and left the tape on. Thanks Joseph for the suggestion

I am so glad Joseph was able to help you. It looks great!