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Home Repair DIY

curtain rod screw/anchor coming out of the wall to fix

last month

I installed a curtain rod from ikea with the provided hardware. One of the screws is coming out of the wall. It was in an anchor. I’m not sure if the anchor broke in the wall. Is there an easy way to repair this in a way that is safe and won’t fall down?

Featured Answer

PRO

Windows on Washington Ltd

last month

Get a stud finder and find the structural wall framing.

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Comments (12)

A Mat
last month
Thecurtain rod mayhave been too heavy for the fastener, or user error.

Remove and replace. How much does the curtain rod assembly weigh?

Are you attempting to fasten to dry wall. Are you familar with toggle bolts? Didyour ikea come with blue anchors? I do not like the hammer into drywall anchors.

Your walls maybe chalk and shoud be treated as such.

Are you able to find wall studs? Any building experience/exposure?
Daniel Fhima
Original Author
last month
It is drywall and I don’t know the weight but they’re very light.

It was similar to the blue anchor. They were white but they were the hammer in type. Not familiar with toggle anchors. The studs were too far away from where it needed to be around the window on that side.

No real building experience. Minimal DIY stuff
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The biggest problem I see, is that either you told him, or you thought you told him. Big difference. Hanging all of this on him, without knowing specifically what was said, probably isnt going to go over very well. If you decide to change it, its gonna be costly, for whoever gets to pay for it. I do agree about the countertop on the dining room side being a problem. With that said, if it were mine, I'd: Assuming they are framed cabinets, then, you could leave the uppers as they are, have the cabinet guy trim 1/4 inch off of each base scribe in the range opening. This would pull the base to the right 1/2 inch, allowing you to at least have a half inch overhang on your counter, and the counter would line up with the upper above, regardless. Typically, I try to line the countertop up with the upper anyway, and not worry about the base lining up in these types of applications. I think it looks better when ending tile, backsplashes, wallpaper etc. That seems to be the easiest fix to all of the problems, without having to rebuild 3 cabinets this late in the game.
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Could it just be the rod? I have a similar problem with the curtains in my guest room. It's one of those adjustable rods that goes from 44-80" or something like that. The problem is that in order to adjust, one of the rods slides inside the other rod. So the one side has a smaller diameter rod than the other side, which makes one side look like it's hanging lower/crooken than the other side. It's very noticable in my guest room too (to me - other people probably wouldn't notice at all). I'm not sure what else you could do, other than get one solid dowel or something to hang the curtains on instead of an adjustable rod. For me, I've decided to not worry about it now - my rod is in a little-used room and I have about a billion other higher priority decorating issues so I need to start letting some of the small stuff go. Good luck getting your rod fixed!
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I have used many types of anchors over the years, and have totally given up on using the common plastic anchors...they're crap. Now the situation you describe is good, with the top screws going into studs, but I don't know what the weight of your installation is (rod + fabric), or whether the drapes will be opened and closed. Just to be on the safe side, I suggest you use screw anchors. They come in nylon or steel; this type of anchor in nylon is enough for your situation. They are easy to install (self-drilling), their pull-out strength is much greater than the cheapo anchors provided with your rod, and you shouldn't have to worry about them loosening up over time. They are available at any decent hardware store. Below is an example. Here is a link that might be useful: Drywall screw anchor
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Anchor pulled out from wall... repair possible?
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Comments (14)
From the looks of the picture, don't be surprised if this pulls out again - the center area is comprimised and patching compound will not hold up well. It looks like a bit of weight is on this as well. If this repair does fail on you, I would cut out a square of drywall around the area you are securing, place backing plywood behind, and fasten in a new square of drywall in the area. Finish and paint this and then you will have solid plywood behind your drywall to fasten into and you can simply use screws. To get an idea how this patching process works, go to the link below. Here is a link that might be useful: Patching Drywall Holes
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A Mat
last month
Are you able to Google ”toggle bolts”?
ci_lantro
last month
last modified: last month
Rare earth magnets would well for locating hidden fasteners in drywall. $3 for a pack of 10 at Harbor Freight.

Toggler Snaptoggles are the best toggle bolts that I have used. (If you are not fastening into studs.) But you will need to pick up some machine screws in matching diameter & thread size to use with the Snaptoggles. The screws that come with curtain rod hardware won't work with them. (Lowe's stocks Snaptoggles.)
Daniel Fhima thanked ci_lantro
Daniel Fhima
Original Author
last month
last modified: last month
@ci_lantro I'm pretty new to DIY/home repairs, so I apologize if this is a "dumb" question but how do I install one of these without having to punch a hole in the wall that will be wider than the curtain hardware? I wouldn't want it to show the hole.

Also, can I use these in the same place as I originally had that screw/anchor installed?
ci_lantro
last month
The 'washer' face of the 3/16" snaptoggle is 5/8" x 5/8"; the 1/4" is 5/8' x 3/4". So, as long as the bracket is at least the width of the toggle 'washer', it would be hidden. Otherwise, it is quite thin & unobtrusive. Possibly paint to match the wallcolor? Way up next to the ceiling so would likely almost disappear.
A Mat
last month
Yes, you can use a toggle bolt in the existing wall anchor hole, push the white anchor through the sheet rock, insert a toggle bolt.
ci_lantro
last month
Yes, the Toggler Snaptoggles require drilling 1/2" hole. So long as existing hole is 1/2" or less and so long as the back side of the drywall is not massively blown out.
klem1
last month
Danny,Danny,Danny you wear me out. (: Geather hammer ,pliers and the smallest diameter nail you have that is more than 1.50" long. There is two 2x4 stacked behind drywall 1/2 inch deep in wall. Starting in the existing hole gently tap nail in until it either becomes harder to drive or only 1/4 of nail is still visible. If you can't retrive nail with your fingers,use pliers. If nail didn't hit wood ,move up 3/4 inch and try again. When nail hits wood, pull it out and use 1.50 inch or longer screw to mount hardware.
Lorraine Leroux
last month
It looks like the hole is too big for the plug and it has come loose. I like to use what are called Walldriller anchors. They are a plug that has a screw base on it. I find they hold much better and they are larger so they will fill the hole you already have.
jrb451
last month
last modified: last month
EZ Ancor

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