You have condensation on your windows, and as you identify that is a problem. The obvious answer is to remove the moisture and you remove the source of condensation. However every action has unintended consequences. You sufficiently dry that interior air, you will remove the source of condensation. However you may make the house unlivable for you or your partner, and that is an unintended consequence. So exactly what problem got solved? Well at least you dont have condensation ;-). Now lets see if we can understand your situation, and only through understanding can we come up with a workable solution. You like 60% relative humidity in your house, and I would identify that this is plenty high. For reference, I run my dehumidifier to 40% R.H. in summer, and 45% R.H. in winter  I have a very tight house and run supplemental dehumidification year round. Like you, if it gets too dry I tend to have problems, and as I get older I actually prefer more humidity. Now my questions for you are what is the surface temperature of your windows, what window treatments are you using, and what is your target indoor air temperature? Let me illustrate why this information is needed. Assuming you keep your IAT at 70F, and at this temperature the saturation vapor pressure is somewhere around 25mb, so 60% R.H. would have a vapor pressure of around 15mb. At this vapor pressure, if the surface temperature of your windows is cooler than 55F and you donÂt have air moving across those windows, the air next to the windows will cool below the dew point and you get condensation. Now then, drop that R.H. to 45%, and you will get condensation on your windows at 45-50F. Drop it to 25%, get nosebleeds daily, use 3x more skin moisturizer, and be generally miserable, and you can get the surface temperature of that window all the way down to 30-35F before you get condensation. This is only one part of the equation - temperature. Your windows are 11 years old, so I think it is a fair assumption to say that the seals are probably broken so your argon fill is gone (assuming you had it int he first place, and if a spec house probably not). I woke up this morning, it was -5F outside. The place I am has thermally broken aluminum frame high performance gas-filled windows. Now I donÂt care what relative humidity you have inside in this environment you will see condensation if the air is not moving. As Susanka point out, when you put shades or curtains up, you restrict movement of air on the surface of that window, allowing that air to cool to the surface temperature of the glass (and if that surface temperature is below the dew point you get condensation). The easy answer is to remove humidity, but this may not actually buy you much if your glass temperatures are too low. However the less obvious answer is to increase airflow across surface of the window to prevent the air from cooling to the surface temperature of the window, thus eliminating condensation. I think the best answer is a combination. I would reduce the R.H., make sure your window treatments are not restricting airflow across the surface of your windows, and increase air circulation in your house (ceiling fans). And in a new house, I would recommend fiberglass windows  far superior to anything else currently available in the residential market.

I haven't been on this site for a while, so haven't seen any of your earlier posts. When I saw the Hoosier cabinet in your "before" my heart sank and I thought, "Oh, no, they're going to tear out that perfectly lovely cabinet!" I was so happy to see the "after" and how great it looks! The whole kitchen is really nice. Good job.

Gray flooring is very trendy - which means it will become the dreaded "dated". While light gray as a neutral will always be useful, the extreme over use of gray will turn on itself - just as over use of oak did. If this was a cheap laminate gray floor with a limited lifespan - no big deal (except the waste in the landfill) but you had better love this expensive floor 10 years from now when the HGTV crowd will say "yuck - look at all that gray" - just like they say "Yuck, look at all that oak" now. If you will love it, go ahead. I have my oak kitchen which I like just fine. However, a natural wood floor will add color and will go with just about any style thrown at it. It is best if one applies the trendy colors to easily changed surfaces - like paint for walls, decor, curtains, upholstery and even a backsplash if it is not a huge expense. Listen to SJ - she is a flooring expert. The gray, gray rooms just looked washed out - especially when all the new design pics I am seeing are showing color.

I didn't know if it mattered that a larger flange would be sitting above the original position, which is a hair lower than the surrounding surface. As for the moisture accumulating around the edge of the new flange, being that this bath isn't used very often and hasn't been in the 30 years it's been installed, once I begin to notice more wear or discoloration, then it would be time for me to replace the vanity top. The sink looks almost new except for that 1/4" ring of discoloration and hairline cracks around the flange. The original owners of the home had drips and hard water they never took care of. I would just hate to spend upwards of $1200 to replace the vanity top if a $10 flange would do the trick for now.. The vanity itself is wood and in great condition. The size is what makes it a little more costly. It's not a standard size top. Thanks for your help with this!