did they repair the roof well? and electrical work
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What Mid Priced, Electric 16" Bar Chainsaws have worked well
Comments (5)I have serviced at least three 16" electric chainsaws recently but did not put them to a good test vs checking the repair. I'll have a recall (if needed), see which my 16" bars & chins will fit and put them to some Oak/Pecan 12" dia log cutting. I'll also try the 16" bars/chains on my current electric McCullough with a 14" bar that works good. Oops on using spare gas saw's clutches, as the sprockets, bars and chains will be the concerns. I have links to adjust chains. Too many chains are new or almost new that I'll hope will fit as is. I doubt any serviced electric saws were Poulan unless they had a Craftsman name on them. All Craftsman and Remington from what I can remember. Who makes Craftsman 16" electric chainsaws (how can you tell)? One electric saw is due is for a Pit Stop Tomorrow. I'll almost bet it will be "The Usual Of The Chain On Backwards Or Very Dull"!! My friends are not Woodsmen vs BBQing and light trimming. 50% of the repairs (over the yrars) were adapting metal handles to the plastic saws or repairing busted plastic with methylene or ethylene cements....See MoreRepairing holes in plaster from plumbing repair work.
Comments (12)Zenpotter, I would never try to discourage you from repairing your bathroom walls with authentic lime putty, reinforced with horsehair, and smoothed out with a wooden float. My understanding is that 100 per cent lime putty takes about one year to fully cure. Regardless of what type of finish is applied, it will be necessary to fasten some sort of lath, such as wood lath, or wire lath, or rocklath, to the structure of the house. This is generally done with nails. You might have to actually remove more of the original plaster, in some places, to get good access to a wooden beam or stud, in order to securely attach the lath as needed. If you decide to use sheetrock as your backing for finish plaster, then it will be necessary to coat the sheetrock with an adhesive, after it is installed, but before the finish coat plaster is applied. However, if wood lath or wire lath is chosen, then you can apply a modern base coat plaster, pre-mixed. The pre-mix base coat will very likely contain chopped fiberglass to improve its strength, instead of horsehair. Since chopped fiberglass is not so good to breath, you should use come care when mixing this with water, to avoid raising a cloud of dust. Base coat plaster will set up in less than an hour, and can be coated with finish plaster the same day, if necessary. There is no great skill involved in application of base coat plaster. You have to mix it with reasonable care, and press it in place with sufficient force that it penetrates the lath, and binds firmly to the wall or ceiling. It needs to be troweled reasonably flat, and should be slightly below the intended surface plane, so there is some allowance for finish coat plaster. Base-coat does not have to be perfectly flat, or free of tool marks. Finish coat plaster is made from slaked lime and gauging plaster(aka plaster of paris). High quality type S finish lime, made from dolomite limestone, is easy to work with and gives good results. Finish coat plaster application is a learned skill, and not easy to describe in detail. As soon as the plaster is mixed, it begins to set up, and will harden in less than 30 minutes. You have to work fast, and there is a limit to the size, in square feet, that can be done in one mix. If the base-coat plaster is fresh, and still damp, then no misting will be required. If the base-coat has thoroughly dried out, it will rob moisture from the finish coat plaster, and interfere with both application and cure. Misting the base coat with water, before troweling on finish coat, will prevent this problem. If you decide to teach yourself how to apply finish coat plaster, my suggestion is to start with an area around one square foot, for your first trial. With initial success, you will gain confidence, and can begin make larger mixes, and plaster larger areas. The wall doesn't care if it gets plastered in small increments or in one fell swoop....See MoreRepair electrical wire
Comments (3)I don't disagree. As long as the Scotch 700 is wrapped around to the same thickness as the original white jacket you should be fine. I could see someone saying "that black electrical tape on a white conductor signifies a hot wire". In that case white Scotch 700 would be the way to go....See MoreElectrical repair questions
Comments (21)Isn't the center screw on an 2 prong outlet the equivalent of ground/neutral (inside the receptacle they are wired together)? On the 3 prong adapters, you have a prong that comes out of the bottom of the adapter ground lug to attach to this screw for grounding purposes (see link at the bottom for a picture of what I'm talking about). Follow me here...If the plug is wired with reverse polarity, then the center screw is live. The ground wire on a PC screws directly to the metal case of the power supply, which in turn connects to the metal case that connects every other part inside the PC to this ground lug. In this scenario, the case of the power supply (and subsequently the PC) is live. While I will agree that reverse polarity is fine, but only if you were to reverse the 2 wires. With this 3 prong adapter, we have 3 wires reversed: The hot has become neutral, the neutral has become hot, and the ground lead has become hot. This would equate to a direct short in the PC power supply. With a 3 prong receptacle that has been wired in reverse, the hot becomes neutral, the neutral becomes hot, and the ground stays ground. No problem here...PC will still work fine. I disagree that this was coincidence. I have seen many power supplies go, and they can be graceful...but they can also be violent with sparks and even flames. Here is a link that might be useful: Grounding adapter...See Moremillworkman
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