small laundry room storage design?
Ann
2 months ago
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kandrewspa
2 months agoAnn
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Need help with tile style/design in small laundry room
Comments (18)rococogurl thought of that but master bedroom next to laundry room has hickory flooring with rest of house being oak. For me it would be too many wood choices too close together. If that makes sense? The porcelain wood is pretty amazing though....See MoreLaundry room, storage issue
Comments (3)The room is roughly 12x6?!? A guess. The bump out behind the washer n dryer probably leaves floor area totaling 4x5 in front of it. That will b open. Next to the washer (in front of the window) is open 4x6?, then there will be a drying rack along N wall as you wall into room 2x4x4. Havent hat it in there but hoping i make it work in doorway, that is really the only place....See Morelaundry room storage, before and after
Comments (10)Ikea food for thought: Yes, get a laser level if you're doing your own installation. A lot lighter than DH's 4' level. Getting the Sektion rail level and straight is KEY the Blankett handle is its own template. Don't bother with the $2 Fixa template if you're using Blanketts I had originally ordered all 15" Blanketts to make things easy--or so I thought. It was a much easier installation to have handles the same width as the drawers. To do over, I would first try to arrange the fronts on the floor to see if a particular order would look better. This obviously only applies to Askersund. Torham would've been a better style for our house, but it's too busy for me and I couldn't take looking at it all the time. I also almost got Kallarp because I love turquoise and our house is rustic Southwestern, but in the end I thought it would be too dark. The ceiling is almost 9' and originally I was going to try to do some trim between the cabs and ceiling, but the OC (over cabinet) lighting was a far better idea. That's the light (on the dimmest setting) we leave on when we'll be coming home after dark. Because we did the work ourselves, and we're retired, we could take our time. This ended up in putting the cabs a couple of inches lower than planned; DH had first wanted the over-sink cab higher so he would have no remote chance of head bumping but then changed his mind. Whew. We took 10 days-two weeks from start of work to the end, including the garage and laundry cabs. I made sure we did the garage cabs first so we could practice before my laundry cabs lol! We ended up doing the cover panels twice. So, please, first install the UC lighting and THEN do your cover panels! DH had to remove the panels to cut a notch for the new Stromlinje UC lights. I found that I have no patience for fine tuning the cab front looks. I got them to function and well, close enough! So a pro would have done better here, I guess. On the cabs where we knew exactly where the drawers and doors would be, we installed the slides and hinges on the cab sides BEFORE assembling the cab. That way we could have the sides laying flat on the work bench rather than crouching /reaching from odd angles after the cabs are hung. This did make the sides heavier to lift for assembly, especially the 30x90, but worth it. We used a Sears ATV jack (left over from our previous life in dirt bikes) to lift and lower the tall cabs into place. This was especially great for the 30x90 cab, which was too heavy to comfortably lift and was fit into a corner to boot. Well, that's all I can think of for now. Hope this might be helpful to someone....See MoreLaundry Room storage
Comments (1)If possible, I would suggest doing a tall cabinet on the left side (similar to the one on the right side), keeping the ironing board inside, and then centering the washer/dryer under the 2 middle cabinets so things look more symmetrical....See MoreYvonne Martin
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