Anyone have a hose spigot in their garage?
10 months ago
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Coiled hose: Does anyone have one you like?
Comments (5)I came to hate it. I bought it b/c I only had a short distance to water. But it still needed to be stretched to get to the furthest point. It's just like the curly telephone lines (remember those?) after a lot of stretching it inevitably begins to kink. No matter how careful you are about coiling it up, it will begin to take on a life of its own. If its inexpensive and convenient, do it. Just don't expect to get more than two years of "normal" life out of it, if you are watering anything that requires it to be fully stretched out often. It is probably worth $10 or $15 bucks a season. Marie...See MoreAnyone have a Vacuflo TurboGrip Universal Hose?
Comments (5)Thank you, Housefairy. Let me start by saying I ordered my whole system from this Central Vac store four years ago. I got a Beam unit and the hose and attachments were a brand called Imperium. The thing I mostly did not like is that the floor brush did not suck so well on my tile in my kitchen. I don't know why. I had another central vac in another house and I thought the brush that came with it did a better job. Anyway, I've spoken with the people at the CV store and they obviously know what system I have and recommend this Vacuflo brand for my new purchase...so they know what will work as far as the plugs/prongs issue. I just wondered if anyone had this Vacuflo and liked the hose and the floor brushes. It's a bummer not being able to feel, touch or use the items before purchase, but where I live, there are no retailers available. As far as the old hose not working, my hubby is very handy and has taken it apart to diagnose the problem. It appears to be a short that cannot be fixed. The hose still works if you plug it into the outlets, the on/off switch just won't work. For awhile, sometimes it would work, sometimes not....now, not at all. Thank you for your response....I was beginning to give up on hearing from anyone. I might cross post to another forum....maybe new home building???...See MoreImproving water pressure to outside spigot
Comments (15)My preference would be neutralizer (2 in parallel, or one larger)==>iron removal (there are a variety of options - often the best choice is the one your local treatment folks are most familiar with, but I'll post a list of options to consider)==> GAC (you may find it unnecessary with proper iron filtration) ==> softener. Some iron removal options: Softener: You are already living with this method - A softener with specialty resin is capable of removing dissolved iron, up to 7 ppm (mg/L) but asking a softener to remove iron at those upper limits is really pushing it. In addition, a softener will become fouled with particulate iron over time. I don't recommend this method but, in your case only, it has the benefit of already being installed. Oxidation/Filtration: An oxidizer such as ozone, air, or chlorine may be used to react with the iron and force it to become particulate iron that can then be removed via filtration. This will also remove most sulfur compounds. A typical setup would involve the oxidizing unit, a holding tank, then a media filter. This type of system works quite well, but takes some expertise in sizing - you would want a water treatment pro that you trust to help you with this option. Oxidizing filtration media: This type of treatment consists of a sealed tank filled with one of several media. Water passes through and is oxidized and filtered by the media. Most will remove sulfur compounds as well as iron. These are relatively easy to operate and what I would recommend for the average homeowner. There are several different media that can be used: Manganese greensand: water runs through for treatment. The media must be regenerated with potassium permanganate. Care must be taken with dealing with potassium permanganate as it readily dies organic material, such as your skin, a purple-brown color. Some people are quite comfortable dealing with the chemical; others are not. Synthetic greensand: This is essentially the same as option (a) but consists of a coating of greensand on a silica sand core so does not require as much backwash flow. Service flow rate is 2 - 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash flow rate is 12 gpm/sqft. Birm: This media acts as a catalyst to force oxidation of iron. While it does not need to be regenerated, it does need fairly high dissolved oxygen in the water. If your water does not have adequate dissolved oxygen (and it probably doesn't since it is well water), air injection would be necessary prior to the birm. Additionally, birm requires a minimum pH of 6.8. Service flow rate is 3.5 - 5.0 gpm per sqft. Backwash flow rate is 11 - 20 gpm, depending upon water temperatures and desired bed expansion. It is old tech so lots of water treatment pros know how to use it. Pyrolox: an ore that oxidizes then filters the iron out. It does not need regeneration, but needs to be backwashed (to rinse out the iron) at a high rate. pH range is 6.5 - 9.0. This type of filter works very well, but backwash is critical. Service flow rate is 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash is 25-30 gpm/sqft. Backwash daily. Terminox: Similar to Pyrolox, but a proprietary formula . It does not require as much backwash flow rate and is more resistance to a low pH. The particulars are only available from the company that sells it. Backwash daily. Filox: Also similar to Pyrolox. pH range 5.0 - 9.0. Backwash flow 12-15 gpm/sqft. Service flow 6 gpm/sqft. It must be backwashed daily. This one may be a good fit for you as it can take the lower pH. If you choose this option, your treatment order could be: Filox==>Neutralizer==>GAC (maybe)==>softener...See MoreWant to repurpose old garden hose as soaker hose
Comments (5)Could it be your previous soaker hose leaked because it was used without a pressure regulator? Soaker hoses are designed to just "sweat" or slightly ooze water over an extended period of time and are recommended for a water pressure of 25 psi or less. The water pressure in a house or at most hose bibs is 45-60 psi.......running a soaker at that pressure without a regulator is pretty much guaranteed to cause leaks and sprays. Any spray coming from a soaker is a good bet you are not running it properly!! Together with the other bits and bobs you need for your hose conversion, make sure you get a pressure regulator as well. They will be sold in the same area as the hoses and other irrigation supplies....See MoreRelated Professionals
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