Residential make up air system
Scott
3 months ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (19)
Related Discussions
Residential hood liner with integrated make-up air?
Comments (11)I can't answer most of your questions because I don't have any of your designated parts (other than an LD10 silencer). I may have some of the others in the future. CaptiveAire may only do commercial. There is a CaptiveAire hood with what appears to be MUA attached at a glorified hamburger joint in Concord NH. I haven't been right up close to it, but it seemed quiet. With commercial systems, one can get whatever CFM one wants. Also, they usually keep the customer area (not relevant in this case) at higher pressure than the kitchen area. In the image below (from Greenheck's eminently worth reading guide at http://www.greenheck.com/media/pdf/otherinfo/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf ) the MUA appears to be dumping into a perforated ceiling. With respect to your parts combination, however, it looks to me like overkill. The listed insert baffle space appears to be approximately 4 ft x 1 ft, so only 4 square ft entry aperture. At 90 CFM per square foot, that is only 360 CFM required. Scale up depending on various losses and considering that a blown MUA is present, then you couldn't need a blower rated more than 1.5X that, or 540 CFM. Your listed one is specified at 1936 CFM. (I didn't search out the fan curve.) I'd choose that to go with a hood having an entry aperture of 14 sq. ft., e.g., 7 ft x 2 ft, or 6 ft x 28 inches. The actual in situ flow of this impressive blower is likely to be around 1300 CFM. Now, I'm not familiar with your intended range, or how it is configured, or your kitchen layout, but if the range is 4 ft, then ideally a larger than 4 ft insert/hood is called for unless you have deep side cabinets or side curtains on the hood. You are on the right parts trail, only the sizes need to be better tailored for what you intend. In other words, grow the hood or scale down the air transport parts. So please report your stove cooktop dimensions, your intended height to the hood or hood insert, and any restrictions on how large your hood can be. With respect to MUA via toe kick, someone here reported a problem with the air moving across the floor to a nearby cabinet section and rising close to the range, thereby disrupting the plume flow. If toe kick insertion is best for you, try to choose a toe kick area that requires the air to move a significant distance in the room in getting to the hood. Also, the toe kick area needs to be commensurate with the hood area, or you will need a more powerful MUA blower than hood blower to overcome the pressure loss at the toe kick registers/diffusers....See MoreMakeup Air & gas cooktop
Comments (15)Thanks for the data. What we can see from this plot are the following: Above about 2 inches of water column pressure "(inAq)," there is no significant flow. There are no points on the useful part of the curve where there are two flow rates at the same pressure; hence, the blower is stable. At zero pressure loss, i.e., hanging in air no hood, ducts, or MUA restriction, one obtains 715 CFM At our example require flow rate (need to recalculate for your actual aperture) of 540 CFM, the maximum pressure loss that can be tolerated is about 0.8 inches, w.c. So let's go with 36 x 18, or 4.5 sq. ft. In this case, while some of the pans may not have hood over them and thus some of their plume effluent will not be captured, for 90 ft/min, 405 CFM will assure that what is captured is contained. The fan curve shows that this can be obtained at 1.4 inches, w.c. We don't know what the pressure loss of the baffles is vs. flow rate, but assuming some things about Wolf data I have and guessing, I would suggest we use 0.6 inches at 405 CFM for now. This allows us to allocate 1.4 - 0.6 = 0.8 inches for hood duct, MUA duct, and MUA filter. If the dominating remaining pressure loss is the MUA filter, I can refer you to the following snippet, where various filters of different thickness (this is pleat thickness, not surface thickness) are listed vs. pressure loss at different flow rates. The flow rate for this case is 405 (CFM) divided by the filter area (sq. ft.). Even a mere square foot of filter should be tolerated in the MUA system based on this information. I would recommend, if space allows, a filter box (caddy) that holds a standard filter. The MUA duct would be transitioned to the filter box, which could be connected to a diffuser in the kitchen ceiling, among other possible schemes. Don't blow the air right at the hood unless it is fairly distant (a low multiple of the ceiling height). Remaining allowable air pressure loss can then be allocated to the ducts, wall caps, dampers, etc., which I think is conservative. So while we can conclude that this might work, schemes for heating the air, if required or desired may force use of an active system due to increased resistance of the duct length and of the heating scheme. Another conclusion from this exercise is that if you were to go to a larger hood for better capture, a more powerful blower (with a fan curve above and to the right of the one you provided) will be needed....See MoreChoosing a Make Up Air system for a 1959 house
Comments (0)I have a 1959 house in Gainesville, Florida. I am buying a 30" induction cooktop on an island. I am looking either for a hood or a downdraft system, maybe Captura Best, but I think I am gonna go the healthier way (a hood). I have these questions: 1) I think I want to have a Make Up AIR system (MUAs) even if I choose a 400 CFU unit. Although in Florida I can probably go up to 800 CFU, cause I think I have no "gravity vent appliances" (no fireplace and no gas, I will double check with my HVAC if the furnace in the heat pump heating/cooling system is an issue) I still think its better to have the MUAs and not to draw air from gaps and crawl space (where I actually have a Radon vent to vent it outside). Besides the obvious better performance of the hood compared to downdraft to remove fumes, is there a difference in how I should design the MUA system given the CFUs (e.g., is the MUAs design and cost the same for a 400 CFU downdraft or a 400 CFU hood)? 2) I have no ERV system. Can I buy an ERV system that has an embedded MUAs, or it does not make much sense (Spurpura on this post says that she has one, she says "high-end ERV systems (including a mix of other parts and computer and analog controls) can control the mix of indoor and outdoor air on the fly. Under sealed home conditions, this would result in positive, negative, or neutral pressurization for the home. When the vent hood is taken into consideration (providing a source of negative pressurization for the home), the ERV system can be set to mix more outdoor with indoor air to achieve positive/negative/neutral pressurization (as desired)."). 3) assuming that a ERV with embedded MUA is a bad idea since my house might not be sealed (how to test?), where should the MUAs air enter my open space kitchen/family room area? 4) Is a silencer needed for the MUA? 5) What is the best way to activate the MUA once I turn on the hood?...See Morehow do you like your Electro Industries make up air system?
Comments (2)I've got an Electro Industires unit sitting on my living room floor....does that count? It is going to go in the attic and like you the Fantech would not have fit. Having a lot of trouble getting someone to put it in (small town, labor shortages etc). They are "supposed" to come next week so we will see.... I agree, not too many reviews at all! Will keep you posted....See Moremike_home
3 months agoCharles Ross Homes
3 months agoScott
3 months agoScott
3 months agoT T
3 months agoCharles Ross Homes
3 months agomike_home
3 months agoScott
3 months agomike_home
3 months agoScott
3 months agoScott
3 months agokaseki
3 months agoCharles Ross Homes
3 months agomike_home
3 months agolast modified: 3 months ago
Related Stories
ARCHITECTUREKnow Your House: What Makes Up a Home's Foundation
Learn the components of a common foundation and their purpose to ensure a strong and stable house for years to come
Full StoryKNOW YOUR HOUSEKnow Your House: What Makes Up a Floor Structure
Avoid cracks, squeaks and defects in your home's flooring by understanding the components — diagrams included
Full StoryREMODELING GUIDESWake Up Rooms With the Power of Fresh Air
Even the trendiest interior designs can feel stale when your home is in permanent lockdown. Look to windows and doors for the solution
Full StoryPATIOSPatio Details: See What Makes Up This Outdoor Room in Houston
Want to get the look of this patio and outdoor kitchen? Here's the lowdown on design, materials and costs
Full StoryTHE ART OF ARCHITECTUREArchitect's Toolbox: Rain Screens Up House Health
To thwart unwanted moisture and poor air quality in your home, think rain screens and drainage planes
Full StoryBATHROOM DESIGNSmall-Bathroom Secret: Free Up Space With a Wall-Mounted Sink
Make a tiny bath or powder room feel more spacious by swapping a clunky vanity for a pared-down basin off the floor
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGNKitchen of the Week: Traditional Kitchen Opens Up for a Fresh Look
A glass wall system, a multifunctional island and contemporary finishes update a family’s Illinois kitchen
Full StoryHEALTHY HOMEA Guide to Indoor Air Purifiers
Get the lowdown on air filtration systems for your house and the important ratings to look out for
Full StoryBATHROOM DESIGNWarm Up Your Bathroom With Heated Floors
If your bathroom floor is leaving you cold, try warming up to an electric heating system
Full StoryGARDENING AND LANDSCAPING11 Ways to Make Your Sleeping Porch Even Better
Turn off that air conditioner and tune in to the delights of slumbering in the nighttime breeze
Full Story
DeWayne