Hi, I've made a few of these pvc structures. I drilled a small hole through the joint+pipe and added a bolt. Wood or sheet metal screws can work as well. I've also just drilled a hole and used heavy duty zip ties to lash pipes together. The structure is going to shift a bit in the wind so it helps to reinforce the joints with something that allows it to flex. Anyway it's good to have a backup in case the glue doesn't do the trick. I use a rubber mallet to pound the pipes into the connectors. Sometimes just twisting them isn't enough. Transparent duct tape is useful for attatching the plastic sheeting to the pipes. It sticks well to both the pipes and the plastic. It's much more durable in the sunlight because it's transparent. I'd also recommend lashing a couple 2x2 wood beams to the top horizontal piping. Or wherever else you need them. Get lightweight but strong ones for extra structural reinforcement. Paint them white. I get a lot of heavy snow here. Maybe you don't need them there. Have fun :-)

ok. I realize there's a markup on materials for time and labor involved in procuring the materials, however, in the industry I'm familiar with (heavy civil) mark up on materials is generally 10%. That's why I was asking here as I have no experience in residential plumbing and thought that the 200-300% markup seemed steep. But, if that's the norm, then that's the norm. The total materials cost between pvc, pex, and copper came to $500. I was just listing some examples off the parts list. So now, if there's about $150 retail worth of parts, that's a $350 markup, and the time from when the plumber left the house, went to Home Depot or where ever, and returned was 45 minutes, then yes, I'd much rather pay him his hourly rate to run to Home Depot to get extra parts that I may have forgotten to procure. There's no doubt that there are different mark ups on materials for different industries, and like I said, I'm unfamiliar with residential plumbing and what I paid is so far off of the 10% I'm used to, so that's why I asked. As long as it's in line with industry standards, I'm fine with it. Also, the plumber said it was an easy job, between $750 to $950. Of course, I was hoping for $750 and asked if he would do a 'not to exceed' contract of $950, which he did. I was just a little suspicious that the contract was maxed, again why I was asking here. I may be doing projects in the future and just wanted to make sure these numbers were legit so I'll feel comfortable asking the same outfit back if the need arises. Thanks for your replies.

If that sleeve after the 45 is threaded,remove the sleeve and see if a piece of 1&1/2 drain tube slides inside the threaded female fitting. If it will,you can make the connection useing a 1&1/2 washer and nut like connects copper tube to trap in picture. If those are solvent welded,cut the dwv pipe between 45 and coupling close to that coupling leaving enough dwv to solvent weld or rubber sleeve clamp a 1&1/2 female coupling and proceed as above. MAKE CERTAIN THE SINK DRAIN WILL SLIDE INSIDE COUPLING BEFORE APPLYING SOLVENT. Try the fit at store because some fpt are too small for drain to slide into.

You could hook a water hose timer up inline. I would think that it would have adequate flow for a 3/4 inch pipe. What I would recommend using instead if you are worried about flow is a solenoid valve and irrigation controller. There are controllers that use batteries .