Jay,
Sorry to read about your tribulations. Having built many pvc high tunnels, I have had some of the same problems you have experienced, but not all at the same time. Some thoughts about problems that have occured on some of my projects: The glue should be fairly new and not have been opened some time ago. The solvent is very easily dissipated. The primer used before the glue is important and should be the one that is recommended for the glue. The angle of attachment cannot be extreme. It is better to prime and glue before bending down if possible. At temps. below about 60 deg., the glue takes much longer to set.
Finally, if you can eliminate all of the problems that I have experienced before, the bolting idea may well be a good idea.

i know you said you worked with pvc all your life but did you use a pvc cleaner before the glue? you need to get the glaze off for the glue to bond the pvc together. what size pvc are you using? some glues are only good for a certain diameter pipe.

Since pvc pipe has not existed my whole life, I don't think I said I have worked with it that long. However, we do not use a pvc cleaner and have not had any problems because of that. The pipe sizes we have used have varied, depending on what was available, from 3/4 to 1 1/4. The best seems to be one inch, schedule 40. The availability of the fitting sizes has also been a problem in some places and determined the pipe size we could use. We also use the primer and glue that is available, but the "purple" primer and "blue" glue has worked well when available. The biggest problems have been when sch.40 was not for sale and we tried to use something thinner. That definitely does not work well.

This might be a stupid question but are you using the correct glue for the type of pipe? Sometimes its pretty easy to pick up the wrong kind although I think they now have generic one-type for all kinds of plastics.

Just a thought.....

Regards,

Tom

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I am cleaning the pipe. I am using the correct pvc glue. I did start with some older glue, but after the first one popped, I went and bought new glue. I am glad the nearest store is only 3 miles away! I thought about that first.

I am using Schedule 40, 1 inch pipe. I am not bending it too extreme, I don't think. The building is 12 foot 4 inches wide. All the university publications say 20 foot pipe, 12-14 foot wide building.

Yesterday, It was close around 65-68 outside. I glued up the rest of the pieces and called it a night. Today is suppose to be near 70! I am going to try to put them up today with the help of my wife. I hope together, we can do it.

Hi,
I've made a few of these pvc structures. I drilled a small hole through the joint+pipe and added a bolt. Wood or sheet metal screws can work as well. I've also just drilled a hole and used heavy duty zip ties to lash pipes together. The structure is going to shift a bit in the wind so it helps to reinforce the joints with something that allows it to flex. Anyway it's good to have a backup in case the glue doesn't do the trick. I use a rubber mallet to pound the pipes into the connectors. Sometimes just twisting them isn't enough.

Transparent duct tape is useful for attatching the plastic sheeting to the pipes. It sticks well to both the pipes and the plastic. It's much more durable in the sunlight because it's transparent.

I'd also recommend lashing a couple 2x2 wood beams to the top horizontal piping. Or wherever else you need them. Get lightweight but strong ones for extra structural reinforcement. Paint them white. I get a lot of heavy snow here. Maybe you don't need them there.

Have fun :-)

Assuming that you are using the right glue and primer, there are only two other things i can tink of.

- The plastic you are using is faulty (this could apply to the T's that broke)

- you are applying too much glue or primer. This seems to fit both scenarios... To much could weaken the T - especially if there is stress on it. Those things are not really meant to hold stress. It would also fit the fact that the coupler popped out. I have never seen a joint let go unless i used too much or too little glue. Too much and it will take a long time to set. Adding stress would pull the pipe out.

When you insert the pipe, by the time you set it fully in and give it the ol' 1/4 turn... give it 30 seconds to set and you shouln't be able to phyically twist that sucker any more no matter how hard you try. If you can, cut back on the amount of glue.

Good luck!

IT IS FINISHED! Plastic on, ends finished and door attached.

After letting the connections sit for almost two days and using new glue and cleaner, attaching the 5 feet to the ends, the structure is complete! The pipes went right in and I didn't have a problem.

Thank you for everyones ideas. I will post my pictures as soon as I take a picture.

I ran out of sunlight to take one tonight!

One down, one more to put the plastic on!