Cabinets in, need advice on minor damage noted
2 years ago
They just finished installing my cabinets. I was supposed to pay them for the rest of what was owed but there are two places in the island that are damaged. One of the installers thinks it's no big deal, said the crack in the corner was normal. The veneer is damaged and could peel off leaving an obvious piece out. He said you wouldn't be able to see it once the counter was on but cleaning it I feel could make it peel off and then it would be noticed, maybe only by me but still.
I tried calling the cabinet maker but he's out in the field cutting hay. The installers took pictures and I guess I'll wait to see what he says. They weren't happy that I didn't pay them. They also broke my stove outlet by dropping a nail gun on it. They did go buy a new one but that means I have to have someone fix it before I can use my stove now. He did give me his card and said he would pay me for the work.
So, would you be worried about this damage (will post pictures). Or should I just pay him and hope the counter gluing will take care of it?
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Minor problems to correct this fall, advice?
Comments (12)I am hoping a couple of gents who lurk this board and I have used to learn organics jump in (morph and andy) and correct me if I am off base. Building "organic matter" is a marathon, not a sprint. It's not going to happen overnight. Mulching leaves is a great start. You can't really over do it. The other is adding a good compost, but obviously more costly and physically harder. The alfalfa, soy, corn, etc. feed the microherd, but don't necessarily increase the organic matter. A good alfalfa feeding would be about 20lbs per 1K sq. ft. it has a growth hormone, but is very low in NPK. Soybean meal, milorganite, feather meal have higher NPK. I mulch leaves and by the time this season is over, I will have put down 800lbs of miloranite (mostly for the iron), 100lbs of feather meal, 400lbs of alfalfa, 250lbs of soybean, 300lbs of cracked corn on 11K sq. ft. After this year, I would be thrilled to have a jump in the organic matter of "point" something (I did about the same last year and my OM went from 5.44 to 5.49). It really comes down to what your wallet can take. One last thing, I would suggest getting a soil test which gives you your present organic matter, as well as other deficiencies. Check out Logan Labs which cost $25....See MoreNeed a cliff note version re: FL, HE detergents & suds
Comments (5)I have a Frigidaire Affinity so maybe I can help too. 1) Am I supposed to be seeing suds? How many suds are too many? What should I do - cut down on the amt of detergent until I don't see suds anymore? It is okay to see some suds during the wash cycle. You should only be seeing a trickle amount at the very bottom of the door. No more than a very small handful of suds. 2) Can I still pretreat stains with shout or lestoil? Will either of those cause suds or damage the machine? As long as you do not use too much you should be okay. However, if you are concerned you can mix up your own in a spray bottle with the HE detergent you are using and water. (I recommend an HE detergent with enzymes for this.) For instance, you would put the maximum amount of measured detergent into a 32 oz spray bottle and fill the rest of the way with water. 3) If I want to use oxiclean, where do I put it? (Frigidiare Affinity with no prewash dispenser) I usually add oxi clean to the detergent dispenser. If I am using powder detergent I just put it with the detergent, if washing with hot water. If I am using liquid I disolve it in a bowl or cup first and then put it in. 4) Is it ok to use vinegar in the fabric softener dispenser? This was a habit I got into with my last machine, which didn't clean or rinse worth a darn. I felt that the vinegar gave the rinsing a boost but I'm not sure whether it's necessary in the new machine. I add vinegar all the time. I usually put it in the bleach dispenser and the fab dispenser if needed. I have had no probs. 5) What kind of detergent is better, liquid or powder? If it matters, I have a whole-house water softener and generally do most of my washes in ATC cold (65 degrees, I believe). I do not normally use bleach or fabric softener but do put vinegar in the fabric softener dispenser (unless you all say I shouldn't). I've always used liquid, but am thinking that if I'm using such small amounts, it might be easier to just keep a canister of powder out on the machine and measure by the tablespoon. I prefer powder, but I have found I have to predissolve it in warm water if doing a cold or warm water wash. Otherwise the powder doesn't seem to be fully dissolved until right before the rinse kicks in. I am going to eventually switch to liquids once my powder is gone to prevent the hassle. 6) When I was doing the research, I read something about Frigemore machines having an issue with powder detergent (I think they indicated that powdered HE detergent contributed to the bearing failure) - is this true? If any washing machine has aluminum parts, powder detergents can cause problems. Most powder detergents have sodium carbonate and that will slowly eat away aluminum. 7) Is there a particular brand of HE detergent that works better in softened well water, especially for cold-water washes? I have always used Tide before this but read some bad reviews on the Tide HE liquid, so that's why I bought the sears stuff (plus it was on sale for half price, LOL!) I know a lot of this has to do with your individual water chemistry, but if you've had experiences (good/bad) with any detergent, I'd love to hear them. Please only stuff that is available fairly easily in the US - my husband would probably have me locked up if I told him I wanted to mail-order detergent from the UK. I was one of those who complained about the Tide Liquid HE. I have hard water, about 8 to 10 grains to be exact. It didn't over suds, but it would never completely rinse out either. No matter what, I would see suds develope during the final spin cycle on the door window and my clothes got harder and harder with each wash if I didn't use fab softener. I also had to make sure I put my washer through a wash/maitenence cycle once a week to get rid of detergent build up. It isn't the detergents fault really except for the fact P&G has not caught up with these new "Add A Garment" HE machines. They use even way less water than traditional HE machines. So far the detergents that I have tried that seem to be okay as far as sudsing and rinsing go are.... 1)Tide HE powder cut back to smaller amounts(draw back is the sodium carbonate and the pre disolving) 2)Sears Powder HE (drawback is the predisolving and sodium carbonate) 3)Charlie's Soap Powder (drawback predissolving, but they do offer a liquid version. It also has sodium carbonate, but the amount used is really minimal) 4)Mela Power HE liquid (drawback is you have to go to melaleuca.com and become a member to order it) 5)Homemade liquid detergent minus or with reduced sodium carbonate(washing soda). In the homemade recipe I cut the amount of washing soda in half and then made up for it in borax. Borax is a natural anti redepositing agent and you need more of that than the other due to the low water usage. 6)All Free and Clear HE liquid(drawback is it still leaves a little suds but no where near as bad as Tide and what is left behind doesn't irritate the skin. However, pretreatment of stains is definitely needed. At least you can find it at any store which is a plus. In the end, if the Sears HE liquid is working for you and you can still get it, why change. No sense in fixing what isn't broke. Otherwise it will be trial and error as different people's needs determine ultimately what they will like from a detergent. I hope this helped at least a little. :)...See MoreNeed help with colors and minor decor suggestions!
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Comments (10)My intentions are to just take a hammer and bust the current pot. I have done bonsai for two years...I'm not sure if I will be finding roots that need pruned...or needing work. I was told this cactus has NEVER been repotted. It's been in this pot from day one they owned it. Over 20+ years as they discussed what house they lived in when they got it. It is currently in a 12" pot...thinking going to 14" or should maybe it be larger...just something that will fit on the stand it's currently on? Previous us owners said to make cuttings to mix sand and potting soil half and half and stick the cutting into that mix. So...I am assuming that would be the same mix to repot into? Or no? I am not looking for cuttings and finding more area to house a cactus. My currant area has my tropical bonsai and I have allowed for those to grow and develop so I have no space for more cactus. I did send a 14" piece off to Florida to a bonsai aquanitence/friend who has a cactus garden of a piece that got damaged and fell over from its upright place in the pot. It had that lignified look to the lower end as well....See More- 2 years ago
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2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoKathsgrdn thanked raee_gw zone 5b-6a Ohio
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