I took my plant out and cut some of its root until they were white and covered the roots with some cinnamon as I don’t have the anti infection root medicine/powder. The plant has been shedding leaves and this is how it looks. It’s been a day and it’s been drying like this. The bottom part of the stem looks wet but it still feels hard.what should I do next. Leave it dry like this for some more time or repot it in the new soil? I waters it last Saturday a week ago so whene should I water it. The bottom looks wet so should I cut the stem from the bottom to stop the rotting or will be the plant do fine without doing it? It’s only the bottom now that looks like it’s holding water and is wet. Pls tell me what should I do? Should I propagate the stem. What do you think about the success rate of the plant to live or it’s late. If it’s late Ashokji I propagate the food stems and cuttings. Will the rotting continue upward or will it stop moving up in some days. If it won’t stop I can cut the stem where it feels fine and shows no symptom of rotting . Will this option help or doing nothing will stop the rotting going up. The roots now are hard looks white on the inside and outside both. The second photo shows till where it looks wet but still feels hard. Pls reply so that if something had to be I can do it right away as I don’t want to late.

To echo Rina, needing less water doesn't mean to water in sips, though I can see how people could take it that way. When soil is moist, the plant drinks up all it can. When soil dries out, the roots grow in search of moisture(a good thing). When soil is dry and you water it, at first the soil resists water. Thus, to 1. water it until it runs out the bottom then 2. wait a few minutes, then repeat that cycle two more times, you ensure that all the soil in the root ball actually gets wet. The wait time depends on how long the soil holds on to water. There are several factors that go into how fast the water left in the soil evaporates, so you have to evaluate dryness each time before you water. If it were mine, I would prune it back significantly and try to find a better lighting situation. By significantly I mean in this case about 6 inches off each branch. This allows for increased branching, and gives the main branches time to harden off and be more resistant to flopping in the future. I assume that by saying the leaves are mushy, you mean they are dehydrated, floppy, flattened. Is that true? I have never seen rot in the leaves and not in the trunk, so rot seems unlikely in this case. Keep in mind that it is MUCH harder to kill a jade with dry conditions than with wet. Which brings us full circle back to Rina's question about well-draining mix... ez

What's the bulb's wattage, and is it soft white or bright white? Most plants need a brightness of 100W or brighter, and the light frequency has to be 5000k-6500k. Bright white bulbs are very white, even bluish, while soft white bulbs gives off yellowish light that doesn't do much if anything for plants. The numbers should be on the bulb's box or somewhere on the bulb itself, though you may have to look on the manufacturer's website or even ask them. As for effectiveness, a combination of CFL and LED 100W, 5000k bulbs for about 14 hours a day had had a big impact on my little collection of light-loving plants (I get very little natural light in fall and winter). Some of them had stopped growing and a few really neglected ones were dropping leaves like crazy. Some of the improvement was from getting rid of spider mites, but I credit the supplemental light with the major flush of new growth. Get a cheap grocery store timer for your light so you don't have to think about turning it on and off. Good luck; it looks like a nice little plant!

I agree with Steven. The plant shouldn't be allowed to go dry. While under-watering is in most cases less limiting than over-watering, under-watering (allowing the soil to go dry before watering) does create drought stress. Stress is limiting because it forces the plant to grow at or near the limits it's been programmed to tolerate. Water when the soil is nearly but not quite dry. FWIW, I water my portulacarias exactly as I water my other plants, summer and winter, but I do use a very open soil. Al